Clever Idiot

Just wanted to get some experienced opinions. Looking at my steering, I'm trying to decide which way to go. I know eventually I want a quicker steering box, the dream is to put a r&p system in. Right now my focus is to get it on the road as quickly as possible, but at the same time I don't want to waste putting things back together only to take them apart later. I feel like the rack and pinion upgrade can wait; it's a major expense difference and I might be happy enough with just a quicker steering box. I won't know for sure until I'm actually driving it again. From what I can tell, I can get all new steering linkage for much cheaper than an r&p system, which leaves only the steering box as a variable expense (I'm going to need a new steering pump regardless). I've never rebuilt a steering box before, but I found which seem very helpful (I haven't had a chance to watch them all yet). Seems like something I could handle. And I love learning new things. Is it worth it to tackle it myself? Seems like rebuild kits are only about $60, while a new box is a couple hundred (or more) whether it's the stock steering ratio or a fast ratio. I'm wondering if there are any hidden pitfalls to avoid when rebuilding it myself, or if rebuilding it to a stock ratio won't take out the slop that I remember. I hate steering deadband. I'm assuming a fast ratio box eliminates that deadband - anyone with such a box that can tell me otherwise? Thanks for the guidance, as always.

Sorry I haven't responded yet - been working out of country. The stuff I got was gun-style. And as for the squeaking, I think just re-greasing them should help? I'm no guru though.

Ok, got it. It looked like there were some posts missing from the thread. Thanks for clearing it up.

Bolting on the BMR stuff, searched for this - are these numbers all inch-pounds then?

Will do. It will probably be a month or so before I get the radiator core support blasted/coated, front suspension mounted, fenders hung, and *then* the hood so I can have everything there to line up and finish bolting down the body to the frame. And there will definitely be pictures of the first time it's looked close to a car in... jeez, 8 years??

Well, life happened and I got busy, so I was able to call BMR Monday. The guy I talked to echoed what y'all were saying: a synthetic grease because the petrol-based ones soften the poly bushings. Here's what they sell/use: Super Lube BMR linky Got the same stuff at NAPA for $10/tube, saved me $5 and from driving up to Seffner (about an hour from me and mostly open when I'm at work).

Decided to go with the resto service Andreas mentioned - Wilson Antique Car Parts. Blasted, powder coated my choice of gloss black, new rivets, new springs installed, oiled, and wrapped for shipping like they were going to be dropped directly from the airplane! It was no small feat getting all the wrapping off, but I'm glad for it. Those things could have survived an Ace Ventura-style treatment. And they look fantastic: Hard to get a detailed picture showing everything since they're so black without a ton of light. This was just with the camera flash inside.

Man I have that exact compressor and I know exactly what you mean. I ended up always having to use a pry bar to pop one of the hooks down a couple coils so I could orient the top piece vertically and drop it out that way. The rectangular block is juuuuuuust a hair too big to fit through the stock shock hole the way it's supposed to be used in the spring. Good luck with the other side. I've always had to throw my very best swear words at it.

Hey, I'm looking to put on the new BMR parts today (if I can), so I'm wondering what the proper assembly grease is for poly bushings so I can check the local parts store for it. BMR's website gives you the option of ordering a 14oz tube of something, but they don't specify anywhere what it is other than 'grease'. Same for the installation instructions - they tell you to put in 3-4 pumps, or 5-6 depending on the part, but they only refer to it as grease. No specs, no descriptions. The closest I can find is they sell SuperLube on their site under the 2010-2013 Camaro section. I could call them and ask them directly, but they're closed on weekends. I'd rather not wait until Monday because I have some time this weekend that I want to take advantage of. I'll wait if I have to (doing it right is more important than doing it now, obviously), but if I can have both that would be great.

This build is inspiring!

Can someone tell me the difference between the AGR 12:1 steering box that Summit sells for $370 and the Delphi 12.7:1 steering box that OPG sells for $600? CPP apparently also has them, but no prices are listed on the page. And I also have no idea what the differences are between the 500 series, 400 series, and 600 series. From what I can tell, the 600 series is applicable to our cars. I've seen others here reference a Delphi 670; the page says their 500 series are 14:1, and the 400 series are for... trucks? I guess? I'm trying to weigh the costs vs benefits of rebuilding the stock with new linkage from Hotchkis and a fast-ratio box, or rack and pinion. I know I eventually want R&P because I want a modern feel, but I also want to get this girl on the road ASAP.

Awesome, thanks again!

Great! Thanks. Looks like I'm just missing the capture nuts - the hardware in the shock box included 2 washers, 2 bushings, 2 nuts, and 2 bolts. Should there be a nut on the backside of the bottom washer/bushing?

Anyone have pictures of what their front shocks look like installed? I'm trying to see if I need to get more hardware for installation than what came in the shock box. Plus the proper way the bushings and washers go on. I thought I had pictures of mine before I pulled them, but no luck.

Hm. I only have two. Only 4 points on the car have bolts in them, but all of them have bushings between the frame and the body. Were these supposed to go in somewhere and I missed them? Do they go in all the body mount points?

This reminded me to look at mine because I haven't bolted all mine on yet. Where do the cone-like metal sleeves go? These:

Yeah, I'd be livid! I'm thinking I'll pay the extra cash, and have the two or three guys at the hood hinge repair place do them. Their email was a personal response detailing the process. I don't get the impression they're a huge operation. Down the road I'd love those billet hinges, but right now I want this beast on the road ASAP.

Good GOD!! I wonder if the my hinges hand rebuilt will hold better. That rivet-failing story has me nervous about any newly mass manufactured stuff.

Ok, so I finally got around to getting a price quote from the hood hinge repair guys. Good price for what they do, but still significantly more expensive than repro hinges via OPG and springs via GM Direct ($10.10/spring). Thoughts? I don't want to cut corners, but I don't want to blow money either. Repair route would be my original hinges blasted, re-riveted, powder coated, and new springs. Repops from OPG would be lacking powder coating but that's it.

Awesome! Thanks, Bill!

I think I found the difference. It looks like the KingTek rear kit is not C5 brakes. I'm guessing smaller rotors, because it's saying you only need a minimum 15" wheel. That explains the huge price difference; SSBC has similar prices for comparable rotors.

OH! Yeah, SSBC, I've heard of them before. Derp!

Yeah, the KingTek's only listing their tall spindle kits right now, but I've seen the stock/short spindle kits in the past, and our models listed. The two KingTek kits are identical other than the spindle-to-caliper bracket. This is the proper hub and bracket kit for short spindles. Baer is what I was considering for a long time, but the expense and proprietary nature of them led me down this path. I like the idea of being able to go into a local parts store and pick up a stock C5 caliper/pads/rotors if something needs replacing down the line. Haven't heard of the Stainless Steel Brake Company; I'll check them out. As for rims, I'm planning on 18s - Boss 338 gray. I'm going to make sure they'll fit with this, but the brakes are priority. I want some BIG stoppers on there.

I'm trying to find a difference between these two rear disc brake kits. Maybe some extra eyes can help? Kore3 C5 rear disc with drum-in-hat parking brake for 12-bolts eBay KingTek C5 rear disc with e-brake for 12-bolts Anyone dealt with KingTek before? Looks like the same components to me. Their front brake kits look identical other than the Kore3 calipers are gray and have the Kore3 logo on them. Not much price difference in the front kits ($930 for Kore3, $900 for KingTek). But a huge price difference for the rear kits. Over 4k transactions and 98% rating seems pretty safe; I guess I'm just wondering where do I go if something goes wrong, and is double the price on the rears worth that? Kore3 front kit for stock spindles KingTek front kit for tall spindles (stock spindle same price, just different brackets, not listed right now for some reason).

Bill, I don't see myself doing coil-overs. At least not at first. Maybe if I've got everything else done and I still want to tweak the stance a little more. I like the way yours sits, though. That's kind of what I was thinking, like the El Camino and yours: opening up the rear wheel well and showing the wheel a little more than stock. For spacers, you mean something like this? Those airbags are less expensive than I thought they would be. I kinda like that idea for if I'm hauling a bunch of stuff in the trunk; looks like I could just pump them up and keep the butt off the ground.