Katman
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Posts posted by Katman
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Got a bit of an issue wiring up the courtesy lights and the trunk release. Service manual says both of them go to "bat" - which I'd agree is where they should go. Should have power even when car is not running. But the connectors are not compatible. One has the lip on the left side and the other on the right side. The courtesy harness has a connector to bridge another power wire (you can kind of see that extra blue connector at the bottom of the picture). I'd have to shave off the lip on the connector on the right in order to allow it to plug in. See picture below.
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Jim, I bought one from Leo Konik but I had to get the defroster in order to get the grill. I don't think they are being remade at this time.
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Point taken. This is an SS which I am trying to keep as original as possible. All harnesses are new and will most likely out live me. I'm good with the way they did this 50 years ago. If it wasn't an SS there would have be A LOT of modifications.
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I looked at the old drivers side power window harness and there was a bridge wire from that harness to the rear window defogger harness before it went into the IGN terminal on the fuse box. I pulled that connector and put it on my new hardness and my windows are now working. Thanks a lot for the assistance you guys provided!
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I think that pink wire is the one you are talking about. If so it doesn't have the right type of connector to plug directly into the IGN on the fuse panel.
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Thanks. I do have a pink wire that is hanging in the breeze. My fuse box is different than yours. I'll post a couple of pictures.
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The only connector at the relay is a three pin connector from the power window harness. One of those three wires is pink. It sounds like maybe a single pink wire should also go to that relay if I understand correctly what you are saying.?
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yeah I grounded the relay still no go. I'm wondering if a weak battery could make that relay not work? It's an old battery and when I went to start the car, found it nearly dead. Took it to Auto Zone for a charge and they said it tested bad. The radio and other things work (locks, etc...) but not the windows. I did order a new battery which should come in a few days. Could that be the reason? I did use that battery to test each window as I put the new glass in and they all worked wired directly from the motor to the battery.
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I've replaced all of the interior wiring with new harnesses from M&H. Windows worked before I started this project. orange/Black is connected to the power feed from the voltage regulator through the firewall connector can receive three interior inputs. right now two of them are connected. The relay is hanging in the air right now. That may be the issue? I'll bolt it back down and recheck. If I were to want to bypass to test the windows, which two wires would I connect together at that relay harness connector?
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I've pretested all of the motors. how do I bypass the relay? there are 3 wires. I'd connect the orange to ? in order to bypass. If I recall one of the two remaining wires is pink. is the third wire a ground? Or does this third wire have something to do with flipping the power and ground to the motor to reverse direction?
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I've wired up the power windows but they are not working. I've already tested each window motor previously. I'm getting power to the relay behind the kick panel driver's side. Should I see power on any of the two other pins besides the orange wire? I'm thinking maybe that relay is bad. The wiring from the voltage regulator through the firewall is all in place. They have said my battery is testing bad but they did charge it and power locks works, so does the 8track.
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Thanks I will try one of the above, and see how it goes.
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No that is not it. I already have that. Need the piece you don't see when the chrome is on the window.
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Does anyone know where I can get the seal that goes along the edge of the quarter window between the glass and the chrome end piece that slides onto it (not the seal that slide onto the chrome vertical piece but the piece that actually seals it against the quarter window edge? I'm replacing the quarter window glass and reusing the chrome piece but when I took it off the old glass the seal inside the chrome piece fell apart? I'll post a picture if need be but it is not the rubber seal that slides into the chrome piece. I already have replacements for that.
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By the way I also want them to tuck up close to the floor boards. The exhaust with the patriot headers hung a bit low.
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Just read this post. I've got the ZZ454 and when I installed it I went with the Patriot 8012-1 ceramic coated headers back in 2004. They have pitting now mainly on the passenger side. A lot of that came with the move from CA to PA back in 2005 and placing the car in one of those air tight storage units for a couple of months (since I moved the car on an open trailer late January). Anyways they are out right now and thinking about going with the Doug's 306 or 313 (the Patriots are mid length). I had to grind away at the bottom of the flange on every exhaust port of the Patriot due to the flange hitting the head bolts. That wasn't a big deal as the fenders were off and had easy access to the engine. Looking for opinions on best fit, best long term non-pitting lasting header. Fenders are on now and car just painted with all body lines locked in. Doug's or ARH? Not intending to race, mainly drive it on the street.
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Awesome job with that car - I remember it well. I was following the Coke Machine with my Monte going into the show at Charlotte. Here is that picture.
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I'm using all new bulbs and sockets so I don't have the problem of them working when the dash is out and then failing after I get the dash back into the car. ordered 194 bulbs and returning the 168's. I read where some people used 168's on circuits that are not constantly on like the turn signal. Just doesn't seem like a good idea to mix and match different brightness though.
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Also is it possible to apply power to the printed circuit (without using the harness) to test the bulbs before I put the dash back in?
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I'm getting ready to put the dash back in the car and based on this post awhile back I bought the 168 bulbs as a replacement for the 194's. Is there a potential problem with switching to the 168. I would probably prefer a bit brighter and in this post they say the 168's are brighter.
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8 hours ago, Jim Boczar said:
One other thing to note is, I believe that 1970 slats were flat with no grain as seen in the second picture posted by Dennis above. Another 1970 item only.
Hey Jim. I did not know that. Thanks for sharing that tidbit. Next time I see your car, I'll make sure to take a closer look.
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On 1/15/2019 at 8:50 PM, 7tonemonte said:
That’s what I meant, they were on the bottom of the top slat. LOL
i was wondering why people were saying mine were upside down as they looked just like the pictures! Now that I re read the original post from Mark it’s clearer what was asked.
Glad to hear they are not upside down!
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They are back in the housings. Looking a lot nicer. Glue drying then put them back in the dash. got the replacement set from OPGI (two inner, two side). Don't get them from the Parts Place if you want A/C setup. All they sell is vents with non-A/C housing. Product write-up doesn't mention which application they are for. Keep the felt washers though. The washers that come with the replacements are way too small.
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7 hours ago, MC1of80 said:
Katman, go back and read 714024SPEEDs post. Both are the same orientation.
Yeh I see how I misread what Tony said.
Fuse block Wiring Issue
in Electrical Tech
Posted
Thanks Paul but I still need to put two different wires on the BATT terminal of the fuse block. I can't do that if all I do is change the ends to be both crimp terminals. Maybe I'm missing something with your explanation.