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Scott S.

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Posts posted by Scott S.

    Remove door card

    in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum

    Posted

    Hey Paul,

    The hole below the mirror control is where the window crank goes, and your's looks like a manual crank window.... But it also looks like the toothed end of the shaft has been damaged ??? Loaded a photo for reference, hope it helps. 

    There's a few threads on the site dedicated to side mirrors...... And a few members with just about any version you want for sale. 

    lha6.jpg

    Remove door card

    in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum

    Posted

    Yes, the covers are held on by clips/tabs that keep them in place. 

    The door handle ones slide away from each other, but you need a small flat head screwdriver to push the tab just inside where the strap goes in.

    The mirror one pops out, and the wire/knob piece is attached with a set screw on the backside of the cover. 

    Heat blanket

    in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum

    Posted

    8 hours ago, RazzNdazz said:

    I put an electric choke on my carb and had to put a spacer under my air cleaner and now my blanket rides on the air cleaner cover. That’s why I’m thinking about taking the blanket out. 

    Mine came with the same issue.... With the air cleaner cutting into the fabric. 

    It was pretty ratty, and I replaced it when she was repainted. Turn out to be a good thing, gave me a chance to clean up the surface rust on the underside of the hood.

    I just went with a shorter open air filter to clear the liner.

    • Like 1

    Best EFI?

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    Hey Carl, I've been thinking about the same thing. 

    Anyone I've asked seem to lean towards the Holley "Sniper" set up.

    But as I'm using the same intake as you are, the MSD "Atomic 2" looks like the better fit. (linkages,controls,etc.) And they're made by the same parent company.

    As to the fuel system, Holley makes an "in tank" pump/sender unit. 

    Remember, fuel injection requires about 55-60 psi to run, where carbs are only 5-7 psi. So you'll have to change all your fuel lines to rubber ones.

    Hope that helps, Scott.

    Speaker cones

    in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum

    Posted

    4 hours ago, Paul Bell said:

    Any decent speaker is gonna want 100 watts. I don't know of any in dash radio that produces more than 15 watts or so, even if they claim 50.

    There's some good compact amplifiers on the market, Alpine has a few.

    I went with the Alpine compact amp...... LOVE IT !!!

    Easy to follow diagrams and hides away nicely on the inside of the firewall. :)

    Engine still running with key out

    in Electrical Tech

    Posted

    4 hours ago, Crom Cruach said:

    Fired her up today with just one pump of the pedal to open the carb and she started right up! Very lumpy idle, but that’s now a separate issue - I’ll search the forum for existing answers. 

    Starter issue was my wiring. Dash lights & gremlins were due to the starter wiring. Star Wars cancels out Star Trek so all is good!

    Now you just have to be wary of the Red Dwarf lurking under the hood..... ;)

    • Haha 1

    Engine still running with key out

    in Electrical Tech

    Posted

    Yes, the better clearance for the wires, the better. 

    The reason I ask about the key being tough to turn back is that the actual switch may be dirty and slow to disconnect when you turn the key off.

    I had this issue with a '76 Chev Silverado years ago. The key tumbler was worn to the point that if I didn't pay attention to the position it was in when I pulled the key out, it would still make enough contact to drain the battery overnight. 

    Just a thought....

    Stiff brakes

    in Brakes and Suspension Tech

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Rob Peters said:

    There are a lot of good ideas here.  Just because all of the parts look new does not always equal that they are good, it just looks like they are new.  If the booster is new the finish looks odd, usually they are plated rather than black. 

    The booster would be my first pick.  Scott mentions the push rod which is a possibility but I thought if it was the wrong length I would think it may different symptoms.

    I would also not rule out proper bleeding of the brakes.  I thought air in the line would create spongy pedal.

    I was wondering if maybe collapsed or clogged lines.

    Have you taken it out onto a road that is gravel covered and done some braking and look at the skid marks to see if all 4 tires are locking/dragging gravel.  If you have brakes not locking it may indicate bad brake line pressure or bad calipers etc.

    Bottom line, don't trust things that look new.  We all know that nobody has ever received a bad part or two... or even three

    rob

    Hey Rob, When I first swapped the booster, I didn't set the rod long enough, and the pedal hit bottom before the piston was fully engaged in the booster.

    Gave it that really stiff feel while not fully pressurizing the lines. 

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