72 Monte Carlo
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Posts posted by 72 Monte Carlo
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I've never seen the original movie, now I'm going to have to buy it.
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Just set the cluster close enough to be able to plug the wiring harness connector for the instrument cluster into it, and then you should be able to see if all the bulbs are lit or if some need the bulb flipped 180 deg.
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RIP Jim.
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I called Lunati and told the tech that if I buy a cam kit, I didn't want the lifters if they are inferior and made in China. He said they use Morel lifters.
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My Hooker Competition ceramic coated headers have 3.5" collectors and the outside diameter of the primaries is 2", so I assume that the internal diameter of the primaries are 1 7/8". I want to make sure that I can use them with the cam I end up buying.
Thanks!
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I'm ready to buy a cam, but would like to hear from people that has installed the 60202 (10110702 262*) cam and if they are happy with it, or if they wished they had installed the 268* Lunati cam. I'd like to hear from the ones that have installed the 60203 (10110703 268*) cam, to find out how the street manners are of that cam and if they installed a stall converter since it's recommended to run a 2500 rpm stall converter.
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Who here is running the Lunati 10110702 262 cam in their big block? Do you like it or do you wish you would've went with the 10110703 268 cam?
I just don't think I can swing a roller cam right now, especially since I need to buy a stall converter for the trans, and I'm just going to install new main and rod bearings, new piston rings and throw a hone to the cylinders. The cylinders and pistons look great, but since I have the motor torn down, I might as well freshen it up internally.
I'm going to buy some new Comp Cams roller tip rockers and 7/16" pushrods, GM Delphi hydraulic lifters, valve springs, keepers, etc to match the camshaft.
If the damn roller cam lifters weren't so frickin' expensive for a set of Howards (Morel) lifters, because I don't know if I want to trust the Lunati lifters, I'd go the roller cam way. The cam and lifters would be around $660 and then I still have to buy the rockers and pushrods ($202), valve springs retainers, and locks ($?). I still have to buy the main and rod bearings ($100), and the piston rings ($60 or so).
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I plan on driving the car and have fun with it. I want to make sure that it will blow the doors of my friend's 79 Z28 with his 383 stroker engine.
I was looking at Lunati's # 10110702 and # 10110703 hyd flat tappet cams, and also Tim's hyd roller cam # 20110548 and also at # 20110547 and # 20110549.
I noticed that Lunati has a flat tappet solid lifter cam # 30110501 - Solid Flat Tappet. Good replacement for LS6 motors with very strong mid range and top end torque and HP. Needs 2200-2500 RPM stall converter, headers, 9:1 compression and 3.55 gearing. Good idle.; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 272/272; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 238/238; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .550/.550; LSA/ICL: 110/106; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .020/.022; RPM Range: 2200-6500
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My friend said I should consider the LS6 450 HP solid lifter camshaft, but I think it's on 450 horse in the 454 engine, and like 375 HP in the 396/402.
Anyone else running an aftermarket solid lifter flat tappet cam, and if so, how do you like it compared to a hydraulic lifter flat tappet cam?
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Do you think if you went with the 20110549 roller cam with the 112 LSA, that you might have been happier with it?
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Lunati Tech chatted with me and he said that the Voodoo Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam - Chevrolet Big Block 282/290 # 20110712 on a LSA 112 would be a great cam for our heavy cars. - Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam. High performance street cam. Likes upgraded intake, carb and exhaust. Needs 2800 RPM stall converter in most cases. Requires 9.5:1 compression for maximum performance.; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 282/290; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 231/239; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .600/.600; LSA/ICL: 110/106; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd; RPM Range: 2200-5800
I do like the sound of Tim's car though - # 20110548 Street/Strip Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam - Chevrolet Big Block 287/298 Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam. Good for high performance street and street rod use. Good mid range torque and HP. Fair idle.; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 287/298; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 220/230; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .535/.545; LSA/ICL: 110/108; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd; RPM Range: 1800/5200
The Lunati Tech said this cam would be a good cam too # 20110549 - Street/Strip Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam - Chevrolet Big Block 290/300 - Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam. Excellent mid range torque and HP. Needs 2000 RPM stall converter, headers, 9.5:1 compression ratio and 3.73 gearing. Fair idle.; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 290/300; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 232/242; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .578/.595; LSA/ICL: 112/110; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd; RPM Range: 2000-6000 - I wouldn't think this cam would need anything for vacuum since it has a 112 LSA, but the tech thought a vacuum can would be needed for power brakes.
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Tim,
Have you had a chance to drive your car with the new roller cam in it? If so, how is the vacuum for your power brakes?
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I plan on having my 72 Monte done this fall/winter, so I will be coming to my first ever FGMCC meet this next year.
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The Lunati Voodoo cams are as follows;
10110701
Int 256*/Exh 262*
@.050 Int 213/Exh 219
Gross lift Int .515/Exh .530
LSA/ICL 112/108
1000-5500 rpm range
10110702
Int 262*/Exh 268*
@.050 Int 219/Exh 227
Gross lift Int .530/Exh .542
LSA/ICL 112/108
1400-5800 rpm range
10110703
Int 268*/Exh 276*
@.050 Int 227/Exh 233
Gross lift Int .542/Exh .554
LSA/ICL 110/106
1800-6200 rpm range
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Unfortunately I cannot afford to spend twice the money on a roller cam when compared to a hydraulic or mechanical flat tappet cam.
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I just bought a 70 Chevelle 402 350 HP 2 bolt main complete motor. It has cylinder heads # 3964290 - 69-70 oval port, closed chamber 101cc, and 10.25:1 compression pistons in it.
I'm wanting to put a new cam, lifters, valve springs, and roller tip rockers in it.
My 72 Monte Carlo currently has a 396 SBC Stroker motor with only cam break-in time and 1/4 of road trip on it. It has a turbo 350 trans, 28" tall rear tires, and a 12 bolt posi with 2.73 gears. I plan on getting either 3.31 or 3.55 gears for it later on.
I've got Hooker Competition ceramic 2" primaries long tube headers, an Edelbrock Performer 2-0 intake, and a Holley 3310 780 cfm carb for it.
I've been looking at the Lunati Voodoo 60201 and 60202 cams. The lunati tech said that I should go with the 60201 cam because of it being a heavy car, and the rpm of that cam is 1000 - 5500 rpm.
I want it to be a good street driver with a slight lope at idle, but it needs to have some great torque too.
Does any fellow Monte owners have any sound bites of these cams, and real world experience with them?
The last big block 402 I had was in a 74 Chevy Cheyenne Super 4x4 lifted shortbox pickup, with 3.73 gears, 4" lift, and 35" tires. I had a Crane 272-H10 cam in it and it was a torque beast.
Any other camshafts that I should look at?
Thanks for any advice that you can provide.
Doug
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You might download and try using the new Microsoft Chromium Edge. It works like Chrome, but it seems to be a little bit snappier browser.
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On 11/19/2019 at 11:30 AM, Leghome said:
You can make your own by connecting the outer terminals and the inner terminals together with jumpers. This is what I did and then tucked the regulator connector up under the fender. If anyone wants to go back to a regulator the wiring is there to do so.
Larry,
Are you supposed to jumper the two outside terminals together, and the inner two terminals together to bypass the factory regulator setup?
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I have a brand new BA9S LED green bulb for the 1445 heater control panel bulb, but it will not light up the LED bulb at all, no matter which way the bulb is in the socket. But when I put the regular halogen 1445 bulb in the socket, it lights up. I'm not sure why it won't light up the LED bulb.
I'm assuming it's because there's not enough draw on that bulb socket, and it won't light up the LED. I'm thinking of converting it from the 1445 bulb socket to a 194 bulb socket.
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It sounds like you either have a direct short in the fan speed switch, or a pinched wire that is shorting to ground.
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I called and talked to OPGI and asked when they thought that these hoods will be available. She said that the manufacturer told them 30-90 days.
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Does anyone have a good used working glove box light socket assembly for sale?
It looks like mine is missing a contact for the bulb.
Thanks!
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Has anybody on here converted the heater control panel 1445 push in bulb socket to a 194 bulb push in socket connector? If so, which one did you use?
Thanks!
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Getting closer to being done with the small mechanical stuff. I only have a few things left to do;
1. heater control panel LED bulb, and LED glove box bulb
2. install a new throttle cable.
3. install new bushings in the rear control arms.
4. Paint the dash with SEM interior Black paint - it's currently factory green, but I'm going with Black Interior
Then it's finish the body work on both front fenders, and passenger door, and then it's ready for etching primer on the bare metal body.
402 BB rebuild
in Engine Tech
Posted
I bought a 70 Chevelle 402 330 HP engine and I'm in the process of rebuilding it. The only issue it had was a broken rocker arm on the #7 cylinder.
I just had the crankshaft turned and polished and it's now .010 on the mains and .010 on the rods. The crankshaft is the OEM stock crank.
I've always used Clevite 77 main and rod bearings in the past. I have heard good and bad about King bearings from other forums, but if I go with Clevite 77 bearings, should I go with the H or P series bearings?
I ran Clevite P bearings in a built 402 I had 30 years ago and never had an issue with them.