Jump to content

MC1of80

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,261

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    115

 Content Type 

Posts posted by MC1of80

    flex plate cover question

    in Drivetrain Tech

    Posted

    Do you know if you have the original transmission? Sounds like you possibly have a 4x4 case that was built for a car. Are the holes threaded? If so, you do. The 4x4 cases had thick, like the case, aluminum inspection covers bolted to them. Hope this helps.

    SBC / Muncie Question ...

    in Drivetrain Tech

    Posted

    Hi Mike. I believe your 383 will be of the older 2piece rear main seal as compared to the zz4’s one piece seal. Which has a smaller bolt pattern for the flywheel. You probably know that and is why you say you need a new flywheel. I would go aftermarket. Any name brand, preferably not made in “China” would be good. People have their favorites. Hays, McLeod, zoom, centerforce etc. good luck!

    402 Big Block identification help

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    Hi. From what I can tell you have a service replacement block- ie the CE. The 2 is usually the year- 72. Is it a 4 bolt main? Some service replacements were. As for the heads they are closed chamber rectangle port heads. Same heads were used on the 70 LS6. A big port head for a small cube engine (the 402)

    Assembly plants for 1970?

    in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum

    Posted

    Hi Dan. From what I recall the 70s were built in Van Nuys, Flint, and Baltimore. I have a Baltimore built monte- build sheet and a Flint built SS- no build sheet. My 71 402 4speed is a Baltimore car- no build sheet. (I think the former owner took it) My brothers 72 was built in Van Nuts and has 2 build sheets so far. I don’t know if Monte’s were build in Leeds or KC. Can’t wait to find out.

    • Like 1

    UMI LSX motor mounts will not work with our Montes

    in Modifiers

    Posted

    I used the GM performance pan kit from Summit when I swapped an LS into a G-body. The whole set up was then installed into a 77 Lemans grans Safari wagon when I bent the g-body. I used everything from the g-body swap. Frame/engine mounts, headers and pan fit both chassis. I believe the kit uses the hummer/CTS-v style pan. The front of the pan is like 11/2-2 deep.

    • Like 1

    1970 door panels.

    in Interior Tech

    Posted

    Does anyone know who has “exact” reproduction door panels, assembled for the 70’s? I have a brand new set of PUI assembled panels that I purchased a while ago and I’m not installing them. The “pleats” in the center are flat compared to the originals and there is “chrome piping” Around the “pleats” which my original interior doesn’t have. My panels have the typical damage at the bottom corners and the carpet is faded. I’m willing to sell the “new” panels, still in box if anyone is interested. Oh, they are black. Lol thanks for any help.

    Motor mounts got here! ... now what?

    in Modifiers

    Posted

    I have had luck in the past changing the frame mounts with an open end wrench through the hole in the crossmember. A little patience is needed there. Also have had luck jacking up the car, removing the tires and using an extension with a socket and a swivel on some into the frame where the lower control arm mounts. You may not need to remove the tires but it made the job easier for a “big” guy like me. Lolol good luck.

    Stick shift

    in SS 454

    Posted

    I have to agree with Paul. With that being said, you state your drivetrain is numbers matching. To me, that is just as good as paperwork in proving your cars originality as an SS. I purchased my 70 SS without the engine and trans. A flint car, so no build sheet to prove it. But all else is there. I would keep your car original with only bolt on mods. Good luck on whatever you choose and look forward to seeing it!

    Fuel Pressure Regulator

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    There should be no need for a pressure regulator with a mechanical pump unless it is a monster. I have a holley 170gph mechanical pump on my monte and do not have or need a regulator. If you are going to switch to an electric pump then a name brand regulator would be best. As far as return line or not. That’s up to you. Either that being said, if you are doing a lot of street driving I would go with a return line to beep the fuel as cool as possible and so the pump won’t “dead head” or have the fuel cavitate. If race only, no return line is necessary. If changing to fuel injection, a return line is recommended. Hope this helps.

    Is my starter bad?

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    First of all, stay calm. Welcome to the world of working on cars. And that was not to be mean. Some starters need to be shimmed. As far as the bolt holes, any configuration will work with your block. Some starters even had one short bolt and one long. If you are not happy with the look of the new starter, see if you can return it. Did you bring your old one with you to match up? Again, the new one you got should be fine. (Without seeing it). If you decide to try the new starter, I have found that one shim between the block and starter is a good starting point. Should the starter “grind” more shims are needed till it stops. Hope this helps.

    Is my starter bad?

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    You are welcome. Yes the bendix is part of the starter. I don’t believe that it is bad though. You say the starter makes a noise and doesn’t engage the flywheel. Usually it is the solinoid that “throws” the bendix out. A new starter is quicker and easier in my opinion. Just my .02.

×
×
  • Create New...