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Scott S.

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Posts posted by Scott S.

  1. Just now, Scott S. said:

    Not sure what brand my headers are, they came with the car. But the problem is the same. 

    Had to unbolt them and went with the short plugs (NGK) as well. 

    Guess that's why so many members prefer big blocks.....LOL

    lha10.thumb.jpg.b47429157e3cb547484b16b6ec1695ed.jpglha12.thumb.jpg.76ee55ee6ca2b62916f66c3885213c85.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. Not sure what brand my headers are, they came with the car. But the problem is the same. 

    Had to unbolt them and went with the short plugs (NGK) as well. 

    Guess that's why so many members prefer big blocks.....LOL

  3. Welcome Wesley,

    From the looks of the pin connector, it appears to be the one that plugs into the player.. also known as the "head unit". 

    I don't think you'll find an adapter, but if the previous owner bought the stereo as a package, the Pioneer website should have a diagram that will guide you to what goes where. Then it should be a simple job of matching wires..... 

    Best 'o' luck, Scott

    • Like 2
  4. Bob,

    396SS.com has some stuff that might help.

    Here's a couple things that can get you started.

    My guess is that if there's no serial number, it's probably a replacement.

    Scott.

    engine codes.jpg

    EngineCodepartialVIN.jpg

    • Like 2
  5. In the infamous words of Jimmi.....

    Hey Joe, (lol) 

    The second white wire does come off of the door switch, but, as discussed, it disappears somewhere along the edge of the dash/parking brake assembly. 

    I'll take a better look the next time I get under there, as I can't really tell by looking down from the top side. 

    Thanks for all your insights. 👍

    • Like 2
  6. Yes.

    I've connected the wire to a live feed, but then they stay on all the time.

    I'm was thinking that they need to connect to the door switch, but the diagram shows some sort of block connection in line.

  7. I recently replaced the light switch in Montelishi, and I still can't find the connection spade for the white/light grey 20 gauge wire that operates the under dash lights. 

    I've looked at the diagrams on here, and they show what appears to be some sort of common connection block............ But I just can't seem to find it. 

    It has a smaller female spade end on it, but not sure where it attaches.

    Any ideas ?

  8. So the smaller buckles don't fit the male ends in the recoil boxes ?

    I've got a '70 with bucket seats, and the front seats have smaller ones than the back seat. 

    I believe that they are spring loaded and just pressed together, but I'm sure someone here has taken them apart before. 

    lha14.thumb.jpg.28f86b2ce54ceebdaab6761d72823ca2.jpgResized_20210924_125201_2107.thumb.jpg.1c33231e878ba196d62f53c045ccc70b.jpg

  9. My understanding of the two different sizes of buckles for the front seats is so you could tell which belt connected to which, as the lap belt adjustment was in the box, whereas the adjustment on the shoulder belt was in the lower belt itself. If the buckles were the same size, one could confuse them and they'd be out of adjustment. 

    Mind you, a tight belt across your wife's/girlfriend's/hitch hiker's chest might be a good thing. ;)

    • Like 2
  10. If memory serves me right.... the two belts on the right are front seat lap belts that fit to the recoil boxes, the three sets in the middle are rear seats, and the one reversed female belt in the middle is for the shoulder belt. But I'm thinking there should be two of those. 

  11. 17 hours ago, John S said:

    With your experience in machining, you should have no problem. I made an installer with a piece of 1/2 inch fine thread all thread, two correctly sized pieces of pipe one braced against the ears on the pumpkin, and the other sized to the diameter of the bushing, and a flat plate and drew them in by tightening the nut. And yes, I did freeze them overnight and lubricated them when installing.
    John S

    Large sockets work too....

    • Like 3
  12. Doing it on blocks creates more work than yo need.... 

    As for bending the bracket, a really big cresent(monkey) wrench works. Just clamp it to to bracket and you'll effectively have a pry bar. 

    When it came to getting the bushing sleeve out, I used a hacksaw to cut it down the length and basically split it. Not sure if you'd have room while the diff is still in the car, so a small sawsall and a lot of caution might be the way to go. 

    • Like 2
  13. I've questioned some of this "distilled" water before. Not sure if it's the water or just the container, but I had a few 1 gallon jugs that had brown sediment in them.

    Not sure if there's an expiry date for this stuff, but I haven't bought any from Super Store since. I think Walmart uses the same..... Could just be by territory ?

    Also, if you have aluminum components, there is a different A/F recommended for that. 

    • Like 1
  14. Montelishi spends her winters outside, and I just don't want to take the chance on these -40 degree cold snaps. 

    I flush the system every spring before putting her back on the road, and use an additive to lubricate the system. Seems to work.... so far. 

    • Like 1
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