Crom Cruach
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Posts posted by Crom Cruach
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Can anyone tell me how to remove the door handles? Getting ready for paint and much as I don’t want to remove them I might regret it later. Also is it possible to open the door when they are off?
spear wasn’t easy to remove either
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done, cheers for the instructions
my little helper
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8 hours ago, jft69z said:
Painted it in 1990, DuPont base/clear. First car I ever painted.
Holy smoke what a beauty, thanks for setting the bar so high!
I’ve gone from this:
to this:
with fibreglass and epoxy primer. Getting rid of all the rust first , then epoxy primer, high-build primer, then paint, insect layer, clear, ask I missing anything?
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Genius. I can get those big dust sheets they sell for painting your house. Shame my compressor is only 7 gallons! I guess it will just take a little longer with a little lvlp spray gun. I’m not in a rush. How did your Camaro turn out?
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4 hours ago, 71SSclone said:
Mine is being painted in pieces, because of the extensive bodywork it needed, but I believe they are going to paint the body with the trunk lid installed. The front clip is in pieces, so they will paint each piece separate.
I would ask your bodyshop what they recommend.
John
Well I’m defo not taking the doors off, and that’s good news if a body shop can get it painted with the trunk lid on. I think I can get a good coat on the hood edges with the hood open, then close it to finish the job with 2 or 3 coats. Open again for clear and rinse & repeat. My main fear is bugs & spiders falling off the shed roof while the clear is flashing 🕷️
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yeah I’ll go after front and rear bumpers I reckon. Debating taking off the hood and trunk lids too. What you guys think?
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The end cap is this area Tom?
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How on earth do you remove the side pieces of the rear molding on a ‘72? Getting the car ready for diy paint
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On 8/2/2023 at 9:20 PM, Scott S. said:
Check the odometer when you get it back..... See if it's been on any "unknown" road trips.
€800 ($880) to fit the headers. Prob should have tried to fit them myself. Classic cars are a money pit! (Well definitely when you have to ships parts across the pond)
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I also have the 7042202 quadrajet 4MV 1972. They are extremely lean from the factory, and ethanol makes it run leaner. On advice from Cliff Ruggles I changed the jets from 74 to 76, and the rods from 45B to 44B. Also important to change the accelerator pump to an ethanol-proof one.
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5 hours ago, Scott S. said:
All that room under the hood and still a tight fit.
stop, it’s been with my mechanic for two days, what is he doing with it? it’s gonna be a hefty bill anyway 😮
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Doug’s D308 headers being installed in the 350. Looks like the starter is a tight fit. I wish I’d gone for a mini when I replaced the clapped out original. I have the remote solenoid so that might keep it cool, providing the battery + cable isn’t getting fried.
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Cheers Tom, what should be in it? Not just the filter at the bottom surely?
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Replacing the charcoal canister filter and loads of black granules came flying out, is this the charcoal that absorbs nasties? I lost maybe an egg cup of the stuff, do I need to replace it? Or did I just find the mouse poo bonanza?
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I’d love to take a closer look at the numbers, and see if it was taken care of or abused. Then take her out for a rip!
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Apparently the original engine was a 305, I wonder if it got the chassis upgrades to handle the bigger engine. Really nice car though with the blood red interior. Very tempting!
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I found a mechanic in Dublin who knows his way around American muscle, so I was poking around his storage room and found this little beauty hiding under there! Very much like firebirds esp 2nd gen. One of the few I think might be better than 1st gen. Possibly same for GTO’s
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Cheers Sammy, I thought it might be a simple thing, a specific head matched to a certain engine, but I can’t find any info on it. Might have to order gaskets and crack them valve covers open!
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Ok I know I should just pop off the valve covers and look, but I don’t have a gasket set handy! So does anyone know what heads are in a ‘72 350 4bbl?
some internet detectoring says 487 heads, but is there a way to know without cracking it open?
Engine tag V0730CKD 12B500574
Flint, Michigan, July 30, 350 ci 4-barrel with TH 350 trans
J: 350-4bbl L48 175hp
2: 1972
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OK I could buy a spare 'fuel pump to carb' steel line and customize it, but the open end won't be barbed to hold the hose properly, so I think plan A is to get an inverted flare fitting.
Check out this, it looks like it would fit both carb and pump, but do I need a section of double flared line to go inside, and act as a kind of washer?
Brass Straight Tube Fitting, 3/8" Hose x 5/8"-18 Male Inverted Flare Swivel Straight Brass
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BH74JOC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
or this: Edelmann 821660
Inverted Flare to Hose Barb, Straight, Brass, Natural, 5/8-18 in.
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I don’t know if I want to cut the original line. Feels a bit permanent! I think it’s the ethanol making the fuel boil, but also the line is so close to the block it’s actually touching at one point. Not ideal (see photo). Ok research I think it’s actually 7/8 inch x 20 fuel inlet till 1971, 1 inch after 72.
https://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=7042202
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Thanks Steve. What I’m really after is the thread size & pitch of the fuel pump and carb - I need a connector to replace the metal fuel line
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trying to fix suspected vapor lock. I want to fit a 3 way filter close to the quadrajet, so I have to bypass the metal fuel line. Also fitting a small inline fuel pressure gauge. I'm confused trying to figure out the various fittings, so many options! Can anyone confirm the thread size for the fuel pump and carb inlets?
I think fuel pump inlet is 7/8 inch x20 threads female
and the quadrajet fuel inlet is 5/8 inch x18 threads female
is this correct?
I have to order these parts from the States, so I can't just bring the metal line down to my local motor factors!
Thanks
Remove door handles
in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum
Posted
Ok so I have no excuse for not removing them is what you’re saying 😂