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Rod, I still am unable to find that valve. I traced the brake line all the way back to the rear after it leaves the proportioning valve (top left device in the 3 device pix above) and do not find it. I specifically focused on the drivers side near the cross member (around where the driver's door is). Could my 70 not have had that part?

Yes. Thank you very much. I was looking in the wrong area of the car.

Thank you. Any pictures or diagrams from a 1970 service manual? I only noticed a T-like part that attaches to the top of the differential cover.

I have a 1970 MC that has factory front disc brakes and factory rear drums. I purchased a number of brake system parts from Inline tube to replace factory parts, I successfully removed and replaced the booster and master cylinder. I also replaced a valve (PR-115) referred to as a hold off valve that attaches to one of the bolts on the booster and a distribution block that attaches to the driver's side of the frame. They also sold me another hold off valve (PR 104D) that I cannot seem to figure out where it attaches. Anyone have an idea or picture where it goes?

Thanks guys. So the eye clip (?) affixes to the end of a bolt that protrudes out. I saw in a manual that there may be two of these eye clips.

I am removing and replacing my fuel pump. In the process of removing it, I notice that the positive battery cable was routed directly next to, and ran close alongside the fuel pump. The cable has enough insulation so it has not been a problem with arcing. But I noticed that the cable has a clip hanging loosely around it and wondered if the middle of the positive cable should be attached to the body somewhere to keep it away from the fuel pump or other parts of the engine. The clip has a hole through which a bolt seems to go. I can't seem to find a bolt hole along the body where the clip would mount. ANy ideas or pictures would help.

Just curious about the question initially raised. The white filter (about $2 bucks) would be inside the canister but the canister would also have activated charcoal, I assume like the charcoal inside most aquarium filters. I thought I read somewhere that the charcoal also needs to be replaced over time. I assume it would lose its "activity" and need to be replaced along with the white filter. How does the canister open anyway? I have the same smelly fuel problem and am going to start checking hoses as many of you suggested.

Were these belt (?) moldings an option on a 1970 MC? I have three of the four pieces (need a rear driver side?) and was going to put them on my 70 but not if they were not a correct fitment.

I took off the rear cover to the differential yesterday to change the gear oil. Been wondering whether to convert to a posi traction. I have the standard 12 bolt 2.73 gears. I can't seem to find a posi unit that would seem to swap out with the same gear ratio. Do I have to go a higher ratio and, if so, will it fit in the same axle housing? Anyone done this before? Finally, what is the gear oil capacity on the rear differential? I put in about 2 quarts (a little bit down my arm too) before it started leaking out.

Thanks folks, I'll probably just go with lowering springs in the rear.

I am hoping to replace the OE springs and shocks on the rear of my 70 MC. I want to have a lower profile in the rear, maybe 2 inches lower. Anyone know what the height of the original springs is? To achieve the desired look, is it as simple as finding and installing springs that are 2 inches shorter? Will I need to find shocks that are any different that what I would have installed were I not to have shortened the springs. I thought I read somewhere that shocks do not set the height, they just control the ride. Any thoughts including brands would be appreciated.

Removed the old shocks and am having trouble installing new monroe shocks. Read a few posts that mention others using same shock. I can insert shock and attach top bolt on upper control arm but getting shock through the hole in lower control arm is a pain, plus getting the bottom flange through the indentions on lower control is #&@! Any suggestion are appreciated.

Thinking about having an alarm installed on my 70 MC. I have factory power door locks that I would want to unlock when I press the key fob (just like new cars work today). Any thoughts on type/manufacturer of alarm? Any type I should stay away from?

I am trying to remove the long straight chrome srip that runs along each of the sides of the car, from the back of the front tire well to the rear of the back tire well. It is all chrome as opposed to the ones above it that are painted black in the middle. I have found only one sheet metal screw toward the back end of the piece but assume there are other clips underneath it that help attach it to the body. Anyone have a clue on how to remove it without tweaking the chrome or doing other damage?

I have a small but frustrating leak that I suspect is coming from the rear main seal of my '70 MC 350 auto. Oil seems to be dripping from the black plastic cover (flywheel cover?) next to the oil pan. Is this a pain in the [you said a naughty!] fix that requires the engine to be moved? I suspect the seal (2 piece?) itself is the cheap part.

Getting closer. It is not related to the stock radio because that has a harness not a 3 wire plug. Seems that it could be the heater. It would be long enough to reach behind the heater control. I have not been able to check the operability on the Ac because the clutch on the compressor is broken (that is another fix down the road). However, I have used the fan to get the heater to work during cold days here in Sacramento. I will explore behind the AC/heater control to see if the plug inadvertently came off something back there. You guys are really a big help troubleshooting this.

Yes, I had a factory AM radio with a fader that I replaced with a factory Delco AM/FM stereo from a 75 Nova. I don't think either used that three wire plug. Both had their own harness but I will double check to verify that the Am radio did not have a three wire plug. The plug (as opposed to radio harness)has two ports that are parallel and one that is aligned across the top.

While removing the dash for another reason, I came across an unused plug that made me wonder what it is intended for. It has light blue, yellow and orange wires going into a single plug. It seems to be wrapped with the wires that turn on the dome light when you open the doors. I wonder whether it is for the under dash courtesy light option but question why it would have so many wires. I have most of the other options on my 70 (defogger,A/C, etc). Any ideas?

Perfect. I knew someone here would have the right answer. I still would have thought that the button would be better situated on the left side so that the driver wouldn't have to lean over so far to pop the trunk. Oh well.

I seem to recall seeing a factory diagram that was posted that showed the green/yellow button located on the right hand side of the glove compartment box. I am in the process of drilling the hole in the glove compartment box but wondered whether it should be closer to the driver by being located on the left hand side of the box? I have enough wire to go either way, but want to be as original as possible. I have the dash pad off and noticed that there aren't a lot of places to locate the button because of the metal brackets along side each wall of the box. I have a green button for my '70. Any thougths?

Thank you a lot. There always seesm to be a few guys (and gals) who know exactly how to troubleshoot these minor details. Will reply back to let you know how things worked out and what I learned.

I did not consider the possibility that the fader control function might be built in on the radio. Probably another metal sleeve around the right tuner control stem? The fader control I have been attempting to describe for the factory AM only radio is cuplike, slides onto the right tuner stem before you attach the actual knob, and is joined within the dash housing to three other speaker wires. This may be simpler if the fader is built in. I am hoping to realize the full stereo effect and thus, want to wire this radio to all four speakers in the most accurate way possible.

That is exactly what I propose to do. The stereo radio I have has the 9 pin plug that attaches to the rear of the radio. The wires protrude about 2 -3 inches from the plug. There is a Yellow (12 V), Grey (light for dial), 2 separate wires for the LF & RF, two separate wires for the LR & RR, and a few black ground wires. I intend to cut the wires from 6 pin plug about 3 inches back of the plug and then try and adapt these additional wires to each new speaker. I am just trying to figure out how to account for the fader I currently have on the factory speaker setup. I know what it does (rear to front), but I haven't figured out whether to run a new two strand wire to the additional rear speaker or just split the existing two strand wire that already goes to the factory rear speaker. I'm sure someone has doen this before.

My 70 MC came with a factory Delco AM radio with two speakers in front and one speaker installed in the rear. I found a Delco factory AM/FM stereo (out of a 75 Nova) that seems to fit and am in the process of stalling it. I found another identical 6X9 speaker to match the existing rear speaker. So now I need to either run another wire for the new rear speaker or split the two stranded existing wire and ground each rear speaker to the rear body frame. Question I have is how do I interconnect the new speaker into the existing wiring I have for the AM radio and incorporate the fader switch? Any ideas, especially with pix or diagrams, would help.

Bad valves. Reading on the 5th cylinder was about 100 lbs. Others were between 180 and 210 lbs.