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jft69z

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Posts posted by jft69z

  1. 1 hour ago, Paul Bell said:

     

    While I had it all apart I discovered a VIN sequence stamped on the firewall, it was covered by the bottom of the A/C box. I never heard of it being here.

     

     

    You may find another one on the passenger side of the firewall, directly below the blower motor hole. My 72 has it in both locations on the firewall.

     

    On a side note, got color on a few things finally.

    20190925_193037.jpg

    20190925_192931.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. It's a VERY good site. I stumbled across it when I was looking for some window related issues. They have a good diagram for the placement of the trim clip studs in the front & rear window frames. I found over a half dozen missing between the front & rear windows, explained why the trim didn't sit too good on the rear corners. Zapped the new ones in with the stud welder & all should be good now.

    • Like 1
  3. 58 minutes ago, cny first gen 71 said:

    :dt On the shop, I would love a shop like that Joe!

    Thanks Steve. Realistically, I bought a shop & it came with a house. It was empty & bare when I got it, but I saw the potential. Was originally a 24x24, then a 40x40 was tacked onto that. That's how I got it. I eventually squared the building up and made that addition a spray booth/parking area.

  4. Wow, that's great to hear. Hope that fixes everything up nice & easy.

    Only other thing I might do would be to swap that wire with another one that is about the same length that is known good. Just because the wires are new, doesn't mean they are all good. Or, like Tom said, use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance of the #4 wire compared to another one. Doubtful that's the problem though, what's the chance the same wire would be bad on your originals and the new set.

  5. When you're pulling the wire at the cap to check for spark, is it with a wet/fouled plug still in the head? Even though it was replaced, if it's not firing it can get wet and not fire pretty quickly. If so, maybe try getting a new plug (Leave the wet one still in the head if you want), hook it up & lay it on the block or something to ground the shell. See if it sparks then. Reason I ask, if the plug is fouled out/wet it probably won't spark if checking at the distributor cap. A new plug laying outside without the chance to get soaked, should spark if all is good in the ignition system.

    If it works, then maybe something else is happening in that cylinder that's causing that plug to get soaked. You mentioned it got hot, and then started missing after that...that may be a clue to start thinking about if the spark test above works fine.

    • Like 1
  6. Wow, glad you pulled through it! Amazing how life can change in an instant. At least for you it changed for the good again, after the very bad (and very long road).

  7. I actually did the same when I piped up my Camaro and old Monte, I ran 1/2" SS tubing front to back just to make sure there were no bottlenecks. In reality it was probably overkill, but helped me sleep better at night.

    Probably going to do the same with this Monte as I still have the 1/2" SS line I took off my old Monte in the attic .

     

    You think the old 3/8 fuel feed line will be good enough for a return line? I thought I read somewhere last night they said anything more than a few psi backpressure may cause a problem. They may have said don't use the vent lines as a return, probably because they are even smaller. Sleep deprived right now and can't remember a whole lot, lol

     

  8. I was at work last night when I replied, couldn't measure anything. The ID of 3/8 tube is .305" assuming a .035 wall thickness (that's what I have here). The 3/8 hose barb x 1/4" NPT fitting has an ID of .279" at the barb. I was thinking the 1/4 NPT part at the time which is roughly .330".  Just for grins I measured a couple  -6 AN fittings I have here, the ID is .293 on one & .280 on another.

     

  9. 54 minutes ago, 70 MONTE said:

    I see the Holley and Tanks inc (same tank) say the fuel pump has 1/4” inlet/outlets. The sniper manual says not to use less than 3/8” fuel lines. Is that going to be a problem?  That is the setup Holley recommends for the sniper but they contradict themselves. 

    I think the I.D. of the 3/8 metal fuel line on the car now will be smaller than the I.D. of a 1/4" NPT fitting, so no worries there. Tubing and pipe are measured different.

  10. Yep, the hydromat deal looks like an add on to an existing tank, or a new stock replacement type tank they offer if yours is old and crappy. I'll be steering towards the Aeromotive tank. Thanks again, that's one decision I can now check off the list of things to get.

  11. Looks like the Holley EFI Sniper fuel tank is one & the same as offered by Tanks Inc. Probably a little cheaper to get the 'Tanks" version. Even the Holley instruction sheet kept referring to 'Tanks Inc.' part numbers for additional stuff, lol

    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_tanks/efi_conversion_fuel_tanks/parts/19-126

    http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=386/category_id=144/mode=prod/prd386.htm

     

    The Aeromotive assembly you listed appears to be a plug & play unit, fully assembled and ready to put in car. The Holley/Tanks Inc.version looks like you have to assemble/measure/adjust fuel sender and pump depths before putting in car. Close to the same price, but with much less drama.

  12. Thanks Paul, I'll research that one. Planning to go with 1 of the Holley EFI units, not sure which one yet. Either Sniper or Terminator Stealth (which can also control the 4L85E trans if I get that version ECM. Saves having to buy and install 2 separate modules for eng. and trans). Still need to call them up and chat a bit to see what they recommend. Going to be a stock LS6 454 with no real plans to upgrade further, except maybe a cam in the future.

    Thanks again!

    • Like 1
  13. Hey Paul,

     

    Any opinions on the fuel tanks Holley offers for F.I. applications? I'll be going the FI route with mine and curious if you've heard good or bad. You addressed this awhile back, just wondering if your opinion has changed any.

     

  14. Like Paul said, fenders can stay put, but I'd be real careful opening the doors after you shift the body around like that. The fender may be closer on one side and chip the front edge of the door. Just something to think about before you open the door normally and ruin your day. Go very slow and if it looks like it's going to hit, stop and adjust the front clip accordingly. It may not be a problem at all, but would surely suck if it did.

     

     

    • Like 1
  15. That diagram pretty much shows everything you need to know about frame measurements.  The dimensions listed may not all be exact, but they're bound to be close. I'd also string some lines down the center, front to back and take measurements toward the side rail reference points. If one side is considerably different than the other, that's where I would start to be concerned. 

    I'd start with the "X" measurements to see if it were square first though.

    This is all stuff to consider if the body/frame is mated up properly as others have suggested earlier.

  16. Using the picture that Paul posted a couple of days ago in another post as a guide (great timing Paul) , you can take a few cross measurements to get a rough idea if the frame is square. I'd take a few different measurements like below and see what you get. If things are in the way, you can fashion something like a plumb bob from a couple of the holes/points of reference to hang down to get a better measurement. You can pick various spots along the frame to measure, the couple of red lines were just to give an idea. Just a thought..

     

    frame.png

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