MC1of80
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Posts posted by MC1of80
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Like Joe stated, clean them up and install them.
On "Barn Find" my 71 402 Monte the original manifolds were cracked. Installed a set we had "in stock". After that I installed pypes 2 1/2" head pipes into a (Also in stock) 2 1/2" flow master exhaust system that I removed the flowjunk mufflers and installed a better flowing dynomax ultraflo mufflers. With stock SS tips.
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That is known as the "wide belt" moulding. If it's the one I'm thinking of. You should also have a piece on the quarter panel next to the window on each side for a total of 4 PCs. 2 each side.
They were standard on the 72 custom. Could be ordered as an option from 71-72. Not sure if 70s could be.
My 1971 402 auto "Barn Find" has the wide belt mouldings along with quite a few other options.
Not very common but not rare either.
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32 minutes ago, Dtret said:
That car will probably never see an fgmcc meet. I’m only one person, with a half ton truck. And one car trailer. lol.
You are not the only one towing with a 1500. 😡 Lol. We do have 2 trailers BUT the enclosed is more of a storage/garage. Lol
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Pm sent ....
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Hi Rich.
What is done to the engine? 8 degrees is way too low. Usually 10-14 initial with about 29-34 at 2500 rpm is a good starting point. Each engine has a "sweet" spot with timing that it likes.
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Paint it, install it, enjoy it. 😎
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Remove the driveshaft, cross member and mount. But make sure you drained the pan before this. Lower the back of the trans, remove the cooler lines, kick down wires, shifter linkage, inspection cover, if it's still there, 3 torque converter bolts. With the back of the trans "hanging" you can get to the bell housing bolts. I have a 3 ft extension with a Mac tools impact swivel that I used when I installed transmissions for a living. Aamco and LeeMyles. Lolol a long time ago.
You will have an issue with the headers. The Ears that the inspection coverbolts to will hit both headers. Either twist the trans so one gets past the header then the other or move the back of the trans to one side of the car and lower it that way. I usually cut those ears off of the trans with a sawsall or cutoff wheel. For easier installation and in worst case scenario, removal again. I advise against this IF it is the numbers matching case to the car.
I hope this helps.
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Lol. What are you saying Mark? I have that term patent pending. Lololol
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He is on his way back already with it. Lol.
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Valve guides or seals. Seals usually smoke and clear up on initial start up. Rings usually smoke continuously.
Fouling plugs that bad is usually guides.
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Congratulations! Happy Anniversary 🎉🎂!!! Wishing you many more happy years!!!
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Welcome! Nice Monte! Ask whatever you will. Alot of helpful, knowledgeable people on this site. Thank you for joining.
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Thank you Joe. I didn't remember fully.
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Check to see if the throttle arm, where the idle screw touches is not hitting the body of the carb. Sometimes people bent the arm. If this is the case, bend/ tweak the arm to let the carb ldle lower.
Also disconnect the throttle cable from the arm to see if the cable isn't adjusted too short. Not letting the idle come down.
2 1/2 turns out on a Rochester is where 99% of them like being adjusted to and disconnecting a vacuum line will cause the idle to go higher due to a lean condition being created.
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There is always ported vacuum and constant (manifold) vacuum on carburetors. I believe the tcc does not let the distributor fully advance until the car is fully warmed up. It's been a long time. Lolol
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Always to ported vacuum. Manifold vacuum has the vacuum advance advanced at all times and usually way too far advanced. Where you usually have to have initial timing lower than optimum.
HEI distributors for some reason over advance badly. And usually the centrifugal advance is very slow if you have not changed the advance springs.
I believe your way is leaving performance, milage and efficiency on the table to be gained.
My opinion...
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Same here. No FaKebook.
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43 minutes ago, DragCat said:
This question perplexed me so I tried to research it and I still don't know 🙃 But I did run across 2 (one pictured) where the gauges arent chrome trimmed. So I'll ask the experts why not. Was it an option ? I know before I got it the front turn signal lenses where amber (el camino) because nobody had the clear glass during the rebuild.
Well, the pic is a hodge podge Mark. Lol.
71 steering wheel and 70 headlight knob. BUT if you look close to the right side turn signal indicator you can see the remnants of the chrome surrounding it. It was probably worn off during many years of cleaning.
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Yeah, not 103k ever. Nice car but at least wash and detail it. WTH?!
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1 hour ago, EVC said:
Possibly a simple case of internal cavitation. Defective casting. I'd back pressure the water system and make sure it's clear before installing a new pump. This could be the sign of air getting into the system also.
Ummm, if you change the pump you HAVE to drain the coolant system and open it to air. R+R the pump, refill the coolant system and burp it of air.
Just change the pump and move on to next project. Lolol
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Pop the nose off. Hood and fenders. Align the doors, then reinstall the nose and adjust.
I know it's not easy, but required. Takes time and patience , especially since it's all painted. Do it once and be done with it.
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Ouch! At least you are ok. Sorry she isn't. 😓
Without seeing it in person, definitely a frame change as long as from the firewall back is good. (Aka body tub.) Everything else is bolt on. ALOT of work an also not.
Also a contributing factor is how the drivetrain survived. Engine, transmission, driveshaft and rear differential. If they are all ok, that saves a big chunk of change.
Me, I would rebuild her. Although if you are looking for a replacement, means she went to the scrapyard in the sky.
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Like Steve said, it's letting you know it's time for a rebuild or replacement.
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What drive shaft to use
in Drivetrain Tech
Posted
You will have to measure for a new shaft. The 4L80 is longer than the th400.