AndyBill402

I would like to add a transmission cooler to my 71 stock Monte Carlo 350. Is the correct size hose 5/16" or 3/8"?

Just a quick question. What is capacity in gallons of the factory gas tank on the 71-72 Monte Carlo, and is it the same as the 70?

Are the common paper based fuel filters really compatible with E-10, the ethanol gas we all have to use now? An example of a paper fuel filter would be the Purolator F2111. It has a plastic housing and it's translucent so one can see when it's dirty.

One of the relays sits atop the evaporator core. The other two relays are to the right of the core on the firewall. The picture is still pending from Footballubet.

I've got a picture of 3 relays in the picture file on my computer. If someone will tell me how to attach the picture, I will do so and some generous soul out there can tell me what these relays are. They are attached to the car in the correct place.

Here is a picture of a factory hitch for a 1973 Monte Carlo. It's GM number #994480. Will this hitch also fit a 1972 Monte?

I need to control the night lights in a number of aftermarket gauges. I thought about adding a relay for this purpose, but I'll need to find a good place to tap off for the control voltage. This is in a 72 Monte. Expertise please.

Has anyone installed the new Demon carburetor called the Street Demon? It has an unusual shape and one model even comes with a phenolic fuel bowl. It's advertised to fit either a square bore or spread bore intake. I've been a Q'jet guy from Day 1, but I think this new carburetor may have potential. I would be grateful to hear any feedback, and how well it hooks up to a stock 350 on a 71 Monte. Thank you one and all.

At one time I knew the answers to this. I've got an Edelbrock Q'jet on my 72 Monte. It has a 383 stroker motor with a mild cam. It bogs down just off idle. It's just enough of a hesitation to annoy me. Now I know why some people refer to the Q'jet as the "Quadrabog". Otherwise the car seems to run fine. It's the only Q'jet I've ever had with this issue. How do I fix it?

Strangba, Thankyou for the tip. I hadn't thought of that. I checked the squirt, and both squirters do appear to be equal and strong. I've read where both a lean or rich condition can cause a bog on acceleration. Do you have any more suggestions?

My newly rebuilt Q'jet has a very slight off-idle stumble. You know, you're at the stop light and when you press on the gas it starts to go and then bogs down for a second before taking off again. It's driving me nutso. What could cause this?

I was thinking this might be a good time to drain the fluid, drop the transmission pan and replace the screen. That should take care of any major leak from the speedo input. Thanks for the information. Since I've never done this before, the whole thing is a learning curve. I'll go very slow and hope I don't mess up.

Yes, it reads 402 after my name, but this Monte has a TH350. It was my mistake for not mentioning it. I purchased a steel housing unit off ebay, but since I've never replaced one I would greatly appreciate some pointers on how to go about replacing it. I'm losing about a pint of fluid every two days. I know it's coming from the speedometer input because I jacked up the car and wiped clean everything in the vicinity of the leak. Within two minutes I could see the transmission fluid seeping out the speedomenter input. So, does anyone have instructions that will help me replace the speedometer housing?

I'm leaking transmission fluid from the speedometer input. How do I fix it?

I'm a big fan of Q'jets. I probably have 7 or 8 of them. Although more complicated than other carbs, with a little patience and attention to detail they can be tuned to a much finer state than any other carburetor. For all out racing, a Holley type carb is still King, but from stop light to stop light and cubic inch for cubic inch, I've outrun a lot of other cars with Holleys and AFB's installed on them. I may have the exact number you're seeking, but is that number the only one you will consider? The only difference in most of these 70-72 4MV Q'jets were the rods, jets and piston spring, all of which can be changed to suit your needs. The secondary hanger was also a factor, but not a big one.

When Detroit specifies a particular weight of oil, it's always a compromise. Some cars will be driven in Alaska while others will live in Arizona. I've always used Rotella T 15W40 (the old SL rated version) in all of my Montes with excellent results. When the air temperature is north of 95 a regular 30 weight oil looks as thin as water in my engines. The Rotella T doesn't bump my oil pressure any that I can see. I have to go to a 20 weight oil to see any real change. That said, a 50 weight oil is usually best in race engines and air cooled engines.

I want to install a trailer hitch on my 71 Monte. I'll be pulling a 2-motorcycle trailer. The total weight including the trailer and bikes will be under 2000 pounds. There must be something out there. Anybody know where I can get a ready made hitch?

Cny first gen 71, I bench bled the m.c. per the instructions that came with the m.c. It involved attaching some plastic adapters where the metal lines screw in and then attaching a length of clear vinyl tubing to each adapter. I routed the tubing back into the resevoirs. I filled the resevoir about 2/3's full of new brake fluid and then slowly pushed in the plunger again and again until no more air came out into the tubing. Then, I capped the plastic adapters and took the m.c. over to the car where I stalled it. I then bled the brakes. I'm now going to do it again. I can't find anything wrong.

Tomorrow I'll check for any leaks. Good thought. The m.c. looks exactly like the old one right down to the bore, so I assume it's correct. If I have to take it off again, I will double check. I read up on testing the booster. It appears I have a good booster. Now, can someone tell how I know if my proportioning valve is working correctly? The little button on the valve doesn't seem to want to move with the engine off. I haven't tried it with the engine on. What's that little button for, anyway?

There's a little "button" on the front of my proportioning valve. It's a factory valve. Don't I need to push in that button during any brake bleed?

I didn't know where else to post this question. I've changed out the master cylinder and the two rear brake cylinders. They were leaking. The front calipers are dry. I bench bled the m.c. I bled the brakes with a Phoenix DIY. All the air is gone. Still no pedal, no matter what I do. I thought it might be the booster because I do hear a hiss when I press the brakes with the engine off. Using my Mity Vac I pulled 15" of vacuum on the booster. After nearly 30 minutes it's still holding strong at 15". I presume that means my booster is good. The one-way valve is also good. I can blow air through it in one direction, but not the other. So, what's wrong here? I need some hi powered help.

This is not an option anymore, but several years back when I read that Rotella T 15W40 SL rated oil was going to be replaced with the SM version that severely reduced the zinc content, I purchased 240 gallons of the SL oil before it became extinct. I also purchased 50 gallons of the SL rated Rotella Synthetic 5W40. I've been using these two oils ever since in all my oldie goldie cars as well as my lawn equipment. My 67 VW Beetle has 150k miles on it with the old Rotella T and I swear she still does not burn a drop of oil (I hope I didn't just jinx muyself). When I eventually run out of Rotella I'll use Brad Penn oil which I can buy locally.

Summit sells this power steering bracket, item number SUM-340100. Link http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-340100/ It replaces the original power steering brackets and is advertised to fit the Gen 1 small block. Has anyone installed this item? Does it work well? I would absolutely Love to get rid of my factory power steering brackets. One of the original brackets bolts to the cylinder head. It's designed for the factory exhaust manifolds. If you run headers you need to either make a special bracket or modify the factory bracket. The Summit bracket does away with all of that.

I have a small coolant leak around the 2nd intake bolt from the front on the passenger side of my 71 Monte small block. There's a coolant passage right next to this bolt. I think the coolant is leaking past the gasket and up the bolt and out. I'm presently using Fel-Pro #1204 intake gaskets. They have the heat crossover block shield on them. I'm using the very common aluminum Edelbrock Performer intake and AFR heads with normal sized intake ports. The Fel-Pro 1204's are supposed to be fine for both iron and aluminum, but I would like to try something else when I replace the intake gaskets. What reputable intake gaskets with the heat crossover block is available in another brand.

Thanks to everyone for the information. I was going to work on the car this weekend, but it's raining and the temperature is going to be in the low 30's. So, I guess I'll just lose some more xmission fluid until it warms up a bit. I have a small pail strategically placed under the leak. BTW, I can't tell exactly where the leak is except that it drips off the speedo shaft where it screws to the transmision.