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Scott S.

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Posts posted by Scott S.

  1. 6 hours ago, Dtret said:

    In addition to the above there’s a ton of other things also, carb setting, timing, etc. I just went easy first. 

    A good tune up never hurts. And you could check the jetting on your carb..... It may be too high, depending on where it used to live. 

  2. 18 hours ago, PatB72 said:

    Is anybody running 15x8 rally’s? If so can 255/60’s fir on front without rubbing issues? Thanks

     

    Just on the rear. i believe that using them on the front, depending on which offset you use, might rub against the steering linkage in sharp turning. As for tire contact, the age of your front suspension will determine how restricted your turning will be. But odds are pretty good that there will be some contact with that profile of tire. 

  3. Out here in the open wilds of western Canada, it can be a few miles between gas stations..... The days of having one every 50 miles are gone, even though some of the buildings are still standing. 

    The things you took for granted as a kid.... lol.

  4. 21 hours ago, Crom Cruach said:

    Brought Mulsanne down to the local tyre fitter to get a wheel alignment, and no great surprise, the car doesn’t come up on the system. Couldn’t find another A-body at all, the only Monte Carlo was 1995 5th gen (man that’s an ugly car!). 
     

    doesn anyone have specs for camber, caster, toe and anything else as a guide? I could bring the car back to them with manual settings. 
     

    image.thumb.jpg.5ecc6418ca3358a533d55aa08272c256.jpg

    That generation looks like the Lumina series..... Hopefully that's as close to a four door as they ever get. ;)

    • Haha 1
  5. 21 hours ago, MC1of80 said:

    I took the hose from the windshield washer reservoir and installed it to the radiator for the overflow tank. 

    Washer pump doesn't work at the moment and was the quickest thing to do at the track. Lolol

    Who's racing in the rain anyways ??? lol

    • Haha 1
  6. Hey Aaron, here's a photo of my '70 Monte's body tag. 

    We had a discussion some time ago re guarding the "Baltimore" body tag and "Flint" V.I.N. on the dash panel.

    I've looked at both, and they both appear to be original. The fasteners don't look like they've been changed. Any ideas on how this could have happened ?

     

    Montelishi I.D. tag.jpg

  7. Yes, that looks like a 12 bolt.... 

    As for changing up the gears, anything higher than 2.73 will require a "type 3" carrier as well as the ring and pinion gear. 

    3.55 will give you a nice "around town" feel, and not too painful on the open road. (probably around 3200-3500 rpm's at 100 km/h)

    Here's a photo of a 3.31 non positraction gearset.... 43/13. The last 4 numbers give you the ratio.

     Montelishi7.thumb.jpg.dd5cb669398b375033a084357aa5348f.jpg

    • Like 1
  8. Another thing you might want to look into is re jetting your Q jet carb. 

    Montelishi spent most of her life close to sea level, so when I got her out here I found that I could barely keep her running, and you could actually see the fuel dripping out of the exhaust tips due to the change in elevation. (2500 ft. above sea level). 

    Just something you could check up on.... 

    • Like 1
  9. And it isn't cheap !!! lol

    Premium fuel around here is about $ 1.75/liter :(

    There are dozens of ways to wake up a 350, Ignition, carbs vs. fuel injection, rear differential gears and overdrive transmissions and torque converters..... Depending on what you want to spend, and the availability of parts. A factory 350 won't do much more than about 4800 rpm's, but getting it to breathe better is always a plus.

    Once you get all the bugs worked out, ie. new fluids and filters, new rubber lines, maybe some plugs, wires and points, (if you're staying with the original ignition system for now), you'll see some improvements. But odds are pretty good you've got a differential ratio that's meant for good mileage, which will keep you from getting any real acceleration. 

    Any idea of what that might be ??

    • Like 1
  10. The fuel pump is on the passenger's side of the engine, under the "generator".. lol

    So the line goes to a can sitting on the fender well ? That would be the fuel return line.... Early emission control thingy. You can delete this if you're going to switch to header exhaust type systems.

    You'll still need the basic vacuum lines on any system. One for timing advance, on the front of the carb, one for crankcase venting. Big one on the front. Big one on the back is for the power brakes, and the two off the manifold behind the carb are for the transmission and A.C. controls. 

    If you decide to go with an "open air" intake system, the port on the passenger's side will need to be plugged as well. 

    I've never personally used a PerTronix, always found that the HEI system was a cheaper and easier swap, and there are lots of companies making parts for it. 

    But that's just me..... ;)

    • Like 1
  11. Tough call on which will go first. Funny how the Montes of the late '80's were the weakest of the four "A" bodies. 

    I had an '86 Buick T Type, with the 200r4 and 3.42 gears, and the transmission started to let go around 200,000 km's. I found out at the rebuild that Buick's version of the 2004r is unique to the car, G.N.'s and T Types, and the Montes were the last to go with 200r4s. seems almost like G.M. didn't really want to put them in there.... 

    My cousin had an '85 SS, but it was the 305ci engine that let go first. Mind you, he was still running a th350 transmission. 

  12. 17 hours ago, Crom Cruach said:

    Scott, do you mean the line that starts from the ’T’ coming out the front of the carb, and is secured to another line?

    Yes. Does it connect to the flapper valve in the air cleaner snorkel ? 

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