Paul Bell

Fingers crossed the rear right one will clear the AC box.

Some stainless steel angle, 1/8" thick.

Plenty space for a big block!!

We've found the problem with my axles. The bearing has a lock ring that's pressed onto the axle after the bearing, these lock rings come with the bearing. The lock rings that came with the bearings are much longer and are bigger in outside diameter. Upon axle insertion into the axle tube, the over sized lock ring hit the inner axle seal. We simply need to find the correct lock rings and swap them. Unfortunately, it looks only available with bearings.

The good news is that with the wheels further out on the new spacers, the new 295/55-15 tires clear the chassis and fender flair just right. And I pulled the intake to inspect the bearings in the roller lifters (engine last run in 1992!) and they look like new.

50+ degrees here in NY today! I installed my new rear brakes-or at least I attempted to. To remove the old brake backing plates, my machinist had to remove and replace the axle bearings and lock rings. (The Ford 9 inch rear has a large bearing pressed onto the axle that snug fits into the axle tube.) It appears that the axles are going too far into the differential before this axle bearing is deep enough into the axle tube. It's like the bearing is too far out on the axle-but it's supposed to be pressed all the way on. This prevented me from installing this beautiful set of Wilwood brakes I have. You can see here, the bearing is supposed to be just about flush with the axle tube flange.

I'm finding a disappointing thing about the FiTech fuel injection systems. The 600HP systems have timing control. The $100 more 800HP system does not have timing control. I'm right at 600HP so I want the 800HP system-but I also need the timing control so I'll need to step up to the 1,200HP system that's a bunch more money. I've have a few emails with them, they will NOT swap in the computer from the 1,200HP system to the 800HP system. Looks like I'll need to spend the bucks. Other than this, these systems look pretty awesome.

I've decided I'm going with this fuel injection system. Many reviews, everything positive, nothing negative. Easy, foolproof and waayy beter than a carb.

Yeah wow, that's pretty bad. I know many cars here have these vinyl top reveal molding without paint but they're supposed to a flat dark shade that matches the top. Are you gonna paint them?

May I ask what this generic trim was?

I think this would look waayy cooler on that antenna:

Drilling axles is not fun. The ARP spec'd hole size for the knurl was an odd size, 15.5mm was the closest and just slightly smaller. I first drilled to 15mm then ran a reamer/bore to 15.5mm. A nut pulled them in nicely. The wheels didn't need drilling, the factory lug holes accommodated the 1/2 inch studs without issue. This is good because the Wilwood brake kit for the front comes with 1/2 inch studs. My axles are ready to go back to the machine shop to press on new bearings and retainer ring.

As I ordered my rear one inch narrowed on each side, I can move the wheels outward if needed. The 295/50-15's were touching on the inside with space at the fender. I'm now running the MT 55's, I gotta move them. AND I wanted to step up to 1/2 inch studs. I got these spacers from Baer and had my machinist make up longer Ford (small) to GM (large) hub spacer rings. He turned a lip on them then turned the spacers to recess the lip to retain the rings. The ARP studs I chose of course needed a bigger hole in the axle flanges for the knurl plus they were too long. I topped them off with some huge 1 inch lug nuts from Keyser.

As my transmission is an automatic, the flexplate has 168 teeth. My previous starter was a Tildon which was very similar. It also had an aluminum mounting block. Original starter as in what came from the factory? I have no clue, this car was an engine-less roller that started life with a small block. And it was green.

The UPS guy brought this and a box of smaller junk. I can't wait until springtime!

USPS was happy to bring me this, almost as happy as I was to get it! Powermaster 9400. $275.00 at Summit, $220.00 on ebay I got it for $130.00 at Amazon shipped! Amazon's numbers keep bouncing around, after I ordered it it went up to $180.00 now it's down to $165. WHATEVER, I gots mine!

I received a tubular transmission cross member from Lemon's Headers, Dan Lemons is one nice guy! It just needs some powder coating.

Thread from the dead! I'm planning a front coil-over setup. I've heard from several sources that as far as coil-over shocks are concerned, QA1 is the lowest quality. You folks with the Viking stuff, how's it holding up? I'm looking at these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Viking-Front-Coil-Over-Shocks-1968-72-GM-A-Body-big-block-/201032422679

After exhaustive research, I bought a battery. Interstate MTP-65. 850 CCA, 1000 CA at 32 degrees, reserve capacity of 140 minutes, 45 pounds. Highly rated, $120.00 at a Firestone shop.

Yessir, exactly. See, you never know what scrap can become a useful tool! I just needed to widen the slot over the valve. A two foot piece didn't do it, four feet did the trick.

As if the #8 intake spring wasn't fun enough, the exhaust required a extra special super duper custom special tool. I have a bunch of "custom" tools that have but one purpose.

I'm lucky that my machinist is good enough to loan me these two tools. I've been using and recommending him for many years and I occasionally do some electrical work for him. We're working together to get his dyno fixed up, it took a big hit during hurricane Sandy.

No doubt after 14 years without turning the engine, my valve springs are done. This Moroso tool made things easy-although a bit difficult to attach at the rear locations. AND as my machinist is an anal SOB (thank heavens!) I need to measure the static height of every valve stem so he can get the spring pressures and shims "dead on balls accurate". This engine has a mechanical roller cam with .680 lift, the springs need to be accurate. What a pain doing all this in the car!

My transmission has a JW Bell Housing which attaches to the front pump bolts. These bolts leaked quite a bit so I yanked the unit on this incredibly warm Christmas morning. It was probably my last chance to do this until it gets warm again in March. This removal took one hour, on the floor, alone. Same job on my '99 T/A would be a day and half a night. Next stop Select Performance Transmissions!

Well this was a tedious and lengthy task. I need a beer!