72 LS5

Suppoosed to be nice tomorrow so I'll probably drive my old wreck to work tomorrow, and maybe swing by at lunch around 12:30 - are you gonna be around?

Yes, I remember it being very tight but it still should work. For the two boots that are close to the air cleaner, you have to aim one towards the left and the other towards the right - I don't think it will fit any other way. And I never use that ring that goes on top of the wire boots, either. Good luck. I'm gonna stop by your shop one of these days....

Knight - Doessn't a 14" drop base air cleaner work with HEI on a small block???? I'm 99% sure I've used that combo before. You should have enough hood clearance to use a 3" element without the drop-base - that should definately work, assuming we are talking open-element. I've got both at home if you want to give it a try before you buy anything....

I'd say if you don't plan on changing the rear gears anytime soon, the deeper 1st (3.06) of the 700 would work better for ya! No idea about the GW5....anybody else?

Knight - check this site http://www.bulkpart.com/vehicle.html Not etched in stone as they list 65-72 Monte as PG (PowerGlide)

We meet again..... I'll jump on this since my Daily was an 85 Monte for several years. I do not believe they ever put a 700R4 in a Monte. The 83 SSs had a Turbo 350 with 3.42s, then they went to the 200R4 soon after with 3.73. Mine had the 305, and that had the annemic metric 200 3spd (no overdrive). I'm pretty sure that was shared with the V6 as the 305 only put out about 150 hp. So, if it does have OD, it would be a 200R4. BTW, I swapped in a 350, worked 200R4, and 373s. It was the perfect setup. I prefer the 200R4 to the 700 because the gears are closer ratio and its almost exactly the same length as a TH400 - easy installation.

I'm going to try to answer the suspension question, as I have a non-Custom 454 car. As I look at the build sheet, I do not see anything in the lower sections regarding F41 suspension or anything like that. In the top section, for Ctl Arms Rear is NUNHHD. I've got AKA and BP BP for front and rear springs and 544R for Stab., EK and DN DN for front and rear shocks. The car was almost bone stock when I got it back in '88 and it has the boxed rear arms with sway bar. I'm pretty confident that the suspension is the same as a 70 or 71 SS minus the load-leveler. Hope that helps

Hey guys, maybe you should put the 350 stuff under a new topic so the other 350 guys can benefit. It sounds like good stuff to share......

I think weight is a major factor here. My car weighs 4000 on the button without me. And its a lightly optioned cars. I'm sure there are some loaded big blocks up close to 4200lbs. If you figure roughly 100 lbs = .1 second, getting the car down to 3500 would be worth a half a second. I often wonder how my mild 454 would run in a Camaro....

Don, you mention track times with the Vic Jr are faster but are these cars running crazy stalls and wild gears? I plan on running 95% of the time on the street with a 2400 converter and 3.31s. I would have thought the air gap would be a perfect choice, whereas the Vic Jr would be the choice for racing.

Don: I hope you get well soon! All good points about the mags.... Ok, of course, the more we chat the more questions I have. With the 560hp buildup you did (earlier in the post), would the air-gap RPM give better average hp throughout the rev band than the Victor Jr? I would sacrifice some peak numbers for some strong low-mid torque. One more: I have two carbs in stock, an 800dp and 850dp - do you think this engine would benefit from the 850? Both are dog-leg style. Thanks

Heckeng: I think what Bones was referring to is that the Eddys aren't true ovals, like mentioned earlier in the post. The are more like a square, so any oval port intake would be somewhat of a miss-match.

Don, thanks for the reply. I would hope that the guys doing the flow bench would be professional. If every test in a magazine is giving questionable data, then most people can't base their selections on anything. The power numbers you mentioned sound more than I had hoped for with the XE274. That's unreal that you got another 55 hp from the heads and manifold. Now I have some new questions. Obviously one would think that the big ports would give away some low end torque. Were the power numbers just moved up the rpm scale? I'd like to keep the stall under 2800 and the gear at 3.31. Would I still have the torque down low? What about intakes - would a dual plane run better with the Canfields? I hate to meantion dyno tests again, but nobody has seen better average hp number than with the RPM on a street engine. You seem to like the Victor. Do you remember the carb size on that engine? I appreciate the discussion. BTW What does Rice Racing1 mean???

I was going to do a similar combo as this: http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=-1972547497 And here is where I was getting flow numbers, unfortunately no Canfield 310, just the 305. As far as the o-ports go, the Chevy looks great. Canfields even more so, but I'm worried, because on paper, it sure seems that velocity would be too low. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/ OK, so we know how well the heads flow, so how can we measure velocity for maximum cylinder filling?

Bones and RR - thanks for your input, I appriciated it! I realize that the ovals are the way to go no the street for the velocity reasons mentioned above. That's why I liked the Chevrolet aluminum oval - its a 290 cc head and flows extremely well with moderate lift cams. I wish I had the #'s in front of me, but I'm at work. You guys didn't mention anything about these heads, but I'm very interested in Bones running 11.6 with "Eddys" - what size cam are you running and what stall and carb? I'd like to run around 12.0 with 3.31 and a mild stall myself.... RR - I have a new interest in these Canfields. I will definately research these further. Will both the Canfield and Eddys accept a regular RPM O-port manifold with no modification? The ports do look square rathar than oval.... Thanks again.

I have 71 oval right now with bigger valves. The newer casting flow so much better and the weight savings alone would be worth about .5 seconds. Is that true about Edelbrock making heads for GM? I can't imagine why, since GM has everything they need, and the knowledge to produce their own heads. I have a cylinder head shootout test (somewhere) that flows all the BBC heads and the Chevrolet aluminum oval edged out all the (oval) competition. bones: so you say stick with irons? curious as to why?

Anybody of you guys run Chevy's new aluminum oval-port heads on your big block? These are at the top of my want list. AFRs are way too expensive, otherwise I'd get those..... These Chevy heads are supposed to be a great street head, outflowing most others with a streetable cam.

72yellowmc: Still haven't decided. Everything is on hold for me now - life is very hectic! With a 2 year old, and a 3 month old, they keep me hopping. Plus, still repairing stuff from Hurricane Wilma, still have do baby's room, garage, office, etc. Enough excuses! Right now I'm running an 800 dp, and I have an 850 dp in great condition. I want to compare back to back at the track. I may wait until I rebuild the engine before I decide. I still want some more numbers of measurable improvement going with one of these high-buck carbs. Yellow had great results. Can anybody else convince me with track results? I don't really trust the butt-dyno....

I also love my 400 - bullitproof! BUT, if it goes, I'm getting a built 200R4 maybe from Art Carr. With the lower first and overdrive, I will be quicker and faster. They can be built to handle 800 hp, and they don't have that huge gear ratio difference between 1st and 2nd like the 700R4 does. Plus it is almost the exact length of the 400. The Monte hasn't been in the fast lane on the freeway in years - I miss that!

I remember now - you were running quicker than me with a small block!

72- 1.5 tenths is a lot! Any mph difference that you can recall? What engine combo are you running again, 383? thanks

Has anybody seen any measurable gains when switching from a regular Holley to a Speed Demon, Mighty Demon, or Holley HP??? Is it really worth the extra price? If so, what kind of improvements were seen? Thanks

You may be interested in this topic: http://www.firstgenmc.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=002725

The leak should not be related to the linkage adjustment. You will have to get under the car and adjust the linkage right next to the trans. Just loosen the bolt on the linkage rod and slide it slightly one way or another, then tighten. You have to study the linkage movement to see which way you need to make the adjustment. It usually take a few tries to get it right on! Good Luck.

I remember vividly doing full throttle runs near my house trying to set the shift points of the trans - probably took 20,000 miles off the life of my Turbo 400... Anyway, there are basically 2 adjustments: 1) the vacuum modulator: this governs how closely the Part Throttle shifts are stacked together. If you don't have one, get an adjustable vacuum modulator. You can pull the vacuum hose and adjust the part throttle shift points with a small screwdriver. You can set the shifts to be close together or hold each gear a little longer. For my 454, I like the shifts kinda close together, because with the torque there is no need to run longer in each gear. Saves gas too. 2) The governor: Mainly affects full throttle shift points. Here's where you have to be careful. Any small change in the wieghts or springs may have a huge effect on you full throttle shift points. I advise getting the kit also and trying changes in small increments. I remember changing weights, going for a test run and watch in the tach hit 5000, 5500, 6000, 6200 and it still didn't shift! Ok, wrong weights..... I wish the kit had definate weight/spring combo for a 6000 rpm shift, but it doesn't. You have to play around with combos until you find what you like. Good luck. Buy some extra trans fluid