Scott S.
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Posts posted by Scott S.
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It's sad, really...
I remember all the parts I had "squirreled" way when I had my '86 Buick T-Type. Still got a few of them kicking around. And even a few for a '71 Chevelle I used to drive.
But the Montes are a unique breed.
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What is the overall length of your transmission ? They can vary from 29' to 34"to 38".
It sounds like you got a driveshaft for a shorter tail shaft version. So you'd want to go with the next longer shaft.
I believe the factory spec was 56"... center to center. The 5" yoke is the typical one for most 454's.
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There's usually one in just about any post '70 to mid '80's themed movie.
There's one following the cab in "Dark Shadows" (Johnny Depp version.) and Santa drove one in the opening sequence of "Black Christmas", which just goes to prove even Santa prefers a Monte Carlo !!!
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Sadly, there's not as many wrecks available here in Canada...... And you can only find so many Chevelles too.
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My opinion ?
Enjoy the heck out of it before you start taking it apart. Get to know what you want to do to it before you start something you might not want to change.
Nice find, by the way.
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Most restoration parts places have all three as separate items as well.
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Nixon had them removed because '71 was his best year in office ????
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They're a nice, easy bolt in. The only issue you may run into is the U-joint sizing and driveshaft length. "May" is the key word.
I went from a 8.2" 10 bolt to a 12 bolt (from a '72 el Camino), and because I went with a 200r4 transmission, I had to remove the balancer at the transmission end and shorten the input yoke 3/4". If you stick with the TH350, you shouldn't have this problem.
Easy Peasy.
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I think it's time for me to get new glasses....... lol.
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The steering box out of a gmc pick up doesn't align with the steering arm of the Monte Carlos. (the flat spot on the gear isn't the same.) Which is probably why you had issues with resistance. But that many turns (lock to lock) is worse than manual steering.
I'd take it back...
The steering boxes from Jeep Grand Cherokees (late 90's) are a bolt in, provided you get the metric hose thread conversion kit.
There's tons of articles that can help you find the right one. (12.7:1 ratios)
Best of luck.
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On 9/22/2021 at 8:24 AM, Canuck said:
Both seem to be a good running tire. I’ve had BFGs in the family for 40 years and were always able to clean the letters. Many of the BFGs in recent years have letters that turn brown due to a chemical that comes out of the rubber staining the letters from behind. Several of us in the club have had the issue and nothing gets them clean. There are two of these tires on my 70 and they look terrible. I’m not willing to risk my money on getting defective tires again.
I'm thinking my tires are probably a bit on the "vintage" side. lol
I've always run Bridgestones on my '04, and have gotten lots of life out of them. But sadly, they don't make anything in the "classic" sizes.
On another note, I did some more digging on the origin of Montelishi, and she is a Flint built car. So I'm still at a loss on the I.D. plate above the brake booster.
All the tags look untampered. Not sure what to make of it.
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Retro manufacturing and Muscle Cars and Classics both carry something that should work for you.
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There's not a lot of room behind the kick panels, so your best bet is to find a good slim mount speaker with a "directional" cover, or there is a molded kick panel that goes over the originals. Not sure who makes them, but they look like the easiest way with the least amount of cutting.
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On 9/18/2021 at 9:34 AM, Canuck said:
I recently switched to Cooper Cobra and quite happy with them. I was not happy with the last set of BFGs with the lettering not cleaning up white.
Here’s a discussion about switching to Coopers.
So other than the lettering issue, which seem to be a better handling tire ???
My lettering comes pretty clean when I used one of those plastic dish pads and a little dish soap. (BFs)
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How do you like the Cooper tires compared to the Goodrich ?? I get varying opinions on both.
Love the colour.....
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2 hours ago, rotinrob said:
I would take this opportunity to change it to a Jeep Grand Cherokee box. Better feel and dirt cheap, still could have the leak though. You will need a new rag joint and some metric hoses or adaptors other than that it is a direct fit and looks the same. Lots of information on A-body sites to do the swap. Very easy and worth doing compared to the no feel variable ratio box that is stock.
rotin
Tons of these steering boxes at Pick n Pull. Seams they all got retired at the same time. lol
Just be sure to check the code on the component body to make sure you get the 12.7 to 1 model.
I found that tube compression fittings worked well to hook the lines up without taking everything apart.
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An 8.2 " differential doesn't have the two "block tabs" on the bottom of the carrier housing. 8.5"/8.6" do.
Chevdiy.com has a good article on I.D.ing things.
As for going to a 700r from a th400, PATC has a step by step procedure. It involves shortening the driveshaft, changing the input yoke, changing the cross member, plus all the linkage revisions.
It'll give you better mileage, plus the overdrive on the highway will keep the rpm's down.
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4 hours ago, MCfan said:
Looks gorgeous, Brew! I love Autumn Gold on a '70 Monte (only year it was offered)! I've owned two, one with a white vinyl top and one with black. It will be great to see more photos of yours with a painted top.
Hope the paint job meets your expectations because quality isn't always proportional to wait time. I left my blue '70 with a painter all summer in FL but he didn't even start on it until I returned in the fall and then did a rush job. Same money - substandard results. Never again ....
Quick,Cheap,Perfect..... Pick any two.
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Yes, changing to a 3.08 gear requires a "type 3" carrier. (3.08-3.73) And depending on the differential, (8.2"), it may just be easier to go to the 12 bolt. 8.2" parts are getting hard to find.
If you've got the 8.5"/8.6", you'll have better luck finding parts.
I've heard some good things about Edelbrock's carb bodied fuel injection systems.... Any thoughts ??
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Are you using a modern "digital" stereo ??
If so, they require a full time battery connection as well as an ignition connection, to keep the clock and tuner set.
If these leads get crossed, then you'll have to reset all those functions every time to start the car.
Or if one of the leads isn't even connected, you may not be getting power to your stereo. ie. Ignition to battery lead and no power to ignition lead.
As for factory radios, that's a completely independent circuit.
One thing I have found with G.M. ignition switches is that over time, the "turned back" position on the key tends to fail. Not sure if it's just a worn out point in the switch, or dirt build up that isolates the point.
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No, not something meant for highway trips. lol !!
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It's usually a full time power feed to options over the base model.
ie. lighter, stereo, horn.... or anything that operates when the ignition is turned off.
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I've been working through the same process with mine. ('70)
The 350 is set up with a similar Edelbrock kit (1405 series carb)
I personally went with the 200r4 transmission..... Easier to switch than the 700 and has a wider gear separation.
Still have the 10 bolt/2.73 rear end. It's fantastic on the highway.
1750 rpm at about 60 mph, and when I step into it with the engine the way it is, She'll grab 2nd gear and take off like a rocket !!
I'm planning to put a 12 bolt/3.31 rear end in this fall, should make it more "streetable".... The 2.73 just doesn't twist up fast enough off the light.
But with the 0.67 to 1 overdrive, the highway mileage shouldn't suffer to much. These "newer" transmissions are actually nice in the gas consumption department.
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2 hours ago, Canuck said:
Yeah, this was kind thrown together last minute after the Western Meet was cancelled. Hopefully I’ll see you at a future meet.
Montelishi's still in the shop anyways, but I'm sure once she's out, I'll run into (lol) some of these people somewhere.
Good to see there are more out there.
Monte parts hoard (show us your junk!)
in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum
Posted
That's probably why my winter driver is an '04.