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Daryl Smith

(Non-dues paying)
  • Posts

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  • Website URL
    groups.msn.com/SmithDragRacing

Profile Information

  • Location
    Mt. Morris, Michigan FGMCC Member
  • Interests
    Drag Racing & Car Shows
  • Occupation
    Machine Service Tech.

Profile Fields

  • Brass Member
  1. COOL! Sounds good! Daryl
  2. Congrats!!! Glad to hear you got it running. I still remeber the first motor my brother and I did. We got a wire between the head gasket and head. It didn't turn out as good as yours did, lol. I'll try to explain another way to remove a u-joint, that will remove one cap, instead of both at the same time. You might need help to support the drive shaft on the other end. Set the yoke up so the support is under both sides of the yoke, and the drive shaft is free. You can use a vice, but you don't tighten the vice on the drive shaft or yoke, just for support. Beat the drive shaft down with a BFH(big hammer), and the top u-joint should come out. Flip the whole thing over and put the support on opposite side of yoke and hit drive shaft again. NOTE: Do not hit the drive shaft on tube as it might dent it. Hit it close to the end by the weld. After the yoke is removed, you can put the support under both sides of the u-joint and repeat the above steps. After you remove the joint, clean all 4 holes with emery cloth removing all the rust and also clean the ring grooves if it uses inner clips. If outside clips, make sure surface on yoke and shaft are flap using a file. This will help putting the joint back in. If that doesn't work, bring it over and I'll try to show you what I just tried to explain. After all, I'm only in Michigan. Good luck, Daryl I do know your satisfaction with your engine work. It's cool when it fires up, isn't it!!! ------------------ Smith Racing
  3. I did this on my 70. Not a problem. Robert is correct about the plate.
  4. Quote: <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Kevin Wiles: Just wanted to clear that rumor up. its a pet peeve of mine.</font> Kevin, you have pet peeves? Now there's a good topic for the Non-Tech section! Don't get me started! lmao
  5. Jon, I asked about points in another post. Here is the link. Later, Daryl http://www.firstgenmc.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000714.html
  6. Quote: <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by busmechanic: Mr. Lines </font> Now stop that, your gonna make him feel old. I remember back about 20 years ago when I was only 27, a teenager opened a door for me at a gas station and said, "Let me get that door for you sir". I almost slapped him, but he was just being respectful to his elders. I just told him to watch his language and laughed. Just giving ya a hard time George and George. There sure are a lot of Georges on this site. By the way George, is Granite City near that big hole just off I-80? I got lost there trying to get around rush hour traffic a few months back. Later, Daryl
  7. Here is a link to a site that has the rubber strips. I have a new rear set with a number that reads, 1413-017, and their part number agrees. Go to the pull down menu under Manufacturer, and search Monte Carlo. The rubber strips are on the 2nd page. Later, Daryl http://www.gtrestoration.com/search.asp [This message has been edited by Daryl Smith (edited 07-21-2003).]
  8. Hey, Good to see ya Mike. Keep me posted on the new Dart M. How's it coming along? Did you get the fab-9 in yet? Do you have a cage with that bench seat? If it's not caged, I'd like to see the look on the track manager's face after your first pass. Later, Daryl
  9. I run 9.50 at 145 mph, original body, glass, dash, head liner, and door panels. The rest has been modified a little. ------------------ Smith Racing Web Site
  10. Daryl Smith

    new here

    Glad to see a new convert, lol. You're gonna love it here. Welcome, Daryl
  11. The best penetrating oil I have found is called "Kroil". If it can be loosened with oil, this is the stuff. The label says it creeps into 1 millionth of an inch. It works! I can get an 800 number for tomorrow if you're interested. Later, Daryl
  12. Congrats Lloyd, and thanks for taking on this responsibility. I am lost when it comes to body work, so I usually pay to have it done. Looking forward to your input. Thanks again, Daryl ------------------ Smith Racing Web Site
  13. JJ, It looks like Chevrolet didn't add an engine code until 72 on the Montes. Here is a link to kevin's page. Good luck, Daryl http://members.carol.net/kevinwiles/vin.htm ------------------ Smith Racing Web Site
  14. JJ, On some cars it is possible to find out the correct engine for the car by de-coding the VIN on the dash. One of the digits in the VIN is the engine code. I'm not sure if that's true for your Monte. I'll do some reserch. Later, Daryl ------------------ Smith Racing Web Site
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