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Scott S.

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Everything posted by Scott S.

  1. Well, you did tell her she looked cute in your favourite team's jersey...... Only makes sense to try out your favourite car's emblem. LOL !!
  2. Depending on how bad the scratch/chip is, there is a powder compound that you can get that buffs into the existing paint. An auto body friend of mine uses it to polish up minor scuffs on newer cars..... I'm not sure if it's paint specific though.
  3. Wasn't she talking about getting a tattoo of something like that anyways ??? lol.
  4. Plastic ???? The original emblem on Montelishi is chromed pot metal. (Still not sure how a '71 emblem found it's way onto a '70 grill.) But all the red had faded off. The repro parts are all plastic now, but not that long ago they were still metal. Must be a big demand for them ???
  5. Parts Place. EM5191M Probably close to $75.00
  6. Quite the time capsule...... Wonder if he still has any of the original paperwork.
  7. My bad.... I thought he might be looking for the fancy "shouldered" one. My Gaelic must be a bit rusty. Is it common for the rear bumper to twist like that ??? I had the same issue with mine, got worse after Montelishi came back from painter's. Got it straightened out though.
  8. Hey Paul, I'm thinking this might be what you're looking for. Classic Body Parts OER-5960939 I don't have such a beast kicking about, hopefully someone might. Scott.
  9. If the gentleman being consoled in the video is the owner..... He looks O.K. Physically. As for emotionally, I'm sure we can all relate to how he's feeling, looking at years of joyful labour gone in an instant.
  10. The difference between the "lock up" torque and a standard converter is that the engine side of a lock up appears flatter where the standard is symetrical (both sides of the shell/housing.) look the same. When I swapped out my th350, a TCI product, It had a "lock up" type converter. I'm not sure if they just used the housing, of if it was the real thing. You'd have to check with whoever you had rebuild it.
  11. Found this one on Kijiji Calgary yesterday.... I believe he's asking $27,500 for it.
  12. Well, you've got to remember that in the early '70's, The SS/454 Chevelle had the highest hp rating on the market...... And some of those beasts found there way into Monte Carlos. Such a tragedy.... lol
  13. No, it's a completely different switch.... I column switch is built into the white box that mounts on the top of the column behind the dash, (it's curved to fit the tube) and connects to the shifter arm with a rod. The console switch is simply a box with a contact that mounts onto the shifter mount and opens the circuit when not in park.
  14. Just wondering..... Pete's body tag has a 7 digit body code..... Most I've ever seen only have 6. Was this something that changed on later production cars ?
  15. The other night I was driving home and my dash lights went out. A guy on a motor bike pulled up beside me at the stop light and told me my running lights had also gone out. I rattled the knob, and everything came back on. But when I hit the next bump in the road, everything went out again. I've got a new switch, but in all the Bowties I've owned, I've never seen this happen. Has anyone else ever experienced this ?
  16. If you're planning on replacing the lines anyways, just snip them off close to the nut and use a deep socket...... To save yourself the hassle of re installing them, I'm sure there's a nice selection of 4 and 5 speed manual transmissions that you'd like to try out.
  17. From the way you're describing it, I'd agree with Steve...... Start with the gear box. Delayed response sounds like a failure there. Depending on which way you're going with your Monte, there are several aftermarket options. If you want that "original" look, the box is fairly generic (newer versions will require a "metric" conversion kit). Or you can rebuild it as well. Mine had a definite missing spot when I first bought her, so I went the easy route and found one from a mid '90's Jeep Grand Cherokee at a local wreckers. It was pretty much a straight bolt in.
  18. Yeah, at this age, that might require a small ladder to execute gracefully. LOL !!
  19. Are you to the point of welding the doors shut, painting a big Union Jack on the roof, and becoming the Duke of Summerland ????
  20. Sorry, I listed clearance issues with the th400, should have been 700r4..... As well as the 700r4 can take more hp.
  21. Hi Thomas, The th400 has a 32 spline output shaft whereas the th350, 200r4, and 700r4 all have 27 splines.... so you'll have to change the transmission end of your driveshaft no matter which one you choose. The 200r4, which is the one I went with, is pretty much a bolt in, excepting for moving the cross member back. (350 cid/th350) and trimming the balance weight at the transmission end. The th400 cross member is different and the transmission is a couple inches longer, so you will have to find/build a new driveshaft. I've also read that there's minor clearance issues using the th400. Personally, I like the 200r4 for the wider gear ratios (0.67 to 1 overdrive and 2.67 to 1 first gear) for highway driving. But if you choose the 200r4, make sure you get it rebuilt with heavy duty internals..... 400 hp is a lot for the original "off the shelf" units where as the th400 could take that kind of hp. As for the rear gears, 3.55 should make a nice street/highway combination.... Montelishi originally had 2.73's, which are really nice on the open road, but a little lagging at the stoplight. I eventually went to the 3.42's. Still a little slow at the light, but I've pulled around 20 mpg on the highway with them. There are a few threads here that discuss who likes which better, I'm sure more will weigh in eventually. Good Luck with your swap, Scott.
  22. Catches on the jab, or on the front quarter panel ?
  23. Scott S.

    Any Takers?

    They forgot the furry interior.........
  24. The "goop" is an early method of anti-vibration tech.... If they gooped the bolt, it wouldn't loosen, and things wouldn't fall out of adjustment. Cheaper and easier than a lock nut/washer.
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