Tim972

Does anyone know if you can get a voltmeter in place of the amp gauge for the sonnie24 gauge conversion? I have contacted them, but I cannot get a response. With using a 100+ amp alternator, the original amp gauge is useless, if not dangerous and American Autowire harness provides no provision for it anyway for that reason. I was also considering just buying the Shiftworks clock to tach conversion, but I found out today it’s been discontinued. 👎 So I’m up in the air right now about what route to go with my instrument cluster, either stay with the idiot lights and add my own gauge pod, or use the sonnie conversion and the amp gauge will be inoperable. Thanks

Absolutely, I just wanted to keep these looking nice.

Thanks for the pics, those look great 👍

Thank you, I will check those out.

Right on, I’ve been undecided on getting them, but they sure sounded like the best fit out there.

You’re welcome, how long have you had your set?

Just giving a heads up, if you’re on the fence about buying a set, ARH is having a tax sale right now til April 30th, 10% off and free shipping. I just ordered myself a set! With that brings my questions, what have you guys done for polishing/upkeep on them? I’ve had ceramic headers before, but this will be my first set of stainless steel ones. I’ve read they can turn brown near the flanges? Anyone have this occur yet on yours? Thanks 👍

Haha, I actually don’t mind too much. I use to work at an auto electric shop when I was younger, now I’m an electrician and fix junk machines all night at work. But when I finally get to drive it, I hope it goes smooth lol

Thank you Bruce 👍

I agree 100%

I bit the bullet and ordered the American Autowire harness this morning. At this point, everything else has been replaced, no sense in skimping out now. lol

Thanks for the input guys, I like that idea with the fuel filter. 👍

Right now it’s all original and before I disassembled the car, it all worked properly. The reason for the question is I was considering swapping just the harness that runs to the rear of the car before I put the interior back in and eventually when I have it apart for to redo the A/C I would do the rest. I’ll probably just do it all now and be done.

Ok, I will see what they have to say. Thanks 👍

Does anyone know if American Autowire uses all factory type connectors at the firewall? As in if I already have a new harness running to the rear of the car, would it plug into the American Autowire or would I have to swap in their rear harness out also? Thanks!

Very nice 👍

Welcome, beautiful car 👍

What’s the best fuel tank vent options for a 72’ with stock tank and almost all the original vent components missing? Run a remote vent off of the tank near the filler neck? Or is vented gas cap better option ? Thanks

I appreciate the help. I’m definitely going to try the a/f gauge going down the road, whenever that happens. Hopefully by spring

I decided to pull the carb back off and enlarge the idle air bypass holes in the base. I drilled them out to .095”. After firing it back up, playing with the timing and mixture screws some more, I now have an almost steady 14.5hg of vacuum at idle and it occasionally bumps up to 15hg. With the cam that I have, I’m pretty happy with those readings. We’ll see how it acts when I get it back in the car.

I was told Morel makes Howard’s & Lunati’s, and a few others supposedly. Comp Cams rollers are the only ones I’ve been told to definitely stay away from. But, like anything else, it’s a mechanical part and things can fail. I do know oil choice is extremely important with hydraulic roller lifters. From my research 10w-40 Driven HR-5 oil by Joe Gibbs is a top choice.

I’ve tried manifold and ported vacuum. I believe the vacuum signal to my vacuum advance is playing a part in my troubles. My vacuum output is right on the edge with the vacuum advance can being all the way open, which I believe is causing it to hunt back and forth rapidly. So I temporarily unhooked my advance and cranked the timing higher, the idle has smoothed out alot. I also started adjusting the vacuum advance with the engine off using my Mityvac pump and I’m going to reset my timing and go from there. I had the a/f gauge from a prior vehicle so I thought I’d throw it on and see what it read. I’ve mostly been using the vacuum gauge. I have a few more things to try, but my carb might need a few more modifications to get more idle bypass air. I’ve only done what Cliff’s suggested so far. Just tinkering with it on the run stand until my car gets back from the body shop, the rest of the adjustments will have to wait until it’s installed.

No, I think I would’ve went with the 20110547, .534/.544 218/226 @ .050” and 112 LSA. The 20110549 has more lift than I wanted. I was trying to stay in the .520-.540” area.

I have only had it on the run stand, my car is at the body shop currently. I’ve been trying to get the Qjet to idle properly. My vacuum was initially 10-12hg at idle. After some adjustments I’ve gotten it up to 13-15hg at idle, but I’ve gained an idle surge. I’ve been getting help via email from Cliff’s performance on the carb. But Cliff doesn’t care for my 110 LSA on my cam and wants me to swap it. After the first flat tappet cam failing and redoing the entire engine twice, I have no plans to take it out. I’ve had larger cams on the street than this with Holley’s and none of these idle issues. I was hoping to keep the Qjet for originality, but it’s not looking promising. I know your feelings on not spending the extra on a roller setup, I felt exactly the same. Unfortunately it bit me in [censored] in the end.

IMG_3754.MOV After rebuilding my Qjet for my rebuilt 402, I’m getting an idle surge. I initially was going to send it to Cliff Ruggles, but he’s backed up til next year sometime, so he set me up with the parts. Before the carb rebuild it was rich at idle but it ran smooth. After I rebuilt it and fired it up, it idled at 10-12 hg and 12.5 on a/f gauge, but idled fairly smooth. I had no control with the idle screws, so I advanced the timing to 20° Initial and then backed out the idle speed screw, and also lowered fuel pressure to 5 psi I regained some control. The mixture screws are now 1 turn out and I'm getting 13-15hg, 14.5- 15 or so on a/f gauge but surging at idle, 800-1,000 rpm or so. I cannot find any vacuum leaks on intake or around carb. The vacuum and a/f look decent, but the surge makes me think it’s lean. Any ideas ? I’ve been emailing back and forth with cliff, just waiting on his response. Some engine details: 1972 402, .030” over, 9.0:1 CR, stock oval port heads, Lunati hydraulic roller cam, .535/.545 lift, 220/230 duration, 110 lobe sep, 800 cfm Qjet from 80’s motorhome w/454. IMG_3754.MOV