KnightTime007

JC, I have spent some time on the column this weekend, but I am still fighting with it a bit. The heat makes it miserable working outside right now but this is Florida, what can I expect? Good thing I am not getting paid by the hour for this repair or I would be receiving a few Pennies per hour. The upper bowl just doesn't like me, but I am not giving up ... I will get it reassembled and functioning correctly eventually! I have formed the opinion that column work can be a PITA. My offer always stands concerning the Wipers documentation. Charlie

I so agree! (M)academia Nuts is my favorite name for them! I have done my share of college and other schooling, but I'm a regular guy with lazy New Awlins accent and speech. In my IT career I have worked and with many flavors of instructional authors and curriculum developers for various purposes. Most have multiple college degrees in areas of Instructional Design. They can communicate well with other academia nuts with their special edumucated vernacular and cute acronyms, but cannot put simple and concise words together on a page. Known your target audience geeks! It's not another guy with 3 degrees ... It's the rest of us. Reading a English software manual or instructions written by Chinese folks using Google Translate is almost comical. Don't get me started! I need to go get working on my Monte but its already soooo hot outside.

JC, Again thanks for help and detailed description, you write better procedural instructions than most professional pubs. I apologize for the previous poor post. I should have decompressed from a stressful work day for an hour or so before getting into the repair and definitely before posting. Here is what I did this evening before my brain cooked post: Installed bearing housing Installed the pivot pins (surprised they were just friction fitted) Installed the lock pin assembly Installed the sector gear onto the lock cylinder rod (the large tooth on the gear is in the large groove of the ignition rack) Tried to install a snap ring on the lock cylinder rod to retain the sector gear, but 3/16" ring was too small and a 1/4" ring was sloppy. Calipers measure the groove at 7/32" and don't have one that size yet. Tried to install the (sector gear spring ?). The top end of the spring that extends up toward the sector gear has two "tips". One tip with the bent loop slid into the sector gear top groove. The other tip is a single open loop and my camera showed it was in the bore of the lock pin when I disassembled it. When i attempted to rotate the lock cylinder rod to the run position it wouldn't withdraw the lock pin into the bearing housing to its shortest position. I think I have something misaligned with the gear, rack and switch. When I aligned the upper bowl over the bearing housing and started pushing down it will not slide down even applying moderate force. The upper bowl was a fight to remove originally also. I am sure the lock pin is aligned with its bore as try to slide it down. I'll try to take it apart and start over tomorrow! Thanks Charlie

Column expert? I don't think I have even graduated from rookie to novice yet! Computer expert I will accept after 31 years in the field, but I'm surely a column rookie. I didn't think I would be spending this much time in the column ... perhaps an hour or so replacing the cylinder. Not even close! I've replaced a front end in less time. But good stuff to learn though but it can be a bit frustrating at times. I am fighting getting the upper bowl back on the column, just like it fought me being removed. I have it lined up with the steering wheel locking pin just starting into the bore. I tried with a small punch and gave it a few gentle taps. How does the pin head clear the top of the sector gear? I see the pin is flat along the shaft but nearly round at the tip. I'm sure I am doing something stupid as I just finished a 11 hour network problem fix at work and I am brain fried. Also the small sector gear spring tip goes into that bore hole too? My pictures of disassembly are not useful as I had hoped! Thanks JC the column expert!

I had an about an hour this evening to start reassembling the column and had a small problem arise. I will try to use the correct parts names as my little exploded diagram labels them but they are visually small. I cleaned everything accessible and greased every moving part with synthetic high temp lithium grease. New parts are sector gear, ignition switch rack, sector spring, ignition switch and ignition cylinder. I thread locked and tightened the 4 bearing housing support screws, mounted the housing with the tilt lever assist, installed spring lever tilt guide and retainer, lock shoe pin, ignition switch rack to the rod, the bearing housing pivot pins, sector gear on the lock shoe with the spring, Everything seems right and tight to this point. The sector rod an sector gear operates rod freely with the ignition switch removed. I had to replace the ignition switch because it was not moving freely as the switch rod connection hole has elongated and cracked binding the action. I replaced the ignition switch and now I am a little stuck. I am having problems determining the correct position of the switch ( 3 clicks and the start position spring back) and the sector gear relative positions to provide correct travel for the cylinder. Sorry if I misused part names ... I'm a column noob. Are there any tips you can offer on aligning the switch and gear to provide correct cylinder position and function? Thanks Charlie

JC, Indeed the power steering pump on the Impala has to come out, but its all fairly accessible. Nothing like working on a Nissan ... they are the worst vehicles to service IMO, just awful design! After I replaced the IMT Valve and reset the computer, It started throwing a P0442 code a few days later. Maybe I nicked a fuel evaporation line or perhaps pure coincidence. I don't have a smoke machine so it's just going to live that way for a while ... It still runs great. I finally had a few minutes to work on the Monte column this evening. The two top torx screws were completely backed out, just plucked them with a needle nose. The bottom two were about 4 or 5 turns from falling out too. The nuckle was as dry as a bone. I took pictures as I took each piece out so I hope that will assist my reassembly. Thats quite a few parts! Again thanks for the help. Charlie

Bruce, Mark, No harm no foul ... like I said I remember a pigtail from + to a location near the Rad support on a Chevelle owned. Some things even depend upon plant location, wouldn't be first time. Thanks for looking, the pic link and the assistance. PS. Bruce, You have the coolest looking signature picture ever on FGMCC ... just sayin' Joe, A 4 gauge red wire to the horn realy from the starter solenoid + with an inline 16 gauge fusible link? My Horn Relay is in the same location by the Brake Booster, but it looks like a 12 gauge wire at best with no fusible link. Looks like I have loom to remove and a new wire to run! Maybe it was burned once before I bought it and he just stuck whatever he had to make the connection ... but 4 gauge to 12 gauge ... major difference! Resistance from solenoid to relay was miniscule, but I need to run real voltage through there after I get the column back together. Thanks Charlie

Joe, I'll let you know if I have any problems reassembling the column. I bought a new ignition switch and cylinder at the beginning of the column repair, I thought both were suspect. I think I'll return the switch as the original tested good after I removed it from the column. The cylinder was definetly worn out and the original I suspect. I know firsthand the IMT Valve pain as I have 2006 Impala with a 3.9L. It kept setting a P2070 code and I had to replace the valve ... stuck open right? It's only about a $100 part, but $500 worth of back pain. You are absolutely right ... sitting in the drivers seat working on the column is as nice as any physical position gets doing automotive repair. Good luck with the Impala! Charlie

Joe, I was a good thing, but a little embarrasing to learn it was a tilt after 13 years of owning it! Tilts do seem desireable to a lot of folks, but I can't say I really use the tilt feature in any of my vehicles very often. Occasionally I might during a long Interstate trip to drop the wheel down near my thigh to rest my hand on my leg. The Monte never gets to ride on Interstate, just on the local highways. Just to feel even a little more dumb, I pulled my laminated built sheet out of my Monte folder and guess what it says??? ..... Tilt Steering ..... duuuuhhhh Well, finally success! I got a 4" bolt threaded into the tilt mechanism and was able to remove the housing. All 4 Torx screws are very loose and I will be snugging them up with some thread locker this weekend. I really appreciate your help with this repair, I doubt I would have figured it all out past the lock cylinder without breaking several things in the process (both accidently and intentionaly). It was more involved than I thought it would be, but when it's your first time doing something I guess it seems more difficult. I just replaced the ignition switch harness in my Chevy truck steering column w/Air Bag after many months of troubleshooting a very intermittent but critical electrical problem. The engine would just randomly, immediately, and abrubtly die, quite dangerous to drive really. It might happen once a month, maybe 3 times a day, no regularity. It would throw no computer codes and would start back up 3 minutes later like nothing ever happened. After lots of tests and ground checking (seems like grounds are the soultion to many electrical problems I've experienced), several Chevy Truck forum discussions led me replace the ignition switch harness. Bingo ... it's ran great since. Now that the column it all opened up, is there anything you recommend I do regarding preventative maintenance or parts replacement besides lubrication? I'd rather button this column up for a few years at least. Next up after some needed repairs on our daily drivers ... a cooked starting system from reversed jumper cables. I have too many cars! Thanks, Charlie

Joe, It wouldn't be the first or last time I am wrong for sure! I do feel a little stupid not realizing the tilt rod must have been missing since I bought it! That would be why the non-tilt sector gear I bought from OPGI was wrong. I think I assumed it was non tilt steering because it only had a indicator and hazard switch protruding from the column and never looked for it. Honestly just thought that there would have been a third lever behind the indicator like my newer Chevy vehicles to lower and raise the wheel. I didn't remove a release tilt release lever and the pics show me no lever was in the column since I bought it. I took pics after every piece removed to aid me in reassembly. Looks like I will need to get a lever! I am enjoying learning about some things I didn't know ... Thanks for patience and assistance. It's one of my play cars so no pressure to get running on a timetable for transportation. The Exploded diagram I am using is all I have to reference part names and locations. It is very small and the page is a bit smeared with grease. Thanks Charlie

I bet you are getting tired of me asking about steering column guts! The socket with a screw, nut and washer worked really well, very nice no special tool tip. For some reason out of the billion screws ( ok a little stretching of reality) in my drawers, I didn't have a long enough screw to reach through the socket. So I stacked increasing larger washers on the 8/32 x 1" screw I did have until the last few washers had an inside diameter larger than the pivot pin head. They came out very easily. Sorry to be a noob on the column repair ... Another question! Is there a trick to sliding the housing off after the pins are removed? I have no tilt steering ... the bottom of the housing is free and it pivots up at the top with pins removed. It's not just sliding off ... I've moved it up and down, in and out while in the up position. Thanks for your help... Charlie

The MultiMeter is energized again ... I'm getting old (or cheap or both) ... $4.50 for a little 9V battery! Purple wire comes from the Junction Block? I have searched the front of battery and radiator support area over like a hawk ... I cannot find a terminal or the reminence of a terminal block. I see from your picuture there are three connections on that terminal. The + battery pigtail connection, but what are the other two cables attached to?

Joe, I saw the groove on the flat tab and thought it might accept a snap ring, and the ring was missing when I opened it up. I have no lack of tools and fasteners on hand ... I was in the hardware business many years ago and can usually win a game of "name that fastener exactly". I put the new sector gear and spring on just to see if the rod would travel through the positions, and it did as long as the sector gear is tight to the housing. Thanks for the time and effort you have spent helping me with my column repair, I really appreciate it. As I said, anything past pulling a steering wheel and replacing an ignition cylinder is virgin mechanical territory for me in a column. Nice trick with the 13mm socket, screw, washer, and nut for removing the pivot pins. Your instructions are consise and very helpful. I'm back at the work grindstone today (retirement is starting to become visible on the horizon) so it will be a few days before I can show Goldie any attention. I'll post my progress as it is attained. Charlie

My phone was a little greasy! I can get a better one tomorrow if needed. I am thinking I might be digging a deeper hole than I can fill! Thanks

So i drove the pin down with the ignition in the lock position and was able to remove the bowl without damage. I bought a new spring and pin ... But ... I am having second thoughts about the whole locking steering wheel feature. I do like the no locking steering wheels of the pre 70s cars I have owned and theft is a relatively minor concern. I lock a "club" on it if i am out and about in my Monte. If I reassemble the column without the locking spring and pin will if function normally and just not lock? I do see that it matters that the big tooth on the sector gear aligns with the big slot on the rack! The sector gear looks fine now t hat I can see it. The spring not so much and it doesn't keep inward pressure on the gear, allowing the gear to slide out about a quarter inch. When the gear slides out that small amount it won't move the rod ... When I hold the gear tight to the column it rotates freely to all positions. I bet you are probably laughing ... Noobie column guy ... That's the way the parts work in there! But I didn't know ... The spring is what was was catching the bowl from sliding off. From diagrams I found online I thought I would see the torx bolts at this point ... But I don't see them yet! What can I say ... Never been past the lock cylinder before. I'd make a poor car thief I guess.

That's kind of like me in a way ... I live by a beautiful Florida white beach with Aqua Blue/Green waters but only go out there occasionally when family visits and becomes nearly a requirement. HOT Sun and Sand sticking to everything ... Pain in Paradise!

Wow Joe, you are a steering column expert! It would take a month of Sundays for me to try and piece that back together. I have rebuilt quite a few engines over the years, the first one was a 235 straight 6 in a '55 Belair when I was 15 years old. I had no help and it did run for a few 1000 miles after I got it running ... but boy did it smoke! I didn't know what seating rings even meant, but I learned by doing. I see you are not far from my favorite Roller Coaster place in America ... Cedar Point (I am a Coaster Junkie). We have taken our family there several times during the past 20 years and they are itching to do it again soon. Many of our family vacations have been based around visiting Amusement Parks across the US, well over 200 different coasters total, and CP is king of thrill rides in one place. America's Rocking Roller Coast! Do you ever head north a bit and visit CP?

You are right ... I try to not break things I don't have to, but they if they are already broken! I will apply force tomorrow. I take it you have been inside more than a couple of columns? HELP parts have received a decent amount of money from me too over the years. OPGI gets a fair share too. Thanks Charlie

I looked very closely with a spotlight at all the wiring up front and couldn't find a small terminal. Took out battery tray to get better view. The only electrical anything I found are two wires left side lamp, four wires right headlight, three wires parking lamp, and one each horn. 99% sure all original wiring as I'm the second owner and know its history. It seems I do remember a fusible pigtail on positive on my 72 Chevelle. Don't hate that I had a Chevelle ... I was 22 years old fresh out of college! I went back to my best Chevy ever ... Montes' by a Mile My meter battery died and had no spare 9v so I couldn't test the purple and red at the ignition today. The horn relay seems good on voltage. Thanks for the assist ... new Grandpa needs it!

Thanks ... having a grandson makes accept the fact that age is creeping up on me! Sorry JC, I did forget to say the column is non tilt ... so yeah ... Tilt is removed! LOL. Battery is disconnected. What led me down this rabbit hole is the ignition cylinder would only move from lock to Accessory, never to run or start. I figured the cylinder was worn and replaced it, but not the solution. No cylinder in the housing right now. Even with the rod disconnected at the switch, I can't turn the flat tab on the lock rod with needle nose pliers to any position but lock or accessory. As I slide the bowl up the flat tab rotates from lock to acc. and the locking pin moves down. There it seems to stick. Pushing the bowl back down rotates the flat tab back to lock position and locking pin moves back up. It's has to be a worn out sector gear right? Can I drive the locking pin down with a punch even though I can't position the flat tab past lock position into run position? While I probably will never qualify as a NASCAR mechanic ... I can't believe this ignition column issue is kicking my butt for so long! I really appreciate your help Charlie

Little victories keep me sane! That and I became a first time Grandpa this week ... so cool. I got all three of the phillips screws removed from the steering column bowl. One Drilled and EZ Out, the other two with PB soaked, impact driver AND tightening a bit them first. Thanks for the tip ... over 40 years of working on cars and never once have I thought to tighten something first to break it loose. Things like that keep me humble, there is always more I don't know than I do know. OK, so I have the bowl loose and have spent a good 30 minutes trying to remove it from the column. The lock cylinder and indicator rod is removed, and it feels like the bowl is catching on the sector gear perhaps or the indicator switch? I'm not wretching hard on the bowl as I don't want to break anything, but I did apply a few significant tugs and small rotations and it moves off the column about 1/2", maybe 1/4" shy of removal. When I push or pull on the actuator rod the bowl moves with it. Any idea on what a steering column rookie is doing wrong? Never ventured past replacing a lock cylinder before now. Thanks Charlie PS. Here is a good link to 1969-1976 GM Steering Column Assemblies Jim Shea Corvette Papers - Steering Columns