Its Just Me
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Posts posted by Its Just Me
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I'm going to install an eaton tru-track differential/posi in the SS this weekend...
Because this set up uses helical gears vs a clutch pack, I assume I don't need to use the GM Limited Slip gear oil additive. Am I correct in this assumption? Do I need to use any other type of special additive for this differential?
Thanks
Scott
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Dennis:
You say your not opposed to changing your heads since you're considering swapping on a dual plane intake anyway...Have you considered aluminum heads? I know they may be price prohibitive, but from everything I have read, you can effectivly reduce compression by 1 point just from the improved heat dissipation. Not to mention you can look for a set with a larger combustion area, further reducing CR.
A cheaper option (maybe) is if you're running a closed chamber head now (which was popular back then), maybe look for a set of cast iron open chambers. Open chambers typically have a larger combustion area than closed chambers, and they tend to breath better on the street. A good GM open chamber, iron head to consider would be an 049 or a 781 casting. The 781's are a newer version of the 049. They were produced from 1973-??? and are considered to be one of the best flowing, out of the box GM heads made. And can be made even better with some valve and port work (now they get expensive). I believe the 049's had a 122-126 cc combustion area, which is quite large, and would probably help reduce your compression. By how much would depend on what you have for heads and combustion chamber volume now.
Check out "racingjunk.com" there is a set of 781's listed for, I think, $500, and already have the larger valves installed.
As others have said, you need to consider the "whole package" though. Changing the heads may reduce compression a bit, but if you change the cam & intake at the same time, you may lose what you gained. Can be a tough game to play. Talk to a reputable machine shop & enjoy the ride.
Scott
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Score one for the good guys!
Joe, you were dead on...I dug around in the mess of wires that was the connection to the aftermarket radio. What I found was, whoever installed the "new" radio, cut the original radio connector off, then proceeded to twist the gray and yellow wire together, and nicely wrapped it in e-tape. I un-wrapped and un-twisted the wire and waa-laa...no more lights with the key switch.
After doing the happy dance,
I clipped the yellow & gray wires back to the insulation, folded the gray wire back then wrapped them all together with e-tape.Thanks to all who have helped me with this (and other) issues. It may sound old and rehashed, but this is, by far, the best and most generous Club anyone could ever be a part of...I just wish I would have joined sooner.
Thanks again!
Scott
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Toppless72:
I was able to work on the monte a bit last night and pulled fuses out of the fuse block until the parking lights went out. The fuse that killed the parking lights was the one in the "radio" slot of the fuse block. So now I know which circuit is affecting the lights, but what is the next step?
In an earlier post you made reference to a gray 20g wire and a dial lamp. Could you clarify. Is the gray wire you refer to, on the back side of the fuse block, as I don't see any gray wires on the face of the fuse block? What is a dial lamp?
Sorry, I'm not too sharp on electrical issues, but I'm trying to learn.
Bruce: I confirmed that I have both the ground wire connections you refer too, and I did replace the headlight switch, (with your previous assistance, thanks again). The switch needed to be replaced because the dimmer motion was shot and some lugs were loose. I was hoping that the switch replacement would solve this issue...wrong.
Thanks all
Scott
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PM sent to gprimm.
Can anyone answer my question about swapping the glass & cables into my existing chrome housing, or are they designed to not come apart?
Thanks
Scott
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Guinnea pig update...I tried to install the bump stops yesterday...It looks like I will need to chain the front of the car to the floor somehow before trying to lift the a-arms. I only moved them about an inch before it lifted the front of the car off the jack stands.
Yesterday wasn't a very productive day on the Monte...see my power steering post for an additional failure.
I think I'll just drink some green beer today and call it a weekend.
Scott
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Yesterday I installed the pressure reducing kit on my power steering pump. I refilled the pump, started the car and now have no power steering at all. I lifted the front end and cycled the steering a few times back and forth to be sure the pump was primed, but when I lowered it again, no power.
The original set up had 1 shim installed (1200 psi), I removed that shim, per instructions, then installed 4 new shims. According to the instructions, I should have about 850 psi.
Could my valve be sticking or do I need to remove a shim or two?
Power steering doesn't need to be bled to remove the air somehow...does it?
Guess I'll be pulling it all apart again.
Thanks
Scott
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Gonzo, that sounds great. I will certainly keep that in mind. Summer is always very busy for me with wife, work, kids and farm, but my wife & I always try do something fun together w/o kids. It's alway easier to escape before kids go back to school. I'll keep my eyes posted for progress reports from Sam.
Scott
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Thanks jrb, I'll get one with my next summit order.
Scott
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Joe:
I do have an aftermarket radio, but I unhooked it completely and nothing changed.
I'll give your suggestion to pull fuses a try when I can get back to my car.
Thanks for the help.
Scott
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My parking lights and my dash lights all turn on when my key is in the run position. The lights are quite dim and they brighten a bit when I rev the engine. I replaced the light switch to no avail (needed to change it for other reasons though). All the lights work as they should with the key off, but I lose the ability to dim my dash (or turn off the parking & dash lights) when the key is turned on. I do not have LED lights. I have good grounds from the battery to the engine and from the battery to the front fender.
The car was restored previous to me so I have no idea if a wire is crossed or connected wrong, though based on previous issues, nothing would suprise me.
Could it be the key switch?
Where should I start looking.
Thanks
Scott
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Is it possible to install new bump stops on the upper front a-arms without popping the ball joints & removing the coil springs?
My new bump stops are urethane bolt ins, so I was thinking (or hoping) I could remove the front rims and shocks, then use a floor jack to raise the a-arms high enough to sneak the new ones in, and then run a long extension & socket with the nut thru the coil spring to secure the new stops.
I wouldn't attemt this w/o first blocking the a-arms so they couldn't smash my hands
while I'm attemting to install the new ones under them.I'm completely missing one bump stop and the other is smashed down pretty good.
Has anyone ever done this or am I the guinnea pig?
Scott
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I just found the thread I was thinking about. Only about 4 pages back. I was searching the archives, that's why I didn't see it earlier.
Is my power steering pump "overboosted"? And will a pressure regulator kit solve my problem.
Scott
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I thought I read about this on an earlier post, but can't seem to find it now. Maybe someone can provide the link.
My 71 SS has power steering...sounds great right? The issue is, it seems way to easy to steer, I mean, there is absolutely no resistance at the steering wheel. My personal preference is to have a bit of resistance or "feel" when driving but this seems like my grandmothers buick LeSabre, you know the kind, with the 24" diameter wheel that you need to look thru to see the road
.I thought I had heard about a restrictor or pressure regulator that would help bring back the feel factor. As far as I know, the car has all original equipment. I have 3 complete turns lock to lock. Any suggestions or I'm I just too strong for my steering wheel?
Thanks
Scott
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Well Bruce...I hadn't really thought about selling...but I've never been one to limit my options.
My wife would be the major decision maker on the fate of this car. You see, I bought a MC for her for her birthday 2 years ago. It was a 350/350 combo, A/C, black on black on black, bench seat, 10 bolt open rear, rally rims, column shift, excellent interior, but it needed significant body work, tho it looked good from 20 ft. She loved having her own "hotrod" as she called it. After pricing body work and paint (WOW!!!), I started looking for a replacement, upgraded "hotrod" for her that didn't need body work. The SS was the fruit of that search. I tried to make it clear that this car would be "ours" but she doesn't quite see it that way.
Her only issue is that it's too nice to drive as much as she was accustomed too. She drove her old car everywhere and in all weather except winter. I think she misses that.
So "she" may be open to selling if we can replace it with more of a daily driver. I, on the other hand, would require a replacement with a solid body and "good" paint, A/C is a must, and bucket seats and a floor shift. Engine & drive train is open as I have a few options at my disposal.
So recapping...not really for sale, but I will certainly keep you in mind if we change our minds.
FYI...We are hoping to drive the SS to Michigan if Sam & Co. can put a meet together this summer/fall. Hope to meet a bunch of fellow members.
Scott
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Montefrazer: Yes, I plan on going to the swap, probably on Friday only though. I usually go with a couple friends who have a swap space every year. That works out good as I don't have to carry all my loot out to the parking area.
Scott
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Could I get some suggestions as to where to get a "good" left hand, chrome remote mirror for my '71 SS? The one on my car appears to be a repro. I don't think it was ever correctly installed and now the cables are stretched and frayed. Everything is so loose, that the glass shakes terribly just driving down the road. Can I get just the glass and cables or do I need to get the chrome housing and mount also?
TIA
Scott
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Sounds great-though schedule dependent. The kids are back in school then so a bit tougher to get away for a long weekend without them.
My wife & I always wanted to take the ferry across Lake Michigan, this sounds like the perfect excuse.
Scott
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For those who don't know my story, I bought a very nice 71 Monte Carlo with a 454 in it this last summer.
I was told it was an SS and it had all the badging. It also had a lot of the tell tale signs of an SS, such as boxed control arms, large front sway bar, Th400, 12 bolt but was missing the load leveling system, except for the valve on the upper control arm. The car had undergone a restoration at some point and could have been cloned. It came with no documentation but I had a strong hunch it was genuine, but w/o the build sheet, who knows.
So tonight I decided to spend a little more time looking for my build sheet. I had already been in and around the dash and under the drivers seat w/no luck, so I started with the rear seat. I didn't really have much optimism, but I wasn't going to let that stop me.
I pulled out the bottom section, did a quick scan, didn't see anything so I went to the seat back. This is where I found the build sheet for my Chevelle, so I had it in my head that this is where it would be. Again, no luck.
Disappointed but not really suprised, I began putting things back together. In went the seat back. Then I grabbed the seat bottom and gave it a little better going over and there it was...tucked in very tightly in the very corner of the left hand side, up under the seat cover and between the springs...
The photo shows it after I pulled it down to see it better. It was in pretty tough shape. It looked like half of it was torn off and the other half was folded over and pinned between the cushion and the spring, but the part that I could read, clearly said "454 cid 4bbl, std dual exhaust, and G70x15 W/Stripe...Oh happy day...
I decided I had to try to remove the remaining portion of the build sheet to see what other secrets it may hold. So I cut the hog rings from that corner of the seat and very carefully pulled back the seat cover, the cushion and the springs and was able to remove what was left of the sheet. It was bonded to the seat springs at each end and I had no choice but to tear it during removal. I was able to remove all that was there, just in a few pieces.
The upper left hand portion shows the standard 1971 Monte Carlo ID# 138571B and left of that it has the last 4 digits (1115) of my VIN. So I know it's the right sheet for my car....
Then the big score.....the ultimate confirmation....Z20 MONTE CARLO SS!!!
So the Gods were smiling on me tonight...only half the build sheet, but the half with all the good stuff!!!
I see build code V30 F&R BMPR GARD...does this mean that it had the actual bumper guards or is this just the code for the SS rubber bumper pad? My car currently has neither, as the bumper was replaced, but I would like to get the correct rear guards if that's what it had. The front guards are still on the car.
Tomorrow I will pull the front seat backs off, as MCFan did, hoping to find a better or more complete sheet. But even if I don't, I can rest assured that my car is a genuine, one of 1919 produced, SS454.
Scott
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Sweet...and congrats. I found mine today too...going to post photos in the SS454 forum now.
Scott
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Unbolted the rear-end cover to determine if I had a bad posi unit or no posi and to determine gear ratio. I found 3.31 gears
and a non posi carrier . Also found really chewed up gears in the differential 
. Now searching for a 3 series 12-bolt posi carrier...anyone???Scott
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RichG: Thanks for looking...1 in a million (or 1 in 1919) but worth a shot.
LostnFound: Can you explain what I would be looking for? My shock mounts have a small hole in them that looks like they could be used to mount plates, but my 72 small block,12 bolt parts car has the same holes. Could be that the SS would have threads tapped in them? I'll check for threads when I can access the rearend a little better, the front is up on jack stands right now, makes it a bit tight.
Scott
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Rich and others
The car is black on black w/black vinyl top. Vin # is 138571B111115. 12 bolt posi, 3.31 gears, buckets w/floor shift, front bumper guards, no tilt, no guage package, A/C, TH400, 454, large front sway bar, rear sway bar & boxed control arms, rear air shocks, 15x7 ralleys. It's missing, or never had, shock protectors and the load leveling compressor, but it does have the valve mounted in the rear. It has the black padded steering wheel with the burlwood insert. It appears to have all the correct big block brackets etc, but I know the 454 is not the correct/original. The radiator cover has what appears to be the original tuning sticker still attached and it and it lists the 454 as the engine.
I beleive the car was restored at some not too distant past, so who knows what was added, changed, removed. The restoration was very nicely done. Whoever did the resto, either was very familiar with SS montes, or it just started out as one.
I'll check today to see if I have 3/8" fuel lines. And maybe I better move the build sheet search up on my list a bit.
I'll figure out how to load photos, maybe later this weekend. I know how you guys love photos and can pick stuff out that I never even see. Probably start a new thread then.
Scott
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Darren: As part of the restoration (prior to me), the inner fenderwells were replaced...therefore no holes or brackets.
Sam: I've never heard of the SS's having different knobs, but I learn something new every day, maybe someone else will chime in & straighen us out. To answer your question, the original radio is long gone, but my light switch is the smaller rubber style (inlike the larger plastic of the '70's), but no symbol on it. And based on what I'm learing from my thread in the electrical forum, my switch may not be the original. My lighter does have the symbol though.
Can someone confirm or deny this question...did the big block cars have a larger fuel line from the tank to the pump and if so, what size? I thought I read that somewhere.
Scott
Adjustable Modulator
in Drivetrain Tech
Posted
This should be a simple question for those in the know. I have a TH400 trans with an adjustable type vacuum modulator. I think is shifts too soon (into second under 10 mph). Can anyone tell me which way to turn the adjustment to get the trans to shift at a higher speed? Clockwise or counterclockwise assuming facing the transmission/modulator with the screwdriver in hand.
And how sensitive are they, should I make 1/8th turn adjustments or 1/2?
Thanks
Scott