Its Just Me

Anyone else notice the dual sport mirrors, cruise control turn signal, power windows & locks, tilt wheel and the tach/gauge dash? Nicely optioned, likely Canadian built so good documentation can be had. Seems a reasonable price and '71 is my favorite year. Good thing it's half a country away. Scott

Another vote for the Hedmans here. Good fit, no "performance denting" required to install. I have the silver ceramic but I think black ceramic is also available if you want them less visible Scott

Pypes Exhaust. All stainless, mandrel bent, choice of mufflers (or none) and you can go with or without the X. I have 3" on my BBC Chevelle and 2 1/2" on my SBC Monte. Race Pro mufflers and no "x" on either. Love'em. Good fit, no drone, reasonable.

I'm also a fan of the ViKing front coil overs. I have the dual adjustable fronts on my Chevelle and they are great. Made in the US (Minnesota) and the best value out there. Give them a call, they are great to work with and will set you up with what you need. If I put a big block in my Monte, it will be a no-brainer to swap out to ViKing coil-overs as part of the project. Let us know what you do. Scott

JP: If you're looking for a head suggestion (aluminum), I would recommend Brodix Race Rite, Oval Port, 270 cc intake volume and 115 cc combustion chambers. They have all the mounting holes for accessories and the stock exhaust port locations. Unless you're considering over 700 hp in the future, they'll work great on most any 454 combination. Scott

Doug, I'm running King bearings in a 400 hp 350 and can't say anything bad about them. The tolerances were within spec and they seem like a good product. I only have about 7500 miles on them, but no problems. That being said, I just pulled my 427 apart. I built it in 1983 using Clevite 77P bearings. That thing consistently saw 6500 rpm at the track and had probably 35,000 hard street miles on it. I took it apart because it was using oil and I figured the bearings were tired too. Suffice it to say, the bearings will be going back in because they have literally no signs of wear. I think it comes down to proper clearances and regular oil changes. If you had good luck with the Clevite P's, I say stick with'em. Scott

Jeff, Welcome to the Club. Here's my story and thoughts and it's worth exactly what you paid for it, ha. When I had my '71 SS it didn't have the original engine, so I had no issues with diving in. The 454 it did have, was anemic. I pulled it out, bumped the compression to 9.4:1 with a piston change and installed a hydraulic roller cam from a ZZ502 crate engine. I also added an aluminum intake (painted orange to retain the original "look"). I tweaked the quadrajet (they are awesome carbs). My car came with headers so I left them on, but given the chance I would have preferred the stock exhaust manifolds for the original look and sooooo much easier to change plugs. The few HP you give up won't even be noticed as the big block makes plenty of torque, especially if you're accustomed to small blocks. My combo, with the original 3.31 rear gears knocked down 15 mpg, made about 450 HP on 87 octane, had a slight lope, was as reliable as my daily driver and was an absolute hoot to drive. Since you say you're an old hot rodder (me too), I highly recommend this route as you'll get a lot more enjoyment out of your car AND it retains the original look. I would discourage the thought of bagging the original engine and installing a crate engine. Storage of an engine is a tough road. Condensation and rust will find its way in no matter how well you prep and care for it. Unless you plan on making big power with high RPM, the chances of damaging the original block are nearly non existent. The best place to store an engine is in the car, the best way to care for that engine is to run it with regular maintenance. One of the greatest things about having a Monte is that everyone has a Monte Carlo story. You better have patience when fueling up as they all want to share their story with you. Nice car, ENJOY! Scott

Holy crap Ron, you're way ahead of me. Most people don't know VortecPro. I thought you were building an engine not buying one or I would have mentioned Mark. That set up is similar to mine but I certainly don't have the VortecPro touch. That thing will be everything you want and more. I've always told myself the my next engine will be from him. I'm curious what Mark thinks of aluminum heads on that engine as he seems to be the master of the 781/049 cast irons. Keep us posted please. Scott

What Tom said if you're stuck on HP numbers. If you're not stuck on numbers and just want a great running street engine, I'm running a 460 BBC with a Straub Technologies HR cam, iron heads and an RPM intake. Nothing special but the best running, funnest engine I've ever put together. I'm cranking about 525 hp, 15 mpg with a 4-spd, 3.73 gears and no overdrive. It drives like gramma's car till you hit the gas. I could drive it cross country if I chose to. It surprises EVERYONE for what it is. Chris Straub says if I were to swap a set of properly set up Brodix aluminum heads, I would likely be seeing 575 hp with no detrimental affects on streetablilty (well, probably a ding on mpg, but you gotta feed the horses). I've learned that often times people chase a horsepower number. Their neighbor has 600 hp so they need 650, my friend has 650 so I need 700. Then their car sits because they over built it and it's no fun to drive, but they have bragging rights I guess. If you don't enjoy driving it, you won't drive it. All this to say call Chris at Straub Technologies, or Mike Jones at Lewis Racing Engines (closer to you). Be honest with yourself and what you really want to do with the car, then relay that to Chris or Mike. Neither will try to sell you what you don't need and you'll get much better results than mail order parts assembly. Who knows, with a 496 and Chris or Mikes help, you're likely to see the numbers you want AND it will be street friendly, reliable and fun to drive! Let us know what you decide. Scott

Call Chris at Straub Technologies (straubtechnologies.com). He specializes in roller cams but will recommend and sell flat tappet cams as well. Be ready to answer a bunch of questions about your engine and car, but I promise he'll set you up and you won't be disappointed. or Mike Lewis Racing Engines (lewisracingengines.com) is closer to you. He can do the same thing. Don't let the "racing engines" scare you, he won't recommend something you won't be happy with. Both are very reasonable and good at what they do. Trust the experts, not the hype. I'll never buy another catalog cam again. Scott

Doug Stock ride height and proper pinion angle is the best thing you can do to combat wheel hop. If you're running air shocks all pumped up and worn out bushings, boxing your control arms won't make a bit of difference. I previously owned a big block Monte with boxed arms, new bushings, sway bar and air shocks. I also had the triangulation bars mentioned, I think some call them 4-speed bars (not sure why). At stock height, I never had any issues with hop. Put a few pounds of air in shocks and hop started to appear, over 25# and it was ridiculous. I got rid of the air shocks and never had hop issues again. Hop(e) this helps. Scott

Beware the Gen V & VI big blocks, ie 502, do not have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump. If your already running an electric pump, it's not an issue. Your flexplate/flywheel will also need to be replaced. I'm a fan of the ATK crate engines, check them out. Scott

Mike: I'm struggling with the same thing on my new (small block) engine build. So far, the only thing that seems to work for me is premium fuel (my compression ratio is 9.6:1) or leaving it in gear (loads the engine) when shutting it off. I'm still breaking it in and fine tuning. I'm optimistic I can solve it without premium fuel. Like others have said, a fuel shut off/pump won't help, neither will adjusting your timing. You have a hot spot in the combustion chamber that lights off the remnant fuel/air mix after the key is switched off. Small blocks seem to be more prone to this for some reason. Is this something that just started on an old engine or is this a fresh engine build? A few options to try that are simple: Run some Sea Foam in the gas to try to clean up the carbon deposits in combustion chamber (if an old engine) Try premium fuel (if a new engine, compression ratio may be a bit higher than you think) Leave car in gear when shutting it off (this works for me) If not already, hook your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum, then slow the idle back down (this closes the throttle blades just a smidge more, reducing the air entering the engine at shut down. The same theory as the idle solenoid) 1 step cooler spark plugs Good luck. Scott

I agree with Rob, if your happy with the springs in it now, keep'em. It seems to be a crap shoot with ride height when changing springs. Just change bushings, shocks & carry on. I have the Viking coil overs in my Chevelle that Paul suggested and I love them. Yes, pricey but not compared to other brand coil overs and the ability to adjust ride height is awesome. I also have poly bushings in my Chevelle (since 1990) and they don't squeek like everyone refers to BUT, I searched out PolyGraphite bushings not just standard polyurethane. They are available from a company called PST, on e-bay. Last winter I put a set of the polygraphite PST bushing in my Monte and have my fingers crossed they are as good as what is in my Chevelle. Time will tell, but happy so far with only 1000 miles. BTW, I paid $250 to have a local shop press the old bushings out and the new in, after I removed the arms from the car. I felt that was pretty steep, but they also changed 1 ball joint that was questionable. Scott

NO!!! Do what you have to to get longer studs, even if you have to get ARP's. Is it worth a quarter panel or fender (or worse)?! Your stock studs are 7/16" diameter with a 24 pitch. If you're only engaging 8 threads, you're grabbing less than 3/8" worth of stud. If 3/8" was enough, GM would have used 3/8" studs. AND you're stressing the very end of the stud, not close to the base. Maybe fine at low straight speed, but put a little lateral stress on that around a corner and you'll be wishing you changes studs. Get 1-3/4" studs and they will work with both your new (beautiful) aluminum rims and your steel rims. PLUS you have the assurance of new (not 48 yr old) studs. Your car looks great, lets protect it (and you)! Scott

Nice project car, enjoy the process & keep the photos coming. I sent you a PM Scott

Doug: You can add that I have a build sheet for my Custom.

That '63 Impala was made in Janesville, WI. It was displayed at the local Janesville Chevy dealership a few years ago. It was billed as a sort of homecoming. I snuck out on my lunch break to go look at it. Some of the details and the little things they found in that car are amazing. Like the metal plug that was drilled out on the assembly line so the antenna could be installed on the fender. Way cool. Scott

Tony: Make sure your rotors/wheel bearings are not over torqued. If your bearings are too tight, things get hot and can cause the rotors to drag and it's really easy to blame the brakes. I believe the nut gets torqued to about 16 newton/meters, then backed off to the closest opening in the castle nut to get the pin in. Easy fix if this is the problem. If it's not the problem, it's still a good idea to lay your eyes on the bearings if this is a new car to you. Good luck. Scott

I have a friend who put FiTech on his 69 small block Camaro. Overall he's pleased, BUT...the FiTech instructions encourage you to put the system on an engine that is already running and tuned. My friend did a bunch of engine mods, including the FiTech and had a very difficult time sorting through the normal issues of a fresh, modified engine vs the "normal" FiTech/computer/fuel/timing issues. He's a very talented auto mechanic, but was pulling his hair out. He definitely recommends adding the FiTech (or any fuel injection system) AFTER getting your fresh engine broke in and running properly. Tell us about the 427....I'm a big block guy myself and I (mistakenly) thought I could be happy with the 350 in my Custom. I too, have a 427 being prepped to go in the Monte. I've heard people refer to the 427 as "just a heavy small block" but I beg to differ. The torque of a lightly modified "small" 427 will put a smile on your face even if your accustomed to a 420 HP small block. Welcome to the "Rat" pack. Scott

Bryan: Get the heads you want BEFORE getting a cam. The heads will dictate what cam will work best. Then CALL a reputable cam manufacturer and tell them what you have and what you want to accomplish. This is, by far, the best way to get what you will be happy with. Work with the people that understand cam technology. Now my shameless plug: My favorite is Straub Technologies, Piney Flats, Tennessee. Chris can set you up with a flat tappet if that's what you want, but his specialty is rollers. He also sets up heads for a good price and will steer you in the right direction. My 454 Chevelle has a Straub Tech cam, spec'ed for the heads I run. It has gramma car drivability and just screams when I hit the loud pedal. Oh, so fun to drive. I'm currently saving to put Straub built heads and roller cam in the Monte in my signature. I wish I could do it today, but I know it's worth the wait to do it right. As long as you can currently drive your car, keep driving/saving and do it once. You will not regret it. Best of luck Scott

Nice job with this project Doug. Here are my updates: Exterior: Antique White/Black Vinyl Top Interior: Black Cloth Console Tach Air Conditioning Tilt Stock Condition (except rims) Aftermarket am/fm/cassette radio Van Nuys built

Cool idea, I'm in. '72 Custom 350/350, 12 bolt posi. With build sheet, original engine, trans and rear (I did change the gears though) and lots of options, see my signature. Wish it was a big block, but oh well. What else do you want to know? Cory M (CKZ03) a FGMCC Member from Ohio I believe, has an outstanding example of a Custom. Haven't seen him on line for quite a while, but he was quite active a few years ago. Hope someone will encourage him to pipe up. Scott

A real quick, temporary solution is to wrap the screw threads with teflon tape to make them a wee bit larger. I've done this multiple times, but now after reading other solutions, I have a new project! Love this Club, always learning new tricks. Scott

Looks great, but I'm partial to the color combo. I also noticed the fiber optics. Do they work? My '70 Chevelle has fiber and when I had it repainted in 1983, the painter thought they were just electrical wires and cut one when attempting to remove the fender indicator. That one light still doesn't work. I've worked with several fiber optic splicers on jobs I've managed and none can splice the old fiber. Apparently it's different than the new stuff. Rock, the license plate is a Wisconsin (Cheese Country) collector plate. Scott