AndyBill402

Mo, Your idea of checking the clicker torque wrench might just be brilliant. The next time I install some cylinder heads, I'll try your trick. I don't see any reason it shouldn't work. Thanks, Andrew Offutt

On the bunged out bolt holes, you can get a heli-coil kit at ACE and put the exact same size bolt back in. That's because the hole is drilled and tapped for the heli-coil. an original size bolt then screws into the heli-coil. The fix will be stronger than the original metal if you do it right. As for the torque wrench, here's a suggestion. Don't use one on your tranny pan. It's not necessary. Using a socket wrench, put your hand on the wrench up close to the socket and, using your wrist only, tighten the bolts in a criss-cross fashion. If you use the right gasket, it won't leak, you'll get done in time for diner, and you won't ever break a bolt. On items that do require a torque wrench, I use the old pointer kind. It lasts forever, and never goes out of adjustment. I have a clicker torque wrench, but I'm afraid to use it, although I would use it if I had an easy way of checking it. Andrew Offutt

BKLYMONTE You have provided some great information here. We all thank you. As I understand it, once you provided proper clearance for the GV o/d unit, the vibration went away. Is that correct? Thus, am I correct in assuming that the drive angles were fine all along? I'm hot for one these units. After providing proper clearance, how does the tunnel look? Did you have to really whack on it? Andrew Offutt P.S. Did you have any trouble shortening the driveshaft, and didn't you have to weld on a special U-joint connector?

BKLYNMONTE You mentioned the drive line angles might be out of whack. Did this occur when you installed the GV o/d? I want to install one of these myself. The overall impression I get from you is that you're glad you did it, but it didn't come without some problems. Andrew Offutt

BKLYNMONTE, You mentioned that your tunnel required some messaging in order to get the GV 0/d to fit. Would you please elaborate on that for those of use who also want to install the GV o/d? Just lay it out like it happened. What did you have to do to get the thing to fit right? Andybill402

Here's a tip that some may find useful. Whenever I go buy a car part at one of the "computer" stores, if I know that the part I want is the same for the same year Chevelle, I tell them I have a Chevelle. I get the right part pronto. If I then ask them if this item is the same for the same year Monte, they often tell me they don't even have a listing for that part. Curious, but true. Andrew Offutt

What stall speed and brand do you guys recommend for the following - 402 big block bored .030 over - mild performance cam 214 I and 224 E at .050 lift - 28 inch rear tires - stock intake and exhaust - TH400 transmission with a gear vendors overdrive and a 3.55 rear (overall final ratio in o/d is 2.77) I put in a 2500 stall I got from TPI at the Turkey Rod Run. It's called the GM25. I could feel it slip at highway speeds as my engine speed was only around 2300 rpm. Now, I have a factory stall converter in the car and it wants to creep through the intersection at traffic lights. Andrew Offutt

The TH400 uses an electric kickdown. The switch is located above the gas pedal. You will notice, if you have a big block and still have the factory Q'jet, that the kickdown portion of the throttle braket has been removed by the factory. That's because the factory intake manifold doesn't allow enough room for the full-sized bracket to swing in an arc without hitting the manifold. Thus, Montes (and I think Chevelles) that came with a big block all had TH400's.