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71SSclone

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Posts posted by 71SSclone

  1. Not much to report but things have been moving on my Monte. They discovered a little rocker panel rust, all rusty sections were cut out and new metal was welded in. Very small amount of rust was found on the front fenders behind the front wheels. Repaired accordingly. All new body mounts were installed, and used replacement GM door hinges were rebuilt.

    I ordered 2 doors from Leo, and they arrived a few months ago. My shop sent them out to be blasted and they came back as expected...rust free. But one had a dent in it, not sure if it was covered up by bondo, or if it fell and got dented after blasting. My body shop said they would take care of it. Much easier to fix a dent then work with a rusty door. 

    I'll check on it this week and see if any progress has been made. He lets me keep my enclosed trailer on his property, and I need to pick it up and trade it for a new one. When I was moving to Fl. I pulled my car into the trailer and couldn't get out. Too large (fat), so I guess I need a trailer with a left side escape door. More money.

    Pictures to follow

    • Like 3
  2. I hooked the defroster blower motor up to the battery and it worked. The rear defrost was not connected to the capacitor(?) located behind the rear seat. I really paid no attention to it when I gutted the interior. Just something else to figure out on re-assembly.

     

     

    • Like 1
  3. 31 minutes ago, Dtret said:

    Don’t throw anything away.

    I cant keep everything. Im in the middle of a major move to Fl from Pa. I have 23 years of accumulated "stuff" in this house that isn't coming down to the sunshine state. Some things are not going to make it. lol

  4. Dennis, those light indicators would look perfect on your 70. They are just as pitted and corroded as your body shell. lol

    Makes sense that the actuators are from a wagon, thats why I have 5 of them. Hopefully I have the correct door harnesses to add power locks to mine. 

  5. When I bought my Monte Carlo, I also received boxes of spare parts. I started going through them to try to figure out what I have, what I should keep, and what to throw away. If you all could help me identify what I have, I would appreciate very much. Thanks.

    Pics to follow. 

  6. Sorry, been a little slow on the updates. But, to be honest, not much as gone on. They have had a bunch of insurance work come in, which takes precedence over restoration projects. I knew that going in, so I'm not upset at all. The floorboards are almost done, they need to install the outer wheel houses, then they can weld everything up on the interior and seam seal everything. The doors that I got from Koniks were sent out to be blasted. They were really good to begin with, but everything is being taken down to bare metal. Pictures to follow.

  7. Good to know. Thanks Joe.  My GM A-body experience came from mainly Buick Skylarks and GS's back in the day. (30 years ago or more) I could have sworn it was a threaded shaft and nuts. But, it was a long time ago and memories from then are faded. Glad a took alot of pictures back then. 

    John 

    • Like 1
  8. On 2/19/2022 at 9:18 PM, RazzNdazz said:

    12AB104E-1458-4A62-8BCB-F6F52A1E840B.thumb.jpeg.15bf7bc9f5296ab8b6ca8fe7112e18ff.jpeg
     

    Late to the party here, but I have a question. Is it a factory application to have bolts going in to the upper control arm shaft, to hold the bushings in place? In the past, I have only seen upper control arm shafts that were externally threaded and the bushings were held by a nut and washer. When I bought my Monte, the upper control arms were falling off, due to the bolts backing out and falling off. I ordered new upper control arms and they were manufactured the same way (with the bolt).  I just figured it was a cheap "made in China" part but now Im not sure.

    John

  9. 8 hours ago, amsterdam84 said:

    Are you sure the jegs control arms fix geometry issues? I thought I'd read they were basically tubular control arms built to factory specs.

     

    I personally went with QA1 control arms and the Viking Performance coilover set front and rear.

    Thats a good point. Some tubular control arms are built stock specs, while others change the suspension geometry. Need to find out what you have.

    John

  10. 5 hours ago, 1972mc said:

    Jegs has no written specs on their site and I did not bother to call and talk with a "kid"(:

    Having scoured many posts, and mag articles here is what I'm going with:

    .5 negative camber 

    4.0 positive caster

    1/16-1/8 toe

    That should get you in the ballpark. I was going to do 4.5 positive caster, -0.7 camber, and 1/16 toe in. 

  11. 17 hours ago, Paul Bell said:

    As much prep work I did to the stock evaporator box, my arm was twisted by a friend who says the Vintage Air system works just as well while eliminating the box under the hood.

    I had to pull out the right fender well-it’s steel. 

    As the dash needs to come out to do the AC box, and there was more arm twisting, I’m gonna get the Dakota Digital cluster to do at the same time.

    15 year.jpg

    Paul.

    I plan on doing the same thing (Vintage Air and Dakota Digital) while my car is at the body shop. Lets us know how it works out!

    John

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