Monte

Mine are in the kick panels. I dont remember thier being a vent in them. I would have to check. If you want a photo of them I will get the car out of storage and could e-mail you a photo. If so e-mail me with your address. Monte ------------------ 70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

I put a set of speakers in my kick panels. They were a pain. Because of the size of the magnets I had cut out part of the metal inner structure. If I had to do it all over again, I would have made custom panels to replace the lower panels. Mine do fit flush to the kick panels but I took hours to install. Monte ------------------ 70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

I think there is some information on headers in the engine forum archive. You can get to it from the message board main page. It in the bottom left corner. Monte ------------------ 70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

Ok guys I have posted about this in the past here and other places on the net. I don't mean to come off negative but I am trying to HELP people understand how insurance policies work. I usually get some hate mail (never from anyone here) telling me I don't know what I am talking about, example---their agent says this, they were told that, they gave their insurance company an appraisal so they "know" that is what they will be paid etc, etc, etc. Sometimes people only hear what they want to hear and not the facts. So, first off, I was the auto division manager for a major insurance company for 11 years. I dealt with the "stated value policy" issue many times so I will try to explain how they work. First off, most of you that have gotten an appraisal and have been told you have a "stated value policy" DO NOT. Just because you got an appraisal does not mean that is what you will be paid in the event of a loss. There are very very few companies that write a stated value policy. One of those is Haggarty. There are several others. A stated value policy means you will be paid the "amount stated" in the policy. Most policies written are an "actual cash value" policy. That means you will be paid what ever the actual cash value is of the vehicle as determined by the insurance company. That amount my not be the same as your appraisal. Most of the time the appraisal is used by the insurance company to determine how much "risk" is involved and how much premium to charge. The appraisal is also used to determine the insurance companies "Limit of Liability". That means it is used to determine the "most" that would be paid out by them. It does not mean they wont pay out less. A lot of the appraisals written today are garbage. Most of the time the appraisal is written to match the amount of money "YOU" want on the bottom line and the insurance companies know it. Here is what you need to find if you think you have a stated value policy or a policy that will pay you the amount of your appraisal. Remember a policy is binding contract between you and your insurance company. All of the terms and conditions are spelled out in your contract(policy). So here is what you need to find. Some words in the policy that sound closely to the following---- In the event of a loss in which the vehicle is unrecovered, not repairable or determined to be a total loss, the insured person will be paid the sum of $00,000.00 (insert your appraisal amount). If you have that line then you have a stated value policy and you will be paid the WRITTEN AMOUNT STATED in the contract. If you cannot find that line, or don't have that line, then you do not have a stated value policy and you may or may not be paid the amount of your appraisal. I am not talking about the amount of your appraisal written in your application, or the appraisal amount as it shows up in your monthly billing statement, I am talking about the LINE IN THE CONTACT THAT SAYS HOW MUCH YOU WILL BE PAID BY THAT CONTRACT. Ask to see it and read it. I wrote a mega post years ago on this subject that explains the subject in more detail. I will see if I can find it. Monte ------------------------------------------------------------Ok here is that other post from years ago. -----------------------------------------------Be careful of the stated value policy or getting an appraisal for an amount. These do NOT always mean that is what you will be paid if you have a loss. Agents sell policies and tell you that you have full coverage for the amount of the appraisal or stated value. But agents dont settle claims. The claim department does. Most policies here in the US are really actual cash value policies. That means that the Actual Cash Value of the vehicle must be determined. Most of the time the stated value amount is used to detemine how much premium is charged to the policy holder. What does this mean? If you have a car and you get an appraisal, ( and i mean a real appraisal!!! Not a piece of paper that some person got 10 cars from the auto trader, averaged them, and put an amount down that you asked for on the bottom line. I mean a real appraisal. One by possibly an appraiser who is also a respected car show judge or who has a license in the field of restored vehicles or has also collected and sold thousands of classic cars over the last 20 years or is an expert in another way, sorry used car salesmen dont count, and along with it there is mega documentation showing the exact condition of your vehicle, that means every nick, scratch, dent, grease, etc in all areas compared to the other vehicles in the appraisal. Yes that means this person will have to do lots of work and will have to INSPECT your vehicle and some others in order to detemine what the value of your vehicle is!!!! whew!!!) So you get an appraisal for 15,000.00 on your car. Its stolen and now you have a claim with your insurance company and the "stated value" is 15,000.00. You get handed a check for 15,000.00 right? Not necessarily. The insurance company will also do an appraisal. They are going to pay you the amount of their appraisal not yours. Most appraisals that insurance companies see are a joke and have nothing to support the amount on the bottom line. That does not mean that all insurance appraisals are any better when it comes to classic cars either. So, your appraisal is for 15,000 and theirs is 7500.00. What happens? Most policies have a dispute provision. If you do not agree than the matter is settled by an umpire. The umpire will probably side with the most credible set of documentation or will sometimes split the amounts by percentage. Many states do not allow the use of a blue book, red book, nada etc to detmine value. Most states require the insurer to go market place to detmine what the vehicles value is. That means what cars are actually selling for and not the "asking" price. Also if your appraisal is more than 12 months old it may not reflect your cars value. Some cars increase in value, some stay the same, and others decrease in value. Lets say you got an appraisal on your car 3 years ago right after you just did a complete frame off restoration. Since then you have attended many car shows and put on 20,000 miles, got a mustard stain on the carpet from your hot dog on the last rod run, and you now have one door ding from that idiot in the parking lot with some chips on the hood from normal driving. YOUR CAR IS NOT WORTH WHAT IT WAS 3 YEARS AGO. Sorry. However lets say your type of car is now the latest rage with Hollywood stars and every one of them must have your type of vehicle and they are paying any price to get one. Than your vehicle may be worth lots and lots more!!! Most policies are not bad but are not sold with proper understanding of what will happen in the event of a claim. Most agents will not explain this because most frankly dont understand how the policy works in the event of a claim. If you have a stated value policy or a policy with an amount. Ask to see the line that says " If your vehicle is declaired a total loss you will be paid $00,000.00 " You probably wont find it. You also need to pay attention to several other areas of your policy. Ask to see and read the " Companies Limits of Liabiliity " also look for the " Exclusions " also look for "Definitoins". These are the areas of you policy or CONTRACT that spells what limits and exclusions apply to your CONTRACT with your insurance company in the event you have a loss. Good Luck. ------------------------------------------------------------------Read your policies!!!!! Monte [This message has been edited by Monte (edited 05-07-2003).]

Congradulations Lloyd!!!!! Monte ------------------ 70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

I bought the plastigage new. Now, I cant tell you how long it was on the shelf at the parts store. It was the green plastigage and we were not measuring metric. Monte

I am in the process of rebuilding the engine for my Monte. When I was installing the rods back onto the crank, plastigage told me I only had .001 if clearance. Way to tight. I checked several other rods. Same thing. So I measured the crank journals and rod size with bearings in them. That showed me I had .0025 clearance. That is what I should have had. So started putting it back together. Still at .001 per plastigage. Since I was using a 6" dial caliper ( not the most accurate way to measure clearances ) to determine the sizes, I figured that the plastigage had to be correct. So after discussing with most of my local race buddies, we figured that since the crank was ground under .022 from spec, that somebody must have resized the rods to compensate. We figured whoever did the rods got them a little to tight. Took the rods in and had them resized. Got them back, started putting the engine together and.... still .001 on the rods. Now I dont know what to think. Took everything apart and took everything down to my buddies machine shop. He looks at the plastigage and says "wow". He then tells me that he machined and measured everything and that he didnt think I really had a clearance problem. So we measured the crank and rods again only this time with his quality micrometers. He got just about the same measurements that I got with the dial caliper. He told me I should have .002 to .0025 clearance. He said to me I think your plastigage is wrong. He says I have seen that before. He told me to put it together and see how tight the assembly is to turn. Now I have been around for a while, but I have never heard of plastigage being wrong. So I went home and re-remeasured everything and put it together. When I got done I spun the engine to see how tight it was. It turns perfect!!! Lesson of the story. I should have believed my measurements to begin with. Turns out the plastigage I got was not accurate. I have never run across that before. I wasted 3 days and a lot of time over this. Thought I would let you guys know. Monte.

I think you will be happy with the 274. I would assume your talking the hydro flat tappet and not the solid roller? The 274 hydro pulls real well to about 5500 and has a very crisp throttle response. Its a good grind from comp. I would check your geometry first before start up. Use your existing push rods and see where its at. As far as lash goes, if its the hydro you want to preload the lifter. Since you dont have oil pressure, tighten the nut on the rocker until the push rod starts to become hard to turn between your index finger and thumb. Use common sense. If you have to grunt to turn it thats to tight. You do this with the lifter on the "back side" of the lobe. Not during the lift or once it starts to lift. The push rods you have will probably be fine. Monte.

Mike I will post below a prior response to a similar question. It should explain to you how to check for proper rocker geometry. It may read a little funny because I will list the entire post. Monte. Is your cam a solid roller or hydro? If its a hydro you can adjust them with the engine running. If its a solid you should adjust them valve by valve with a feeler gauge. You can get rocker splash guards from the local auto store which will keep the oil from going everywhere. Not all splash guards work with roller rockers. Take a rocker with you to make sure you can get it on. Mine are super super hard to get on but they do work. Also before you install all of the roller rockers. You need to check your rocker geometry. Many roller rockers depending on design can change your rocker geometry. This also is effected by how much lift your cam has. The tip of the rocker arm should ride close to the center of the valve stem during the lift. If the tip of the rocker rides on the outside or inside edge of the stem you have a geometry problem and this can lead to stress on the value and failure of the valve or the valve guide. You can buy a push rod length checker that is adjustable so you can determine the proper length push rod for your set up. The correct length push rod should allow the tip of the rocker to travel in the center of the valve stem during the opening and closing of the valve. The rocker tip will travel a little toward the outside edge of the stem and a little toward the inside during this process but most of the time should be in the center section of the valve stem . Again if the rocker tip rides from outside of the valve stem to the center or inside of the valve stem to the center you have a geometry problem. You also need to check the clearance between the stud and rocker at full lift. Some roller rockers can bind on the stud at full lift. It is sometimes hard to see as it will usually bind on the bottom side of the rocker toward the tip of the rocker. Monte

A 1/2 a turn will put more preload on the lifter than what it usually recommended in most aftermarket cams. Going more than a 1/4 turn will put more pressure on the spring assembly inside the lifter. That can make the lifter lazy and cause you to loose performance. Have you checked your rocker arm geometry yet? Monte

Mike first of all is your cam hydraulic or solid? I will assume it is hydraulic for my response here. As far getting oil all over the place, I took an old valve cover, cut it in half, and installed the bottom half of the valve cover on the head to keep oil from dripping down the sides of the head. You will also need to get rocker arm splash guards. They are available at the local parts store and usually cost less than 10 bucks. You will need to do the actual adjustments with the engine running. After you install the push rods one easy way to get you close is to tighten the rocker down while turning the push rod between your index finger and thumb. When you start to feel the push rod getting harder to turn your getting close. You dont want the push rod to spin freely nor do you want it so tight that it wont turn at all. In the middle of those two is about right. You want to feel some friction when turning the push rod. You will also need to bump the engine over quite a few times while doing this to make sure your not tightening them while the lifter is on a cam lobe. I would suggest you check all the push rods 2 to 3 times while bumping over the engine to make sure they are all close before start up. Keep in mind once the cam starts to rise the lifter, there will be pressure so you wont be able to turn it. Your looking to be able to turn the push rod on the back side of the cam lobe where it is not being lifted by the cam. Once you get it started there may be some clacking. Start on one side and back off the nut until you here the rocker start to tick, then turn it back until its quite and then give it a 1/4 turn more. I have seen several other posts that suggest 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. But for an aftermarket hydraulic cam a 1/4 turn is correct. Going more than that will put to much preload on the lifter. If you have any questions feel free to e-mail me. Monte.

Donny rice is correct on the length size 7.8 should be right. However if you want you can buy a push rod length checker for about 15 bucks and check it. I will copy an old post from a while ago which will give you some direction on a "basic" way to check your geometry. The post may read a little funny as It was an answer to a different question. Monte You can get rocker splash guards from the local auto store which will keep the oil from going everywhere. Not all splash guards work with roller rockers. Take a rocker with you to make sure you can get it on. Mine are super super hard to get on but they do work. Also before you install all of the roller rockers. You need to check your rocker geometry. Many roller rockers depending on design can change your rocker geometry. This also is effected by how much lift your cam has. The tip of the rocker arm should ride close to the center of the valve stem during the lift. If the tip of the rocker rides on the outside or inside edge of the stem you have a geometry problem and this can lead to stress on the value and failure of the valve or the valve guide. You can buy a push rod length checker that is adjustable so you can determine the proper length push rod for your set up. The correct length push rod should allow the tip of the rocker to travel in the center of the valve stem during the opening and closing of the valve. The rocker tip will travel a little toward the outside edge of the stem and a little toward the inside during this process but most of the time should be in the center section of the valve stem . Again if the rocker tip rides from outside of the valve stem to the center or inside of the valve stem to the center you have a geometry problem. You also need to check the clearance between the stud and rocker at full lift. Some roller rockers can bind on the stud at full lift. It is sometimes hard to see as it will usually bind on the bottom side of the rocker toward the tip of the rocker. Monte

My 4 speed car is due to be painted next week. Once its back together I will do the interior. My orig interior was vynal, but because I live in the desert I am thinking of going to cloth. Did they make cloth for a 70 4 speed bucket seat car? If so, where is a good place to get seat covers. Are there any photo's of the cloth that somebody could send me that I could look at? Thanks Monte.

That 60' time is hurting you a bit. There is a big difference between 2's for 60' times and the 1's. 2.2 to a 1.6 makes a difference not only in E.T. but also changes MPH a as well. Also Desmo is right, play with timing. Advancing the timing can help kill a little bottom end which may help the hook up but also help make it pull harder at higher RPM. Also the mechanical curve on the distributor and vacuum advance can also make a difference. Most street/track cars work well with full advance at 3000 RPM. Many HEI distributors get max advance at 4500 or higher, that can sometimes make a car pull harder at mid track. However 3000 max advance may not be the best for driving around town. You will have to experiment. How much total advance do you get and at what RPM? How much total timing on the balancer do you get? Also one other thing is proper jetting. You need to get your timing dialed in first before you do your jetting. Get your carb idle dialed in and then go after jetting. If your timing is set for max power, then get your carb set up correct. You can pull a plug anytime to see how the overall jetting is. However power jetting should be done at the track. Champion spark plugs are made to be read for jetting. Most copper plus work well. I personally do not like champion but I do tune with them because they are so easy to read. Champion also has a good web site with photos of how a plug should look and a heat range chart. Try to use as cold a plug as possible with out fouling. Many people go out and get a "hot" plug thinking that it will increase power, however with a big compression engine you already have plenty of heat. Running the combustion chamber cooler will help keep away detonation and create more horsepower. No matter which area you go after first, do things one at a time and write down what you did and what the result was. Always keep a record. I see guys all the time do things like change jets by going up or down 4 sizes. Or change jets and then timing at the same time and then go for a run. If there is an improvement which did it? The jets or the timing? If you change anything do just one thing at a time and stick with it. Go with the 2 rule. Never change jets by more than 2 sizes at a time, never change timing more than 2deg at a time, and never change heat range on plugs more than ranges at a time. Have fun Monte. [This message has been edited by Monte (edited 03-16-2003).]

To answer your other post there is a calculation for correcting E.T.'s for elevation. However you need a degree in calculus to figure it so, try this in stead. From 6000' to 5000' add .20, from 5000' to 4000' add .19, from 4000' to 3000' add .19, from 3000' to 2000' add .19, from 2000' to 1000' add .18, and from 1000' to 0' add .17, these times very to correct for air density. This formula applies to most street/strip vehicles out there with engines capable of achieving approx. 90% to 105% volumetric efficiency. Also I second David72 check those 60' times. 106 MPH should put you about 12.6 to 12.8.One other thing, most people focus on the quarter mile time. I would start by tuning to get the best MPH first ( unless your just blowing the tires off the car) then figure out how to get the E.T. down. MPH=Horsepower. What did you have for tires?

Is your cam a solid roller or hydro? If its a hydro you can adjust them with the engine running. If its a solid you should adjust them valve by valve with a feeler gauge. You can get rocker splash guards from the local auto store which will keep the oil from going everywhere. Not all splash guards work with roller rockers. Take a rocker with you to make sure you can get it on. Mine are super super hard to get on but they do work. Also before you install all of the roller rockers. You need to check your rocker geometry. Many roller rockers depending on design can change your rocker geometry. This also is effected by how much lift your cam has. The tip of the rocker arm should ride close to the center of the valve stem during the lift. If the tip of the rocker rides on the outside or inside edge of the stem you have a geometry problem and this can lead to stress on the value and failure of the valve or the valve guide. You can buy a push rod length checker that is adjustable so you can determine the proper length push rod for your set up. The correct length push rod should allow the tip of the rocker to travel in the center of the valve stem during the opening and closing of the valve. The rocker tip will travel a little toward the outside edge of the stem and a little toward the inside during this process but most of the time should be in the center section of the valve stem . Again if the rocker tip rides from outside of the valve stem to the center or inside of the valve stem to the center you have a geometry problem. You also need to check the clearance between the stud and rocker at full lift. Some roller rockers can bind on the stud at full lift. It is sometimes hard to see as it will usually bind on the bottom side of the rocker toward the tip of the rocker. Monte

Comp makes a 270H magnum and a 270HR magnum. The H is a hydraulic, and the HR is a hydro roller. 270 refers to the advertised duration of both cams, but they have different lifts and the Hydro roller has a different ramping configuration than the flat tappet. Lets assume that you are looking at the 270H. That cam should give you what you want. I have never had that cam however most magnum series have a healthy sound. Its about as large as you want to go with having a stock stall converter and stock gears. Comp suggests a 3.55 or lower. It should work well from 1800 to about 6000 rpm and not effect power accessories. According to comp they also suggest headers and a 4bbl carb. Now about the sound. That great sound people want is effected by both duration and lobe separation angle. Duration can be defined as time measured in degrees of crankshaft rotation. The larger the duration number the longer the valve is open. So, 270 duration means the valve is open 270 degrees of the 360 degrees that the crank turns. The exhaust valve duration effects the sound the most. The larger the duration on the exhaust side the more lopey the car sounds. That is because the earlier the exhaust valve opens in the cycle the more the sound of combustion goes through the exhaust. However, having an exhaust valve open too early can also cause loss of cylinder pressure and loss of torque hurting performance. Lobe separation angle ( LSA ) is just that. It is the number of degrees separating the peak lift point of the intake lobe and exhaust lobe on the cam. So the smaller the number the closer the peak lift points are of the lobes. The closer together the peak lift points are, the more time that both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time. A 106 lobe separation cam has more overlap between the exhaust valve closing and the intake valve opening than a cam at say 112 LSA. Cams with a larger LSA ground into them help give you that snappy off idle performance because they build cylinder pressure at low rpm helping to make torque. While cams with say 104 LSA which are used in Nascar engines have that rough sound because of all that overlap and work great at high rpm. Cams with low LSA dont work well on the street for daily driving. So the comp 270H should work well. It has a LSA of 110 which is good for the street. The 270H has 470 lift intake and exhaust. As far as a carb goes, I'm a holley guy, check out part numbers 0-80783 (650 vacuum secondary), and 0-3310 (750 vacuum secondary), the 750 will work better with a performance type of head. Double pumpers are fun and give you that kick in the pants feeling while you stab it, but that doesnt mean the car will be any faster with it. Vacuum secondaries will be more dependable and only use as much fuel as the engine needs. As far as heads go check out Air Flow Research. They offer a great street head that is about the same money as the vortec. Good luck Monte.

Kevin, on my car I wanted 1 3/4" headers for my application. However nobody made one for a Monte Carlo only chevelle which I tried but didn't work on the right side. The chevelle header worked on the left side however. You may want to see if that rear tube turns forward on a chevelle left header. Once again I was dealing with 1 3/4" headers not 1 5/8" which may have a different design. I ended up using a set of 1 3/4" Hooker super comps for a 71 camaro. The rear tube on mine turns forward and sits about 4 inches in front of that brake junction on the frame. I will look at my 4 speed car tomorrow and if it will work. I think if you get a header that turns forward you may have enough room for the z-bar. Also the 71 camaro header does not work on the right side. I had to "modify" the header and take a plasma cutter to move the right lower control arm pocker a bit so the header will clear. I think that hooker 1 5/8" may clear. Monte.

Did you order them for a Chevelle or a Monte Carlo?

Andreas, just so that I am clear are they the same as the plastic ones as far as how they mount? Do you think you are going to have to modify them to get them to work at all? Did you have a plastic liner out of the car to compare them too? Monte

I met a guy about a month ago who has peddle sets for chevells. I bought one but cant remember what i paid. He wanted like 30 or 40 bucks. I dont see those that often so i bought one. I assume it is the same as the monte carlo. He has other ones there if you need anything. Monte.