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Posted

Hey Brendan, These 2 parts are the same as the Chevelles. I would try The Parts Place first. If you can take the headlight switch out first and count the terminals, this way you can tell them exactly what you need, I think usually 7 or 8.  if you cant get them from TPP you can try SS396.com they should have what you need.

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Posted

I got my replacement fuse box from American Auto Wire. It is an exact replacement with the glass fuses and correct labeling. 

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Posted

@willie, ok thanks for that info.  I ordered the switch linked below from OPGI before seeing your comment.  Kind of a fingers-crossed thing.  I was ordering a bunch of other small stuff and threw it into the cart.  I will definitely check out The Parts Place and SS396 as needed.  Thank you for that.

https://www.opgi.com/interior-accessories/dash-accessories/1964-77-headlight-switch/switch-headlight-1961-74-reproduction-8-pin-KR20063.html

@Dtret, checking out American Auto Wire now ... thanks! Hmmmm, I dont see the fuse block available on their site.  Do you have a direct link for it?

 

 

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Posted

I got my headlight switch at a "Partsource"... Auto Value (or any auto parts store) will have them to.  (p.n. HLS6)

But as Kevin mentioned, there are only 6 connections on the aftermarket ones... There is a whole discussion on site regarding that.  ;)

As for the fuse box, that's something I'd go to an automotive electrical specialty shop for. 

OR...

Ordering a complete wiring harness can include the fuse box. 

Like I said, if you're going to go that deep into it, and you believe your electrical is that far gone, that might be the better option.

It also depends on your knowledge and patience when dealing with wires......... Hooking a new fuse box to existing wiring can be done, it's just a question of time and space. ;) 

 

 

 

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Posted

My lights were out too, luckily it was an easy fix , I paid my electric bill 💵 😫

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Posted

@Scott S., thanks for that info.  Yeah, I see the HLS6 part available through OReillys, and the picture looks to show 6 connections.  But I will have to search and read through the 6 connection problem.  Who knows if I will end up reinventing the wheel on that one!  As mentioned above I have what looks to be the same switch on order from OPGI.  We shall see.

Roger that on the wiring harness suggestion.  Yes, I will definitely end up there.  And you're right, might as well wait on the fuse panel (i definitely can wait) and make it part of a full wiring harness replacement.  I hadnt tied those 2 together in my mind, so thanks for that.  In general I'm good enough with 12VDC wiring that I can figure out just about anything on these old cars and hack my way to victory.  I also mentioned earlier that I may just feed that LPS fuse from a switched source.  That would turn the dash lights on any time I turn the key on, but that may not be an issue.  And how's that for a hack?!?!?! :)

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Posted

Seriously tho, my dimmer switch was bad er, potentiometer on the headlight switch ..…

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Posted
2 minutes ago, Ron Tevis said:

Seriously tho, my dimmer switch was bad …

Are you running a ceiling fan on that switch ????  lol

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Posted
1 minute ago, Ron Tevis said:

Seriously tho, my dimmer switch was bad …

@Ron Tevis, so it was the dimmer rheostat within the headlight switch you mean?  And you replaced the whole headlight switch?  Do you definitely have to drop the dash to replace the headlight switch? 

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Posted
Just now, B-Man said:

@Ron Tevis, so it was the dimmer rheostat within the headlight switch you mean?  And you replaced the whole headlight switch?  Do you definitely have to drop the dash to replace the headlight switch? 

Yup....

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Posted

Brendan,

If I remember right, the seventh contact is an extra ground point. 

Because Montelishi's previous owner had been under the dash, I had to splice the under dash courtesy ground into the common ground wire for the dash ground. (thin light grey/white)

I've read that '71-'72 wiring is different from my '70 though. 

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Posted
8 minutes ago, Scott S. said:

Yup....

As for dropping the dash, no...

I pulled the driver's seat for access. but it can be reached from below. 

You will need a large, thin flathead screwdriver to unscrew it from the dash..... There is a special tool made for this. ;)

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Posted
19 minutes ago, Scott S. said:

As for dropping the dash, no...

I pulled the driver's seat for access. but it can be reached from below. 

You will need a large, thin flathead screwdriver to unscrew it from the dash..... There is a special tool made for this. ;)

Ok @Scott S., I will bite ... show me your tool!!! :) Haha.  Seriously, this sounds awful.  I've spent a lot of time under there in the last few days dealing with the power window and power door lock conversion (see other post).  I dont see removal from below being possible, but I'm sure you're right.  I do have the dash pad off right now.  It looked like I cand remove the speaker (needs to go anyway) that's right there and improve access further.  So maybe I can get at it from up top with the dash pad and speaker removed.

Seriously though, if there's a 'special tool', what is it?

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Posted

headlight1.jpg.4b087a6382aa5d94323206972327f4ca.jpgBrendan... Did some digging.

headlight.thumb.jpg.ab4cbf4f9538a64cf49615574f5f9183.jpg

Found this in an old post....

First, to remove the switch, you have to pull the knob.... seriously. ;)

To do that, you have to find the spring loaded button on the side of the switch, push it it, and pull the knob out.

Once it's out of the way, you see through the dash (from the front) what looks like a 1" dia. slotted washer.

You have to unscrew this with the big flathead, then the switch will be removable from behind. the "special tool" is notched in the center, that's really all that makes it "special". lol

switch the harness and reverse to re install...

I know, in the right frame of mind, this all reads like a bad Pornhub script... :k

Hope it makes sense...

 

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Posted

Spring loaded button on my 71 Monte Carlo:

It is very small.

IMG_0320.thumb.JPG.5cf51fb239b0b594f2e744a58f82a708.JPG

 

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Posted

Yep, just push and hold the tiny button and pull out the headlight knob and shaft.

To reinstall, just push the shaft and knob assembly back into the switch.

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Posted
5 minutes ago, stangeba said:

Yep, just push and hold the tiny button and pull out the headlight knob and shaft.

To reinstall, just push the shaft and knob assembly back into the switch.

Goes in easier if you push in the button when you re install. 

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Posted
4 hours ago, B-Man said:

@willie, ok thanks for that info.  I ordered the switch linked below from OPGI before seeing your comment.  Kind of a fingers-crossed thing.  I was ordering a bunch of other small stuff and threw it into the cart.  I will definitely check out The Parts Place and SS396 as needed.  Thank you for that.

https://www.opgi.com/interior-accessories/dash-accessories/1964-77-headlight-switch/switch-headlight-1961-74-reproduction-8-pin-KR20063.html

@Dtret, checking out American Auto Wire now ... thanks! Hmmmm, I dont see the fuse block available on their site.  Do you have a direct link for it?

 

 

I had to call. They show nothing on their site. 

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Posted

@Dtret, got it thanks. Another member recommended getting a new fuse box as part of a new harness. Or maybe that was you. That might be route, and just make it work for now. Thanks for the info though. Very helpful 

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Posted
22 hours ago, B-Man said:

@Ron Tevis, so it was the dimmer rheostat within the headlight switch you mean?  And you replaced the whole headlight switch?  Do you definitely have to drop the dash to replace the headlight switch? 

I’m sure Scott’s method is better if you have the right tools to do it that way, me, I improvise, I can have the dash pad off and the steering column down and the gage panel tilted in nothing flat. Had to do it so many times ect ect.. 

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Posted
2 hours ago, Ron Tevis said:

I’m sure Scott’s method is better if you have the right tools to do it that way, me, I improvise, I can have the dash pad off and the steering column down and the gage panel tilted in nothing flat. Had to do it so many times ect ect.. 

I just like to be comfortable if I'm going to deal with confusion.  ;) 

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Posted
22 hours ago, Dtret said:

I had to call. They show nothing on their site. 

I found it listed under "Chevelle". 

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Posted
On 1/21/2025 at 2:04 PM, Ron Tevis said:

I’m sure Scott’s method is better if you have the right tools to do it that way, me, I improvise, I can have the dash pad off and the steering column down and the gage panel tilted in nothing flat. Had to do it so many times ect ect.. 

Well @Ron Tevis, remember that dream of visiting Groton CT - Submarine Capital of the World?!?!?!?  Well now is your chance!  AND, you get to show me how to get the gauge panel tilted "in nothing flat"!!!!  A long time dream and bucket list item, hahahahah :).

Seriously though, I have the dash pad off and have watched a few YouTube videos.  So I'm pretty much there, right?  I guess I should just go ahead and do it and make my life easier.  I do want to replace all of the dash bulbs and ducting too.  And whatever else a PO might have messed with. And the scope creep keeps creeping, dang!

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