Monte

Yes. I think you will like it. Monte

If you want my opinion on the lm-1 feel free to call me. If you dont have the number send me an e-mail. Monte

Yellow, it was pinned to the top the day Don posted it. The little red "push pin" thing on the main engine forum page (next to the subject line) means it will stay at the top. Monte

Ok, so what do you recommend for my 2.3 turbo. Its a small stock t/3 .63 trim garrett. It is only oil cooled. There is a factory oil cooler at the filter that coolant goes through but thats it. All the SVO boys recommend frequent oil changes because of the high oil temps from the turbo. Monte

I have talked with harold in the past. He is awesome and helpful. Can you believe he has never built an engine!!! Monte

I know that there were some 70's that came from the factory with a BOP 8.2. Mine was one of them. I was told it was do to a strike at GM. They told me that they ran out of regular corp rear ends so they used the BOP in stead. The BOP 8.2 10 bolt is almost as strong as the GM 12 bolt. Mine has been in the car 7 years, thousands of launches from the track. Monte

When I read this after I posted it I realized I didnt answer the question. It should be manifold vacuum. The carb base plate is fine. Monte

The best way is to first take a vacuum gauge and set your idle mixture screws. You should adjust your idle mixture to the highest vacuum reading you can get. Make sure when you start if one screw is out 1 1/2 then make sure the others are the same turns out. Keep all the screws balanced until you get the best vacuum reading. Its usually best to go 1/4 turn at a time. Once you have the highest vacuum reading then turn them back out 1/8 to 1/4 turn each. If you have a 4 corner idle carb then it should be 1/8 on each. If its a 2 corner idle then 1/4. Then put the car in gear and check the vacuum reading. What ever the reading is in gear buy a power valve that is 2 sizes smaller then that. Or you could always use the stock size power valve which in a Holley is usually 5.5. Monte

Wow Kevin I must say I am surprised!!!!!! However I understand that things do change in our lives. I would like to take this opportunity to "thank you" for all of your devotion and hard work over the years for the club. Without you this club would not be here today. THANKS!!!!!!! Monte

With a 1.60' I should be around 11.8 or so give or take either way. Add 150 shot a mid 10's are realistic. The rear end set up is still the same. The problems was after 7 years and thousands of launches the posi gave out. That run they said the right rear tire was spinning more that 1/2 way down the track. I have the stock BOP 10 bolt that came in the car with adjustable Edelbrock upper arms and SSM lower arms. The tires are Hoosier Quick Time Pro's. Most of the traction issues are solved with the new posi. One day I need to get it back to the track to see if I finally made it into the 11's or not. Monte

No, its not my first set up. It is # 4. I went from a solid cam with dart heads to a hydro roller with afr heads. I lost time because of the hydro rollers ram profiles. I recovered by putting in a solid roller and then later the t-ram to take advantage of the small runners to increase torque. The combo is very solid now and I am sure its running better than the time in the signature. Monte

That looks like a good choice. Why are you unhappy with it??? Monte

What cam did you get??? What specs?? Monte

There is a very good set of articles in this months Chevy High Performance. It answers most terms, questions, explains some theory and uses some different cams in a dyno test. One of my personal pet peeves is the whole debate about whether a 114lsa cam makes more power than say a 106lsa cam. Because of misleading marketing information from many cam companies, most people still believe that a 114lsa cam will make more power. That is not always the case. I have been in many a debate on cam design and theory on the net trying to explain why the 106lsa will usually make more power. In the article they take 2 identical cams. One with a 114lsa and one with a 106lsa and put them on the dyno. Check out which one makes the most power and torque. Monte

I have the 2. But it is the version from probably 10+ years ago. Trans has been in the car for 8 years now. They guy before me put it in. The receipt was from about 2 years before I bought it. It did bark the tires in 2nd before I put in the converter. Monte

I would look at Coan or an ATI. They are a good product and the companies are know for good recommendations. I have a TCI which has been in the car for 5 years now. I would stay away from the Hughes and B&M right now. Monte

I can answer this one. Everyone is invited with one exception. You cant come if your hair can touch your nose!!!!! Monte

There are 2 questions here. My story first. I got my Innovate Motorsports wide band 02 sensor installed. This thing is the bomb. I did more in 4 hours than in the last 3 months of tuning. First off I had a plug reading problem. The plugs kept telling me the mixture was too rich. So, I kept going smaller in jets until the car just didn't seem to be pulling as hard as it should. (I never got lean surge) I knew it felt, sounded, and the heat from the engine said it was too lean, but the plugs still said too rich. ( the black sooty look ) I started checking things out and it turns out that it was a valve seal problem. Now, I know your wondering how I could mistake oil for gas but, the plugs were never wet and always had that dark gray/black flaky look just like when its too fat. So last weekend I fixed the seal problem. Making no changes to the tune up I hooked up the meter today. At idle (1400 rpm for me) it said 11.5 to 12.0, light tip in 12.5 to 13.5, same for easy cruising at 20mph. When I got the car under some load, 14.5, 15.0, 15.5, 16.0 mostly. (a few times 18.0 and 22.0 when getting off throttle) My cylinder temps were 1450 to 1550. I think the high cylinder temps may have been causing the oil to bake away any wetness??? Has anyone had that happen??? I had been ignoring the high temps because I have been told so many times that egt's are not always that accurate and that any unburned fuel in the exhaust can make the temps go high. With the dark plugs I thought it was still fat and basically ignored the temps as being inaccurate. Anyway after doing some driving around it became clear that under load I was way to lean but ok around idle. I have 2 600hp double pumpers. They come from holley with the factory set up of 70 jets front and rear, and a front and rear 5.5 power valve. I was down to 65 jets front and rear and I kept the 4 power valves. So I started driving around today with the meter. I watched my my idle and light load cruise readings being sorta ok but, any real load being too lean. So I blocked off the power valves and went up to 74 jets front and rear both carbs. That was a very positive change. It netted an average afr of about 12.0. It varied from 11.5 to 13.5 under cruise, light load, load and WOT. WOT was usually 12.0 or less. Exhaust temps went down to around 1200 to 1300. So I went down to 72 jets in front and rear of both carbs. The car ran even better. This time driving around afr netted an average of about 13.0. It varied from 12.0 to the 14.0 range with 1350 exhaust temps. I decided to take the car for a 1/4 mile burst. For the first time since I lived in Phoenix I got the rear tires to spin. In a 15 sec run @ full WOT the average AFR was about 12.5 in second gear. I had to got out of it right after shifting into 3rd. One interesting thing was I started recording as I was loaded on the converter. You can see at about 3 sec into the run the afr drops to 10.0. I believe that was from the 4 accelerator pumps on the carbs. You can see on the graph where it clears out and hovers at around 12.0 to 12.5 in first gear, but then is fairly steady at 12.5 to 13.0 in second. I still have a lot more to do but I think this one of best tools I have bought yet. I ran out of time today so that is as far as I got. I do have one other question. Example, driving in 3rd gear at 2,800 rpm and let off. The afr immediately spikes way up to 14.0, 15.0, 16.0 or so. I would have thought that at close of throttle it would first go way rich then spike lean. My thinking is that since fuel is coming out of the booster before closing the throttle, it would momentarily go rich and then lean because of lack of fuel. I understand the closing of the throttle blades stops the fuel from being draw out of the booster, but I would still think it would go rich for a second and then go lean. Can anyone expand on this? Thanks for listening. Monte

The drag radial will help but they are not as good as a M/T or Hooier Quick Time Pro. I have seen guys 1.5 60' foot with a drag radial. The only thing is they stay in the burn out box for what seems like forever. So I don't know how long they will last having to burn them that long to get them hot enough to stick. The guys that don't spend a long time in the box don't get much better 60' times than a regular tire. The drag radials do ride a lot better than the bias ply counter parts. Monte

Is your mx-6 a turbo car??? Monte ------------------ 70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

Good explanation of LSA & ICL & how they relate to power I often here many people talk about the subject of LSA and ICL. (Lobe Separation Angle, Intake Center Line ) Most people think that a wider LSA cam makes more cylinder pressure. That is not exactly correct. I have seen this subject widely debated between racers and on the net. I found this posted on a web site. This is some good reading. It is one of the simplest explanations of a very complicated subject that I have seen. Enjoy. XXXXXXX----------------------------------MadMarv Team Member posted 10-04-2003 08:54 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm sure this has been explained numerous times before.. but I'm still sort of confused. I'm cam shopping, sorta anyway, and plugging with the DCR calc at the same time. Can someone run down lobe sep and icl in general? then explain how they matter in vehicle behavior? then explain how a 114 lobe sep with 112 icl would be different than a 110 108? if the total advance is still 2 deg? if you have time, same theory on 114/108 and 110/104? What would be the difference? I'm getting ready to call crower, crane, comp, lunati (non-harold) and see what they have to say. I'm going to ask what difference it would make if I switched from 3.90s to 3.31s or 3.42s(but I'd have to buy 3.42s). I am gonna call UDLunati when I'm ready to make the purchase. I'm using the DCR thing, but it just seems to hate big cams. I can't see how bigger always would equal worse. If anyone wants to know, I'm looking for a way to squeeze 625hp out of a NA 454 w/ a hyd roller and rect ports, mainly via just a cam swap. Suggestions welcome. Matt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Northboro, MA | Registered: Aug 2000 | IP: Logged | 69 Ratt Vette Tech Team posted 10-04-2003 09:19 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In general the wider LSA will make a broader tq curve and higher peak hp, but less mid range tq. When selecting a cam for an auto or 2 spd you want a LSA in the 104-108 range, cams for a 4-5 spd are usually in the 110-114 range, pro stock is more than that. Also forced induction or nitrous cams are wider LSA's. Wider LSA's usually idle better and are more streetable, check the cam specs on new motors (LS-1's etc.) Just for a comparrison my 454 +.030 runs ported Oval Edelbrock Ovals, Vicotor Jr, Holley 1000 and a solid roller (255 / 262 at .050 .652 lift on a 112 LSA installed at 110.5 ICL) the car goes 125 mph in the 1/4 on the motor (approx 3450 lbs). It has a relitively radical sounding idle (1200 rpms) but will pull 6th gear (3.70 x .62) at 1500 rpms You need to list you combo to get better advise than that. You are going to need a good set of heads to make 625 hp with a 454 unless you go to some higher compression stuff -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Huntingtin Beach | Registered: Jul 2002 | IP: Logged | Pat Kelley Tech Team posted 10-04-2003 09:45 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That is a whole slug of questions. Entire books have been written on the subject. Basiclly, tighter Lobe Seperation Angle (LSA) causes the peak torque to be higher, and located lower in the rpm band. A 108 LSA, while having a higher torque peak, has less torque at lower and higher rpm than a wider LSA cam given the same duration. It has a narrower torque band. Average torque is lower with a tight LSA. The advantage of a tighter LSA is the quick rise to the higher torque peak. This work great for drag racing cars which can operate in a narrow rpm band. The more gears your trans has the tighter LSA you can run since you can keep the engine in the narrower torque band with the extra gears. Most street cams have a wider LSA which broadens the torque curve. The advantage is an increase in low end torque with a steady rise to the peak (which is lower than a tight LSA). The curve stays higher well past a tighter LSA cam's curve, which can cause the wide cam to make more power at top end. As for the Intake CenterLine (ICL), the curve stays the same but it is moved up or down the rpm range by advance or retarding the cam. Advancing the cam causes all cam events to happen earlier. For example, the intake closes earlier when the cam is advanced. This traps more mixture in the cylinder and makes more torque at lower rpm. However, there is less time for cylinder filling at high rpm. With less or no advance, the intake closes later. This traps less mixture at low speed but allows the engine more time to fill the cylinder at high rpm. I'm guessing you know what LSA is. The DCR calculator loves or hates nothing. It really couldn't care less what cam you use. Would you say a torque wrench hates high or low torque? If you want to run a big cam with low compression, you can. However, the engine won't like it much. The DCR calculator is just a tool to help match compression with duration and ICL. If your CR is low the engine won't like a big cam, the DCR calculator is just helping the engine tell you this. -------------------- Pat Kelley 66 El Camino, daily driver 67 El Camino, Bracket car (7.36, 92.96, 1.62 60', 1/8 mile) 355 powered Pat's Page (Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator, car specs, Spark plug reading info) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Pomona, CA | Registered: Oct 98 | IP: Logged | 69LS1 Team Member posted 10-05-2003 12:10 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I dont know if this example will help at all but if you have two cams...Both lets say 270 deg adv duration....one ground on a 114 LSA and one ground on a 108 LSA...Same lobe just a different LSA. Lets say the 114 LSA cam had timing figures of: IO = 18 and IC = 72 EO = 66 and EC = 24 If you add the IO of 18 and the EC of 24 the sum would = 42 degs of overlap. The same lobes ground on a 108 LSA would have : IO = 24 and IC = 66 EO = 60 and EC = 30 If you add the IO of 24 and the EC of 30 you would have 54 deg of overlap. You can also see that with the 108 cam the intake is closing sooner and would build cyliner press sooner that the later closeing 114 lsa cam would.The 108 LSA cam EO later for a longer power stroke than the 114 LSA cam has. The 114 LSA cam would likely idle abit smoother than the 108 LSA cam due mainly to the lower overlap but the 108 LSA cam would likely come on Harder and be snapier when you got into the cams RPM range.The 114 LSA cam would likely not hit as hard and be smoother power and really pull abit later in the RPM range. Not to dispute anything here but many times especially with small blocks under 370 CID a tighter LSA cam will many times make more power throught the entire RPM range than a wider one would. When you get into some really small cams often times they are ground on a tighter LSA...UD Harolds SB 246/254 H (192/199 @ .050 ) in on a 108LSA and Iskys Mile a More cams ( 194 @ .050 ) are also on a 108LSA....They also offer a 256 H (202 @ .050 ) on a 108 LSA...One of Chevys OE 305 cams was ground on a 110 LSA from the factory... As you can see the LSA basically changes where your cam timing happens.Good , bad or indifferent but the right lobe on the correct LSA cam really make a difference depending on your combo's needs. -------------------- Al. 1969 El Camino -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------ 70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

Wow, I torqued mine to 65lbs. I thought that was what the book said. Just for insurance we put a small weld on mine. I would like to know what the "real" spec is for the yolk nut. Monte ------------------ 70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

1st, is the BOP 10 bolt worth anything? No not really. Only to the few people that know a BOP 10 bolt is as strong as a 12 bolt. 2nd, are the power trax units any good. Yes and they be one of the best choices out there today. I have heard lots of positive things about the power trax. If you want strong check out the Moroso brute strength line as well. I dont know if either of them have a unit for a corporate 10 bolt. 3rd, I know that the auburn unit is not a locker but a cone type posi. I am not sure but I dont think eaton makes a locker either. Monte ------------------ 70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

Alex is right the BOP 10 bolt has 2 1/2 moon shapes cut out of the rear cover on each side by the axle tubes. Chevelle rear ends work in the same model years. I measure a 68 Chevelle rear end one time that had the exact same dimensions. I do know that before 68 there were some different length rear ends put in Chevelles. I think the 66 is one inch shorter or something. Maybe some else here will know that one. The problem with the BOP rear end is that there is only one posi made for it. Its an Auburn. Also It is tough to get hardened axles for. I have been waiting for Tom's differential to make mine for me since December. So if you can get a 12 bolt reasonable do it. You will have a lot more options. Monte ------------------ 70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

Well a 12 bolt is always a better choice. But there are 2 types of 10 bolts in our cars. There is the regular GM 10 bolt and a BOP Pontiac 10 bolt. I would not invest a lot of money into the GM 10 bolt however they are tougher than you think. Now the Pontiac 10 bolt is a different story. They are strong as a mountain. I have had my BOP 10 bolt in my car for 6 plus years. It has thousands of passes on it and regular street use. The only thing is the BOP 10 bolt is expensive to build. But I could not find a cheap 12 bolt so I built the 10. That's my 2 cents. Monte ------------------ 70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.