McCall72

To add to what Steve said, they are made by Trim Parts Inc. and the quality is top notch.

This is what Partsvoice.com had for those #'s... Part# Type Price Quantity Description CT Vehicle YE AR 996147 NOS $245 22 LEFT HAND MIRROR ALL CUTLASS 9614195 NOS $438 22 Mirror, outside LH remote control, with metal adjust knob CH FULL SIZE 73 73 9614195 NOS $ 22 REAR VIEW MIRROR P B MIRROR ASM., chrome 73 74 Search again

Get a build manual, it'll show you the exact placement of the stickers down to the window price sheet.

I've tried using just about everything to clean my old, original, cloudy stainless steel. Never Dull worked okay, but you could steel see the water stains and cloudyness. I was finally able to get NOS looking results by doing the following: Got myself 2 (creates a wider buffing surface) medium Mibro buffing wheels and Mibro's #3 and #6 polishing compound. Since I'm restoring the my car right now, all the drip and reveal molding is off the car, so what better time to do it? I installed the 2 buffing wheels side by side on my bench grinder, as stated above, this give you a wider buffing surface. I start with the #3 compound which is more of a cleaner that is safe enough for stainless steel. I coated the buffing wheels liberally with the compound and slid the molding back and forth all the while appling LIGHT pressure to the wheel-let the buffer and the compound do all the work. Take your time and be careful not to let your molding slip out of your hand and get tangled in your bench grinder! After buffing with the #3 compound, wipe the piece down removing most of compound off the piece. Now you are ready to move on the compound # 6. This is what really brings out the shine! Again, coat the the wheel liberally with # 6 compound. Slide your molding against the wheel remembering to apply only light pressure. Once you have buffed the whole piece, use a polishing towel to remove the excess compound and stand back and enjoy the brightness of your NOS looking stainless! Remember to take your time and be careful not to let your molding slip out of your hands! Oh yeah, wear old pants too as the compound gets all over your pants. I guy I know paid 200 dollars to have his molding polished for his Chevelle. I got all the stuff I needed for this project at Lowes for about 20 dollars and it took me about 3 hours total to do the front reveal molding and drip molding. Good luck!

Yes, Plastic Dip. You can find it at Lowes. It also comes in an aresol spray can. I've been using it on my sandblasted bumper brackets as orginally they had a rubber like coating on them as well. Works good on the orginal plug wire looms as well.

I gave 75 dollars for a near mint set of trim back in 2003 from someone on this board. www.oldmusclecars.com has the felts for them. 1-800-722-4828 page 12-3 of their catalog part # RWFS-345 8 piece set Monte Carlo Full set with Special Moldings 69.95. If you tell them you have the wide chrome, they will know exactly what you are talking about. Oh yeah, their online Monte Carlo catalog is listed as the 1968-77 Chevelle catalog. If you order from them, ask them to send you a catalog. It got about everything you need for 70-72 Monte Carlo's.

Son of a gun. Some of you guys know everything!

Sounds like George was a heck of a nice guy..My condolences go out to his family. God bless.

I know exactly how you feel. I gave my car to a piss-ant two years ago to restore for me, who promised it back to me in 3 months. The car sat and sat and sat until I really started to ride is tail about it. Worst part is that my dumb self paid him up front because I'm the kind of guy who doesn't like to owe anyone any money. I'm getting married in May and he has promised me that the car will be ready by then. He too is bad about not calling back and won't work on the car unless you go by the shop and demand that he get on it! Someone told me a long time ago that having a car rebuilt is the most aggravating hobbies you can get into for one reason: you are dealing with car people. Good luck man... Edit: do take a friend with you or a fire arm. This guy sounds like he's begging to get pistol-whipped.

I did my 72 grill a while back. I taped it off like you did, and used Argent silver with a thick clear coat. I also lightly scuffed the surface that was to be painted. The taping took a day and an age, but it turned out GREAT!

Boy was I ever burnt on chroming. Guilford Plating in Greensboro, NC totally ruined my rear Bumper, and headlamp bezels. I ended up just skipping the chroming experience again and got NOS. Costs more, but a heck of a lot less of a headache in the end.

Interesting, but I'll stick with POR-15.

Thanks for the info guys. Charlie- is the steering column black also, or is it sandlewood too?

Did 1972 steering wheels come in any different colors than just black. I'm wondering if I should start searching for a tan one to match my new dash color.

Gremlins? I think if you shine a bright light on them they turn to stone or something... As for the sending unit, mine has the same trouble and I've been tried grounding the wire in several different spots with no luck. I even changed out the fuel tank (badly rusted) and sending unit and the guage still shows 1/4 full at the most. I think I'm going to try a new circuit board next.

Does any one have these instructions that ejw71 sent you?? He seems to have deleted his copy!!! Thanks in advance!

I tried the silver paint pen, but I went on kind of streaky. Instead, I got some chrome paint (which we all know is just silver), and a flat, and firm paintbrush. I sprayed some paint into the cap of the spraypaint, and brushed it on. It worked out very well and was a pretty close match. Good luck!

Thanks for all of your helpful information everyone! I think I will check out NAPA and see if they have that FUSOR adheshive. ------------------ A.N. McCall 1972 Monte Carlo "Monte Carlo. There is no substitute."

Has anyone ever installed patch panels on the lower rockers behind the front wheels? If so would you recommend welding them on or is it ok to rivet them on?

I did a total brake rebuild (rotors, calipers, pads, booster, etc.) on my 72 Monte. Now the fricken' brake light on the dash stays on!! Does anybody know how to it to go out besides taking the bulb out? Thanks!

There isnt any damage to the car. Rear control arm and bushings sounds like the remedy. Thanks for the info!

O.K. mechanics out there....I replaced the old rear coil springs with TRW heavy duty coils...and installed new shocks. Now why is the rear end still sagging? Would replacing the front coils make the front end come down some? I appreciate any suggestions. By the way this is on a 1972 Monte Carlo.