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Posts posted by Brew
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1 hour ago, Dtret said:
I picked up the one for my 71 from The Parts Place. It was brass and it fit it the box nice and tight. They also sell a seal kit if you want it. But as Joe stated in another thread it does the job but no information on what piece goes where.
Thanks
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Update
i have removed heater core. With dash in the car I got it out. Like many said in this thread it was a time consuming job. Just have to be patient & find all the connections, nuts etc.
my core looks pretty good. I took it to a radiator place I trust to test it & see if it is good. If anyone knows where to get an OEM heater core new I’d like to know about it.
these aluminum ones worry me, a lot.
anyway, thanks for all the help.
now I wait to try & put it back in!
Another update:
The Parts Place has brass/copper heater cores as of 7/21
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I’ll show that to my wife. An ENGINEER! 🤣
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I’m convinced that automotive engineers all live in houses without numbers & have unlisted phone numbers. 😡
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18 minutes ago, Dtret said:
Engineers? Mostly great people but....remember this is 50 years of wear and tear. An aging electrical system. Rust and corrosion cause resistance. I’ve pulled many wires apart that looked good on the outside but were green on the inside
This guy is a really good one. He is retired. In his 70’s. He used to build torpedoes for the navy. Designed & built electrical systems for them. He’s not a drawing room only type of engineer. Very hands on. But I know what you mean nevertheless
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10 minutes ago, jft69z said:
High resistance causes heat. If the wires and connector current carrying capacity is exceeded due to higher current flow, bad things happen. Your 14 ga. wires are typically good for up to 15 amps, the 16 ga. wire up to 10 amps. If it were me, I'd hook up an ammeter in the circuit and check the actual draw. I'd also use an ohmmeter across your blower resistor contacts and see what you come up with.
Maybe compare the old, rusty one to the new one if you kept it. Look at how that resistor is put together, the actual wires are just crimped to the terminals, not soldered, etc. Add rust & corrosion at that physical joint=higher resistance.
Could also be a poor connection at the plug, and also a bad blower motor that's drawing excess current. Again, measuring actual current is the best place to start troubleshooting. Then you know what you're dealing with.
I’m not much of an electrician but I’ll try to do that stuff. Thank you for the suggestions.
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2 hours ago, jft69z said:
I don't think that diagram applies Dennis, as it's for a non-A/C vehicle.
The plug D.B. has in his hand should be a 3 position plug, and it looks like evidence of a prior repair shows the tan wire by itself on the fan switch (yellow crimp terminal). It appears the connector is broken/damaged. As such, the wires are of a larger gauge as well it seems.
The diagram of an A/C setup as in your other thread would be correct, I believe.
High resistance like Dennis mentioned could cause it to melt possibly. Pop the blower resistor out of the engine compartment box & see if it's all rusty or corroded. That could cause issues.
An electrical engineer I know just told me it is unlikely that corroded resistor caused the melting plug.
I guess we will see
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That’s interesting because
1 hour ago, jft69z said:I don't think that diagram applies Dennis, as it's for a non-A/C vehicle.
The plug D.B. has in his hand should be a 3 position plug, and it looks like evidence of a prior repair shows the tan wire by itself on the fan switch (yellow crimp terminal). It appears the connector is broken/damaged. As such, the wires are of a larger gauge as well it seems.
The diagram of an A/C setup as in your other thread would be correct, I believe.
High resistance like Dennis mentioned could cause it to melt possibly. Pop the blower resistor out of the engine compartment box & see if it's all rusty or corroded. That could cause issues.
That may be it. I replaced blower motor resistor & it was pure rust. I have not run the ac again since but ran blower to test because I replaced it.
I am going to separate this connector into 2 individual spade connections & test it out.I’ll start on that as soon as my heater coil is back in. Did I mention I hate cars? 😁
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Anyone else have this issue?
I think it is the control for the blower motor.
I can replace it but wondered if anyone knows why it’s doing that?
It was like that when I bought the car and I replaced it before so this is second time it has done that.
I see no contact with any other spade on back of controller.
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Agree with Mc180
ground or unit bad
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The lower fender patch OPGI sells is a piece of galvanized crap imo.
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I want to convert my rear brakes but probably need a whole new rear end.
the money pit has reached its limit for this year. ☹️
Good info in this thread. Thanks
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Happy
in New Members
8 minutes ago, stangeba said:Welcome Jerry!
I love old gas stations as a background!
First right hand drive Monte I have ever seen! 😊
Good catch!
I missed that. Wow. I’ve never seen or heard of that in a Monte. Cool! -
2 minutes ago, Dtret said:
No it’s not. The blowout clip is the one that connects the two trim parts together. It’s triangle shaped. You can buy them.
True. But I saw the term used for both. Either way it got me to the part for sale. Have a good day
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eBay has them I believe.
I ordered a pair. I will report back if they are correct
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It’s called a BLOWOUT CLIP (by some people) it’s also called A Pillar Post Weatherstrip Inner Clip
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I THINK I FOUND THEM! But they look taller than mine in that pic.
https://shop.docrebuild.com/1969-1982CorvetteWindshieldPostWeatherstripRetainerReproOfGM7657090.aspx
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Those big headrests seem GM to me though. Idk for sure
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9 minutes ago, 1970mcss said:
I'm trying to learn how to read these diagrams, they can be confusing
Try doing it in the rain on a tarmac in high winds at night. Good times. 🤣
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I can try to make some if there is demand for them.
ill mess with it next time I’m metal working -
Happy
in New Members
Good looking ride!
A/c control wire connector melting?
in Electrical Tech
Posted
This is second plug like that to melt.
the first was on the original ac controller. I got a refurbished one & replaced both the plug & the blower motor. So I’m leaning towards resistor.
I will try out the testing suggested first. To be continued...