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Posts posted by Scott S.
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There are a few ways to wire the "lock up" torque, but the simplest I found was just a direct ignition wire (with a switch) to the plug and ground wire. My transmission guy who did the rebuild grounded it internally, and set me up with a good torque.
I'm not sure if a 700r is the same as a 200r4 though.
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At least the farmers will be happy......
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Dirty/plugged fuel filter ???
It sounds like the fuel is coming and going...... Did you flush the fuel system yet ?
Could be the fuel pump too......... ???
As for 44 vs.45's, the hotter plugs were more for it town/stop and go driving, as opposed to open road driving.
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But I always knew who was riding around on my tires.....
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And a classic car won't drink all your beer either !!
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5 hours ago, jft69z said:
What car....all I saw was a gorgeous blond woman.....
And you thought that restoring a classic Monte Carlo would eat up your savings............... Bet she'd do it in half the time !! LOL !!!
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When I switched to the 200r4, I went with a 2400 rpm stall torque with the lock up feature.... Just had to add a power source to make it work.
I'm only running about 325-350 horsepower, and using a 3.31 rear end, but it's very streetable, and idles nicely down the highway.
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Depends on the person..... I've found a few that were pretty helpful.
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Joe,
If that's not it, it would be a broken wire between the switch and the lights......
good luck !!
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And make more money off of you...... Nice guys.
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Is the contact switch on the brake pedal mount adjusted correctly ??
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Classic Radio carries aftermarket repos that have been modernized to include tape, CD, and stick configurations.
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You might have to look into off road outfitters to find something longer.
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17 hours ago, Searsman said:
I think they come as a set of 4,,,.
Set of 2... fronts or rears, but not individual pieces.
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Paul,
Is that the piece from the back end of the window moulding ???
If so, it was originally coated in rubber, and can be found (usually as a kit) at most restoration suppliers.
Parts place sells two versions.
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The driver's door see a tad more use than the passenger's.
Not a lot of room in those doors for that. 1/4" ratchet with lots of long extensions worked for me. (and a few words every time I dropped them in the door)
So your cranks don't have the plastic discs ?? I would think they'd be good for keeping the rubbing of the crank from doing damage to the panels.....
As for adding sealant, that's pretty much up to the individual, but anything around moving parts might gum up the works.
A "Shepard's Hook" tool works nicely on removing that clip, but there are special built tools as well. At least you don't have the same problem re installing it. 👍
Transmission and gear ratios
in Drivetrain Tech
Posted
Hey Aaron,
If you're considering switching the rear gears, it'd probably be easier to transfer the whole unit.... 6 bolts, one brake line, and E brake cable. Plus the U joint.
Beats taking apart the carrier and pinion.... Unless you're in need of a rebuild.
Personally, I'd recommend the 200r4. It's pretty much a bolt in for the TH350's. the only issue I ran across was the driveshaft needed to be shortened about 1".
The T.V. cable was a touch finicky to set, but the guy who did mine has been rebuilding transmissions for 45 years, and he build mine to 750 horses.
Just remember, on the 200r4's, they need to have a new, hardened "barrel" installed. Or else any decent horsepower will just spin the input shaft right off.
With the 200r4 and 3.31 gears I went from about 14 mpg to almost 21 mpg. (imp.)
Originally had Th350 and 2.73 gears.
Hope this helps, Scott.