montefrazer
-
Posts
245 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by montefrazer
-
-
It's there. Shorter than the other fuses. Very little glass between the metal ends.
-
Congrats from me, too. Do you have any plans on going to Jefferson swap meet and show in April?
-
Thanks for the quick reply.
-
Up here in the rust belt, Wisconsin, a sawzall with a good blade works great. Quick and easy. New bolts for the new bushings.
-
I've known of it on other cars, but never knew it was an option on ours.
I had a 70 with that option. Bucket seats but no console. Does anyone know if it was available on a bench seat?
-
First place I woud look is the brass strip that is just above the motor. Make sure it's there and not tucked under the washer assembly. It should be clean and have a mounting bolt through it and the washer assembly. Easy to get it under the washer when putting a new one on.
-
I did that same 70 Chevelle bumper swap on my first 71 Monte back in the late 70s. Very few people noticed.
-
Also look at Jim Osborn Reproductions. Have bought many from him over the years. This link goes to the A body list,
but he carries decals for almost anything.
-
left over 70 parts
Not likely. February was just over half way through the 1971 build cycle that started in August of 1970 for September new car showroom debut.
-
If it's too bad for the steel wool, eastwood has a polishing kit. http://www.eastwood.com/autobody/plastic-glass-repair.html
-
Measured a spare I have. Tank alone is 13 1/2 inches.Compressor alone is 4 inches.Tank with pump is 17 1/2. Both measured to end of the mounting point on the tank. Close enough to 17 3/4 for my eyeball and tape measure check. Where in WI are you?
-
They are the same on my '70s - even the color.
I know of one eBay seller who likes to advertise common parts as "SS" parts because he apparently thinks they will see quicker or for a higher price. Not sure how wide-spread that thinking or practice may be ...
They are the same 70-72 and even from a 70-72 Chevelle.
A very common practice from my experience. At the swap meets I go to, every Chevelle part is for an SS, every Pontiac part is for a GTO, etc. Buyer beware.
-
Your link needs a log in so can't look at the pictures. Just a thought. If it is a non factory splice, it could be trailer wireing. Did the car have a hitch?
-
You would need to wire power and a switch to the connections on the tranny. Then use it turn converter lock on and off.
-
The lock up trans is just a Tubo 350 with a lock up converter. It was called the 350 C.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbo-Hydramatic
"Around 1980, a lock-up torque converter was introduced; this transmission was phased out in 1984 in GM passenger cars for the 700R4. Chevrolet/GMC trucks and vans used the THM350-C until 1986. The lock-up torque converter was deemed unpopular with transmission builders — B&M Racing once marketed a conversion kit for THM350-Cs during the early 1980s until the advent of high-stall lock-up torque converters when its overdrive counterpart (THM700R4/4L60) were modified. The standard TH350 is still very popular in drag racing."
If you put it all together and wire it to work, you will get a little better highway MPG. Just remember to unlock it when you stop or it will stop the engine because there will be no converter slip. I had this tranny in an 82 Caprice.
-
The original one in my SS is cad plated and the 3 used ones I've bought over the years were also cad plated. I have seen some pictures of black painted ones that claim to be original, even NOS, but haven't seen one in real life to compare.
-
I put an inline tester in two of the wires and had a good spark on both. i cracked the fuel line at the filter and there is plenty of fuel there but the filter had a bunch of junk in it. I changed it when I changed the fuel pump so it was clean on the first crank. It doesn't seem to be spraying fuel in the carb so we will try again when he gets a filter and I get time.
Have him pick up more than one. Since it plugged up one that fast, it will probably plug up more.
-
I bought a little kit at my Chevy dealer several years ago. It was $4.95 Two wires hooked up to a buzzer. Pretty simple install. One lead goes to the inst lamps fuse and the other you use a test lead to find a circuit that goes dead when IGN is turned off. Buzzer stays off if lights are on and IGN is on, when lights are on and IGN off, the buzzer sounds.
Did this job myself with an old seat belt buzzer. Parts needed: buzzer, wire, two fuse taps, four crimp on ends, one wire tie, and a test light.
-
MUCH better turning and cornering. Minimizes the rear body roll. Does the same thing for the rear that the front one does for the front.
-
The brake switch with cruise has an extra set of terminals for part of the cruise wiring to plug to but he is talking about a seperate vacuum switch mounted above the brake switch. Since you have cruise, you can look in your car and see both switches. Not many came with cruise.
-
"Some cars in California and even Pheonix for what ever reason got Rear Defrost..??? I can see up in Canada for sure or even New York. its like haveing A/C in a car thats from the North West Teritories up north in Canada where there is snow 365 days a year."
Those were options. If you ordered it, it was installed. GM didn't care where the car was going.
-
"There is NO and I mean NO,"0", zilch , emissions on my car even though it is California built! That is, except for the PCV valve and heat risor, LOL. I don't know why, maybe because it was built in '69."
Only cars sold in California got the extra emissions in 70. Cars built to be sold in the other states, even from Van Nuys, didn't need to have it and GM didn't waste the money on them.
-
You can do it but it's a real PITA. Check out this thread http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140403 I'd wait until the tranny is loose for the stall swap. Just manually shift it to second when you want to hear it roar until then.
-
No down shift means bad cable adjustment, connection, or intrnal tranny problem. The cable just connects to the transmission internally to make it down shift. If I remember right, it moves a valve and redirects hydraulic pressure to cause the down shift. When you grab the cable and pull it as far as it will go, you should feel some spring type pressure when you are almost at the end of the pull. This is when the down shift happens. The rest is just free play to let the carb and it's linkage work.
Z20 Confirmation!!!
in SS 454
Posted
I'll be working Friday but plan on going Saturday, weather permitting. If you decide to go Saturday, PM me and we could try to meet somewhere. You can buy the 71 parts Friday, but leave the 70 parts for me.