Scott S.
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Posts posted by Scott S.
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The original rubber hoses at the wheel end of the system may look fine, but old rubber loses it's strength over time and may be bulging when you apply the brakes.....
You could also check the push rod to see if it's not been set at the right length.
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That's just an "old age" thing...... LOL
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Air in the brake lines ???
Could be a leaky hose at the brake caliper/drum.
Had mine fail about three months after I got her..... Replaced all of them with steel braided lines.
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Just wait until you put the headers in.....
It's definitely got a short in the wiring. How's it for re-starting ??
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Great to see another one saved !!!!
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Could you place a shim in the pivot point to take some of that out ??
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The brake pedal doesn't use a return spring.... The release of hydraulic pressure returns it. That way you can tell if your brake system is failing by the amount of push on the pedal.
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I added my '70 to the existing policy ( Intact home/auto) and my rates are $125.00/year.
After the June 2020 hailstorm, they wrote her off, and after some quick dealings, they wound up giving me $14,000.00 and let me keep her.
That was more than enough to get all the damage plug the pre-existing bodywork repaired.
Now I just need to get a new appraisal to verify her value.
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You could always go for the "convertible" option.....
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1 hour ago, cny first gen 71 said:
That's a good question Brian, there's a post going now about antifreeze in stock motors. I have an aluminum intake on mine about 10 years or so and just using good old green stuff but eventually I'm going with aluminum heads too so I'm wondering what to use in that. May be a good question for Jeff from summit racing. I haven't had any corrosion problems with mine yet anyhow. I know the newer motors use different stuff and can't be mixed with the older stuff. Things that make you go hmmmm???
Hey Steve, I have aluminum heads and intake, and what I found is the Prestone "compatible with all metals" green coolant works well.
As for the "sacrificial anode", I've seen how useful they are on mixed metal engines...... Couldn't hurt.
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It's hard to get that "full surround sound" experience with any number of speakers when the windows are open and the engine running.
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Except the having to put over to flip the record would be annoying.....
I still remember when the turntable concept first showed up in the "Denim Machine"..... 1976, I think.
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You could always go with the built in system.
A high pressure tank (mounted next to your nitrous bottle) and a line to a couple nozzles under the hood.
Just clearly mark which one is which.
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When you can put your entire music collection on a "thumb drive", it just makes it easier to carry around. (and you're not fumbling with the stereo at the lights parked next to a police officer.) LOL !!
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Halotron is a safer version of the Halon systems, but I carry a class "A" carbon dioxide in my trunk.
Not cheap, but having worked in the industry, I kept the outdated ones that were slated for a recharge. There's no expiry date on "private" extinguishers in my jurisdiction.
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That's why they didn't put much effort into stereos back then......
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Not as a factory option. Cassettes didn't make the list until the late '70's. But there's tons of options if you go with that.
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Vintage Car Radio...... I think they might have what you're looking for.
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Who doesn't like to hear Phil belting out some "Thunder and Lightning" ???
Yeah, you'll need to add some leads to power multiple speakers. But seeing as you have the carpet out, that'll be easy enough to do.
There was a place that builds updated "retro " stereos..... I'll look into it and get back to you.
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WOW !!
You guys are serious resto buffs.
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18 hours ago, Rob Peters said:
Richard,
Glad to hear you got your Monte.
The hood release should be in the opening in the middle of the front bumper where the license plate area. It should be just a piece of metal that has a slight hook in it. It does not quite extend past the bumper thus the top of the bumper sort of hides it.
Regarding the dash. Neither that screw or whatever the other thing is should be there. The dash pad should be held down by screws that go straight up into it. Unfortunately the burlwood is not reproduced. You may be able to patch it but I think it will always be noticed. You may be able to find a used one either here through the members or on ebay.
rob
Check out "Mega Parts Post"..... Jared's got tons of stuff, and he's probably not that far from you.
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18 hours ago, Rob Peters said:
Tom is correct, the same lever is used for full opening. It can sometimes be a challenge. You have to contort yourself enough to do both pulling the release and lifting the hood at the same time but it does work. Maybe we should have people send pictures of themselves and the positions they have to get into to do this.
rob
Fat fingers can be an issue too.... Those greasy sausages don't always grip the bottom edge.
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1 minute ago, Dtret said:
I hate squirrels. Dang rats with long tails. They steal all my bird food too.
They cleaned out my planters last spring as well.
Put the bird feeder up in a tree where they, and the magpies, can't get at it as easily. Just wanted to give the little birds a chance.
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17 hours ago, Dtret said:
I wonder if the hood and engine are up in the tree. 😂
Squirrels took it......
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Engine still running with key out
in Electrical Tech
Posted
Is the battery draining when the key is off ??