Jump to content

Rancid87

(Non-dues paying)
  • Posts

    130
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Rancid87

  1. My brother has one. It seems like a good option if you are just using it for commuting and the occasional trip to  home depot or lowes. I was not impressed with it towing a dump trailer full of stones though so if you plan to do any kind of towing it is something to consider.

  2. If you slice the beaded areas you can bend the panel to a 90 pretty easily. Then just weld the reliefs and grind them smooth. I ended up cutting the outer portion off and then added a couple strips so the tail panel could mount to it. Putting the body on the frame would make it pretty easy to line up(id use new body mount bushings all around).

    If you get lucky maybe you will find a tail panel that still has a piece of good trunk floor. That would make for a nice install like John's!

  3. I don't think any trunk floor will really be Monte specific. Most of it will be the same but where it meets the tail panel will be different (much different than a 70-72 Chevelle). I think I used a 70 AMD trunk floor in my car because the 71-72 floor was on back order. If the original section of trunk floor that meets the tail panel is good and you can section the one piece pan to fit than you will be in good shape. Mine was rotted out so I ended up using a lot of the replacement floor and modified it to work. The AMD floor did have the bracket for the spare tire already installed.

     

  4. White vinegar would work well to remove the rust. It may take a little longer than the metal rescue. Electrolysis would also be a good option. I'd bead blast them if you have a small blasting cabinet(good reason to get one!)

    • Like 1
  5. What diameter wire are you using? Also, are you just putting in tacks or are you trying to weld complete beads? Usually, I'll just tack every few inches and then just go back with another row of tacks until I complete the seam.

  6. The easiest approach would be to run a braided fuel line from the tank to the pump. You could also use regular steel fuel line and install it in sections and use rubber hose and clamps to join it. I'd probably just run braided line. I've used it in several cars and its pretty easy to work with.You would just need to get a couple hose ends and fittings to make it all work properly.

  7. I bought a pre-bent kit for mine so I can't say exactly how much you will need for each line on a Monte. I have made my own brake lines in other cars or trucks and I've always just bought a coil.  A single 25' coil  of 3/16 line has usually been enough with a little bit left over. I used the 3/16 for everything and never noticed an issue with rear brake performance. The nickel copper line is a joy to work with!

  8. You would need to remove the gut pack from the case and check the shaft for wear. If there is any wear on the shaft it will likely never seal for long. If the wear is minimal than you may be able to clean it up with some scotchbrite and reassemble.

    Those compressors are pretty easy to disassemble and the seal kits to reseal the entire compressor are less than $30 shipped (including the double lip seal) but if there is wear on the shaft it will never seal for long. I'd take it apart and check. I ended up buying a Delco remain for around $200.

  9. Welding the tabs on to the axle tube would  be the easiest option. Otherwise, you would have to fabricate a clamp to go around the axle tube. Something like a 3" exhaust clamp with the brackets welded to the clamp might work pretty good and would be removable.

×
×
  • Create New...