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Katman

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Katman last won the day on May 18

Katman had the most liked content!

About Katman

Dues paying 10+ years
  • Rank
    Bronze Member
  • Birthday 04/27/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    cars, movies
  • Legal Name
    Mark Katuszonek
  • Occupation
    IT Guy

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  1. Paul and MCFan, thanks for your help! I figured that is what Paul was suggesting but just wanted to confirm. I will try to not have to cut off any of the connectors and see what is available at the local Auto Zone. McFan thanks for posting the pictures.
  2. Thanks Paul but I still need to put two different wires on the BATT terminal of the fuse block. I can't do that if all I do is change the ends to be both crimp terminals. Maybe I'm missing something with your explanation.
  3. Got a bit of an issue wiring up the courtesy lights and the trunk release. Service manual says both of them go to "bat" - which I'd agree is where they should go. Should have power even when car is not running. But the connectors are not compatible. One has the lip on the left side and the other on the right side. The courtesy harness has a connector to bridge another power wire (you can kind of see that extra blue connector at the bottom of the picture). I'd have to shave off the lip on the connector on the right in order to allow it to plug in. See picture below.
  4. Jim, I bought one from Leo Konik but I had to get the defroster in order to get the grill. I don't think they are being remade at this time.
  5. I went with the headline insulation kit. Clips are separate. There are two different types.
  6. Been there and done that! Good luck.
  7. Point taken. This is an SS which I am trying to keep as original as possible. All harnesses are new and will most likely out live me. I'm good with the way they did this 50 years ago. If it wasn't an SS there would have be A LOT of modifications.
  8. I looked at the old drivers side power window harness and there was a bridge wire from that harness to the rear window defogger harness before it went into the IGN terminal on the fuse box. I pulled that connector and put it on my new hardness and my windows are now working. Thanks a lot for the assistance you guys provided!
  9. I think that pink wire is the one you are talking about. If so it doesn't have the right type of connector to plug directly into the IGN on the fuse panel.
  10. Thanks. I do have a pink wire that is hanging in the breeze. My fuse box is different than yours. I'll post a couple of pictures.
  11. The only connector at the relay is a three pin connector from the power window harness. One of those three wires is pink. It sounds like maybe a single pink wire should also go to that relay if I understand correctly what you are saying.?
  12. yeah I grounded the relay still no go. I'm wondering if a weak battery could make that relay not work? It's an old battery and when I went to start the car, found it nearly dead. Took it to Auto Zone for a charge and they said it tested bad. The radio and other things work (locks, etc...) but not the windows. I did order a new battery which should come in a few days. Could that be the reason? I did use that battery to test each window as I put the new glass in and they all worked wired directly from the motor to the battery.
  13. I've replaced all of the interior wiring with new harnesses from M&H. Windows worked before I started this project. orange/Black is connected to the power feed from the voltage regulator through the firewall connector can receive three interior inputs. right now two of them are connected. The relay is hanging in the air right now. That may be the issue? I'll bolt it back down and recheck. If I were to want to bypass to test the windows, which two wires would I connect together at that relay harness connector?
  14. I've pretested all of the motors. how do I bypass the relay? there are 3 wires. I'd connect the orange to ? in order to bypass. If I recall one of the two remaining wires is pink. is the third wire a ground? Or does this third wire have something to do with flipping the power and ground to the motor to reverse direction?
  15. I've wired up the power windows but they are not working. I've already tested each window motor previously. I'm getting power to the relay behind the kick panel driver's side. Should I see power on any of the two other pins besides the orange wire? I'm thinking maybe that relay is bad. The wiring from the voltage regulator through the firewall is all in place. They have said my battery is testing bad but they did charge it and power locks works, so does the 8track.
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