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jft69z

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Posts posted by jft69z

  1. 3 hours ago, pab3589 said:

    Sorry Joe,

    If it makes you feel any better he doesn't really like us either , it's the farther you get from NYC ..LOL .. Thanks for keeping the lights on we still had staff working out that way. I am at the Comptrollers Office for NYS State Retirement.

    Yeah, he's pretty much useless. Hopefully, I'll be talking to you in about 2 1/2 years when I'm planning to retire. :grin:  (NY Power Authority)

     

    Edit: Just opened the email at work tonight, the NYPA employees in that area got the same message to stay home. Pretty sure the operators are working though.

  2. Here are more pics that show the difference between Precision, Stock & Metro Moulded

    Hard to tell by the pics, but the Precision is much closer to stock in all aspects. The leading part near the hinge has the 3 holes, Metro-2. Cross section is clear to see, and the molded angle section is by far a better fit & nearly duplicated the OEM. The Metro is pretty stiff/firm overall as well compared to the other two.

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  3. Hey Patrick,

    We're not so lucky on this side of the state, the governor hates us, lol. Unfortunately, we're considered 'essential personnel' and have to be at work (or stay at work if that's the case), exempt from travel bans, etc. The people are real selfish and seem to want their tv's, air conditioners, lights, etc around the clock and expect us to provide the electricity for them. Imagine, the nerve of them, lol.

  4. 38 minutes ago, Rob Peters said:

    That's odd, the items I have gotten from Metro Moulded have been excellent fitting with no adjustment of hinges or latches to compensate for being too thick.  Did you contact Metro to talk to them?  Is it possible there was any kind of flaw in what you received?

    rob

    Not yet Rob, I'll call them later in the week after the other stuff from Precision comes to me.

    The roof rail rubber they have is just one long section of a straight extrusion, nothing like the factory one that's also molded for that angled section. The cross section of it is solid and thicker than stock as well. The molded end of Precision's near the top door hinge is much closer to the stock one as well, the Metro one looks like a hot dog roll in comparison, lol. By all measures, the Precision part appears to be much closer to stock. I'm at work thru the night, but will take some pics and post the differences tomorrow.

  5. Looks great, nice job!

    BTW, thanks for the pics of the roof rail weatherstrip. I got a set from Metro Moulded, (not cheap either) and don't like how they fit at all. Way too thick & like you mentioned, not molded at the top forward corner area. It was like stuffing a sausage in there at the angle joint. I ordered a set from Precision and they came a couple of days ago. Much better and closer to the factory stuff in all regards.

    Now I'm questioning everything I got from Metro, so I ordered a few more of their parts. Door set, trunk, & lock pillar seal. For the price of them, it's worth ordering to see if they're better. I'll post a couple of pics in my build thread down the road for comparison between the 2 companies.

     

    Thanks again & keep up the good work.

  6. Thanks Jared, I need those. Figured they weren't available. Any part number for the inner ones with the 3 clips? I saw on an Oldsmobile site (when looking up these Fusick parts) that Soffseal 5023 may work? Has 2 clips, but manageable they said. Not listed on their site though.

  7. So, the "replacement' tank came from Aeromotive today. The first one that came last week had a hole in the box & it rattled when holding the filler neck, like a broken spot weld or something. Sent the borescope down it but couldn't see anything. They agreed to send a new one out, but they say ,"they all rattle". Hmmmm…. so I'll have a rattle trap over every bump? They say when it has gas in it, it will be better. Not buying that excuse. The guy said it wasn't packed properly if I could see the neck though, and he'd see to it the new one got packed better.

     

    So anyways, the new tank comes today, the hole in this box is even bigger. Pretty obvious the neck is still unprotected. Can't wait to get home from work to see how this one rattles. I'm sure getting whacked that hard on the neck to destroy the box to that degree won't have any negative effect on the inner structure.... :angry:. Called them to give a heads-up and send pics that my GF sent me, we'll see how this plays out.

    Ironic that the damage is at the tape that says don't accept if damaged. Unfortunately, the delivery guy dropped it off and left. Looks like he kicked it out of the truck at 30 mph.

    So far they've been great to deal with, so hopefully we can get this ironed out so I can run the fuel lines and keep moving towards the other mountains of stuff to do.

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    • Sad 1
  8. the 3/8" part is "pipe" sized. I'm at work now and can't measure it, but the ID of the -8AN fitting probably won't be much different than the ID of 3/8 pipe.

    Edit: Quick search shows that the ID of a -8 AN fitting to be .39"

    ID of sched 40, 3/8" pipe to be .495", sched 80 pipe to be .423" (this is the pipe itself, that would thread into your part, NOT the threaded fitting connection of your part). This all means, the ID of the -8AN fitting would still be smaller than the 3/8 pipe screwing into your Mallory pump. No problems as far as flow restriction (the -8AN would be the restriction in this case).

  9. I'm still going back thru those articles quite frequently as I'm going forward with some assembly now. They just had a new article last month I think. Sounds like they're getting close to actually firing up the car to see if that stuff is actually going to work. It better, Iol, or I bought an expensive transmission for nothing. That article (part 11) isn't online yet, too new. If it doesn't show up soon, I'll scan it & email it to you.

    • Like 1
  10. My car came with them already installed. Hard to say, I didn't really drive it much, but with the lopey cam in the original motor, it didn't seem to be an issue. You may want to consider the trans mount too, to keep everything even. I plan to re-use all 3 mounts with the LS6 motor.

  11. Spent a little time after work adjusting the crossmember mount to fit properly. Cut about an inch out of it just behind the slots. This also provided just enough clearance to allow removal of the crossmember when needed. It's a tight fit otherwise, and would hit the trans oil pan and not let you remove it easily.

    Also added a couple of tabs on the ends because with this trans, the crossmember needs to go to the furthest rear holes on the frame. Didn't want to use just 1 bolt on each side, so the added tabs will let me use 4 bolts total with the existing frame holes.

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    • Like 2
  12. Popped the body on the frame real quick to see how the actual transmission is going to fit in the car.  Did a lot of research, seems the popular answer to putting one in an A-body is to use the G-Force RCAE-4 crossmember, plus a 'short' urethane trans mount, compared to a taller/stock height one. Kept looking at the pics of their part and it just seemed like it drops the trans down a lot. Took a bunch of measurements with an angle gauge the other night & it really would have made for a poor pinion angle I think (I pulled the rear springs out so I could manipulate the rear diff thru its full range of motion too).

    So I called them up, turns out their member drops the back of the trans approx. 11/16" compared to a stock crossmember. Add to that the difference between a T400 vs 4L85E trans mount to centerline of output shaft of approx. 3/8" (4L85 distance is shorter, dropping the trans down even more). That drops the trans over an inch, plus the shorter trans mount they suggest, no way that would work & still have an acceptable drive angle for the U-joints.

    I think I'm going to use the stock crossmember, add a little metal to slot the mounting grooves a bit more towards the back, and use the stock sized rear mount plus shim it up to make up the difference between the mount pads. So far, with it in the car mocked up like that, it clears the floor & puts the driveline angles where they're supposed to be. Just something to consider if someone is thinking about this swap. I'll take pics of the crossmember down the road after I modify it (you can see where I already cut the pad a little to add a square piece so I can elongate the bolt slots).

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    • Like 1
  13. Getting ready to start figuring out the rear crossmember situation. A few quick measurements looks like the 4L85E may just barely work with the stock crossmember with just a minor cut/paste of the mount tab. Will know more when I get it in place. That big orange ugly machine in the background is why it wasn't going to happen tonight. Snowed a bunch today and supposed to go all night. I'll be up at 3:30 AM plowing snow before work (good thing I got the plow blade out of the shed last week). 7-11 inches of snow....why did I not move out west when I got out of the USAF years ago....

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    • Like 1
  14. After spending the week cleaning & painting more parts, the pendulum is finally starting to swing the other way and time to put things together. Still need to clean/paint a few more things, but at least things are moving in the other direction finally. Need to go thru the HVAC unit to replace all the foam seals, strip the dash down to paint that, plus all the interior bits, etc. Plenty more to do, but back to work again Wednesday night for another long stretch so it'll be slow going for a bit.

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    • Like 1
  15. I change my vote to # 4 then, lol

    When you start getting prices, the guy I got my GMPP transmission from gave me a good discount from all the other published prices. I called a few GMPP dealers, and he was the only one that even offered. If you google "gm performance parts", he is the first place that pops up as well....gmperformancemotor.com, Jason. It's a Chevy dealer in Wisconsin, free shipping too.

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