Reaper

I dont like running a high converter on the street either... last summer with my Th400 i was running a 3500 stall and it sucked... This year with the 4L80 I got the converter for $200 bucks and dont know what the stall is... for 200 bucks as long as its not a 4k converter Im happy... its over a thousand dollar converter... and as long as its not gonna kill my tranny stayin with the 3.31's Im gonna stick with em for now... although I will prolly be going with 3.73's soon... Thanks guys Tom

Deffinetly a lot of things to do to beable to handle any kind of "real" HP So far while I was doing the engine I built it for a power adder so the engine is good, the trans I just had done to handle the big block and a power adder, the rear end is a light concern because so far I have only redone the suspension and axles. Oh and I got a 4" chromoley drive shaft with 1350's... Need atleast an 8 point to strengthen the car.... Right now I dont know for sure what kind of power Im putting out.... but its enough for a 12.5 with a 2 sec 60' foot and only reving to 5k RPMs.... and a 3.31 rear gear.... Its a street car so I dont want it to be to rediculus... granted 800 hp is a little rediculus... but what the hell The turbo Im looking at should start making boost about 3000 RPMs and be at full boost by 4000 RPMs... little laggy but I want it that way and besides with the converter itll need to rev that high anyway The converter is also set up for a power adder by the way, anti ballooning plates and billet..... We'll see what happens I will prolly switch to the 3.73's later on unless it does well enough at the track with the 3.31's still... Tom

I have been wanting to put a turbo on my big block and was thinking that I would get it done over this winter... I just figured out how much its going to cost to get the turbo and turbo stuff and the fuel stuff I need and its about $2200 bucks plus whatever its gonna cost me to modify my carb for blow through. I could get a cheaper turbo and not run as much boost and it would be about $1700 but Id rather spend the little extra money and have the power on hand if I ever want it I am still going to put a turbo on it but I am thinking its gonna be next winter not this winter Oh well... Ill have to settle for 12's for now I guess... Unless anyone wants to contribute to the Tom needs a turbo fund On the plus side though after I get the turbo I want I will have an 800 HP capable car Tom

I dont really want that much stall and Im hoping it isnt.... my last converter was in my TH400 and was a 3500 and I didnt really care for it driving on the street... But I bought the converter used from the guy that redid my 4l80 and he couldnt remember what the stall was but for 200 bucks and the ability to bring it back to him if I dont like it I couldnt resist . I drive it on the street a lot... I wanted something in the 3k range but for now I have to hope this one isnt to high... It also has lock up though to try and help out... so thats a plus anyway... My cam and compression arent really enough for that much stall either... My cam is a comp cam duration is somewhere in the 240's cant remember exactly... and the lift is .574/.578 compression is in the 9.25 area....

Well hell maybe Ill just keep the one I have for now then.... I have a Summit one right now that is 17k GVW and 14x7x1 1/2..... I need to get a temp gauge hooked up!

I was just thinking... Do you guys think that a higher stall converter (3500-4000) with a low (3.31) rear could hurt my tranny?? Should I be thinking about doing the 3.73 right now? Thanks, Tom

Cool, thanks

cool thanks guys

Just curious what tranny cooler you street strip guys are running.... I need to get a better one.... Is it worth the extra money to get one with a fan if Im gonna mount it on the radiator and I have electric fans mounted to the radiator? Thanks guys Tom

Strange has them listed differently but they are different sizes... Maybe I should just not be cheap and get the right parts....

Hey just curious if a 8.5 10 bolt 30 spline pinion yoke would work on a car 12 bolt.... I found a 1350 yoke on ebay for the 8.5.... Thanks, Tom

OK... I got the trans in and mostly bolted up... I finished the rear end and put it back in and put the car on the ground to see what the stance looks like now because the rear springs I put on were a lot shorter than the stock ones... (It sits about level now..) Anyway to the problem... When the trans was out of the car I could turn the shaft with no problem... now that its in the car and all bolted up it wont turn easy going counter clock wise and wont turn at all clock wise... this is the way it is in every gear.... Do you guys have any ideas of whats goin in? Thanks, Tom

Well I got the trans in finally There is really nothing to it that is different from any other trans install.... The only thing is that with this trans I had to alternate tightening the 4 bolts to the left and right... If I didnt the trans wouldnt come into the motor.. Took me a while to figure it out but I finally did For the cross member I just spun it around and moved it back as far as I could... still have to drill the holes and bolt up the converter and the linkage but other than that its all done If you were going to keep it electric you would have to bang on the floor a bit... I took a pic of that and will post it along with the cross member and a couple other finished pics... Now for the rear end to go back in and I can get a drive shaft measurement Tom

Thanks, Ill be putting my loop on so at most Ill break a joint and have to fix it Thanks, Tom You gonna be goin out to 42 or Thompson at all this year?

Cool thanks! If I dont get it in tomorrow I will let you know. I took a vaca day today and tomorrow to try and get some stuff done.... Didnt get to much done today.... Tom

Well I dont have a buncha money right now so Im trying to get by with the 1310's for now... Do you think fitting less 1310's would handle a 450-500 hp big block with slicks?

Wish I had a lift! working in the garage with about 1 1/2 feet of clearance Thanks for the offer but Id hate to get someone else hurt... Not a lot of room under there for 2 people... Wish I had a lift!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh well I have done a few trannys of different sorts... shouldnt have a problem with this one... Although this is ranking up there with my 84 GMC that was lifted and I had to put a TH400 and 208 in it in the driveway in the middle of winter... Tom

I wish I had a trans jack... things would be a lot easier And I wish my headers werent so hard to get in and out because Im leaving them in there because of that and because Im leaving them in there I have to work around them... sucks big time! Plus the linkage kept getting in the way and the E brake cables and the speedo cable... sucks doing stuff by your self sometimes... On a plus side I finally changed the axles but I didnt have the right tools and all the parts to change the gears so I am just sticking with the 3.31's for now... Might like them better anyway... Tom

Actually the 4L80 doesnt weigh as much as people think... The trans weighs about 30-40 pounds more than a TH400.... The STOCK converter weighs in at about 75 pounds but the after market one that I have weighs no more than 30.... Yes I am running a big block and plan to put a turbo to it eventually..... I got very lucky the way I got my 4L80... I bought one off of ebay for $100 bucks that I was gonna have rebuilt. Then I found another one that was brand new and newer so it already had the 34 sprag, hardened shaft and can handle a lot of torque for $600. I took the 4L80 that I paid $100 for and my fried TH400 to the tranny shop and got $350 for them. Plus I still have 2 4L80 stock converters to sell, one of them is brand new. Instead of paying over $1000 for the stand alone computer I opted to go manual, Rossler transmission has a way to modify the valve body to make it manual without the computer or if I decide to I can later get the computer and hook it up. It worked out very well for me and Im happy And honestly I picked the Th400 up and the 4L80 up and there isnt that much of a difference... The stock converter is VERY heavy though... I will take a couple pics and post em.... Tom

If its a 4L80 and hes using new electronics that doesnt work with it its A LOT of money to use it.... The stand alone computers to operate it are over 1k.... I went to a manual shift for that reason... but the people I had do it made it a "hybird" it is manual but can still be hooked up to the computer and be computer controlled also.. The shifter you can use a 4 speed shifter and just bolt the linkage up like you would any other trans... Tom

Oh yeah... one reason I started this topic was to see if I should take any pics? Dont know how hard its really gonna be yet... Anyone else thinking about putting one in their car? Oh by the way I bought a converter off of Carl Rossler, the trans shop I had do my tranny... Its got anti ballooning plates and everything... Got it for $200 bucks After buying the trans, having work done to it and going to a manual valve body and buying the converter I have $1000 bucks in the whole thing About what I would have had in redoing my 400 and buying a new converter since my other one got fried.. Only bad thing is that I have to either shorten my driveshaft or get one made... So at most that will be another $350 or so.... Not to bad I guess... 4th gear and lock-up will be worth it on the trips to the track at least! Tom

Just wondering if anyone has done it yet or if Im gonna be the first here.... I tried to get it up in there earlier today but it just about fell on me so I quit for the day... Wish I had more room to work! Sucked, had to get it around my headers because its to wide and my headers were a pain to put on so I dont want to go through that again... Got it up there and tried to move it on the jack and down it came.. Nothing like a 175 pound tranny falling at you.. Oh well, tomorrows another day.. maybe I can get it in there without it falling on me tomorrow Wish me luck Tom

What kind of abuse can the 1310 with no grease fittings handle? If anyone has an idea.... Tom

Hey Bowtie, I just tried to call but they are closed.... What did they charge you to make a drive shaft? Tryin to figure out what the best thing to do is.... I have a 1350 trans yoke but would still need a pinion yoke... You have any idea what they might charge to shorten mine and put 1350 yokes on it? Just figured Id ask My driveshaft is after market, was actually made at C&U.... Thanks, Tom

I use a canister and my brakes still arent the best but they work Dont really think its from lack of vacuum though... just bad luck with brakes.