Crom Cruach

I bought these seals from summit (photo 1) and they don’t seem to match what was on my ‘72 (photo 2). Do they fit like in my photo where I’m holding them in place? (Photo 3). The current ones are smaller and flat but these seem to have to fold over the edge of the inner fender.

Got the engine bay and some of the chassis parts sanded, primed and painted. I used POR-15 for parts I couldn’t remove enough rust from, and zinc 182 primer on bare metal and over some existing paint. Final coat in 30% gloss urethane enamel. Just 1k in a rattle can. Pretty Pleased with the result!

From Haynes workshop manual: 9. Engine mounts - replacement with engine in vehicle 1 If on inspection, the flexible mounts have become hard or are split or separated from their metal backing, they must be replaced. This operation may be carried out with the engine/transmission still in the vehicle. See Section 23 for the proper way to raise the engine while it is still in place. Front mounts 2 Remove the through-bolt and nut. 3 Raise the engine slightly using a hoist or jack with wood block under the oil pan, then remove the mount and frame bracket assembly from the crossmember. 4 Install the new mount, install the through-bolt and nut, then tighten all the bolts to the specified torque. The thru-bolt must be installed from the rear on the right-hand side mount. Rear mount 5 Remove the crossmember to mount bolts then raise the trans- mission slightly using a jack. 6 Remove the mount to transmission bolts, followed by the mount. 7 Install the new mount, lower the transmission and align the crossmember to mount bolts. 8 Tighten all the bolts to the specified torque.

Aha. I figured anything rubber was considered maintenance. I have a full set of moog rubber in a box, except for the MOOG ES2004S Steering Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve which was out of stock. Also moog springs and Bilstein shocks

Thanks for the clarity guys. According to the Haynes manual you can replace the engine mounts in place. I’ll find out soon enough. I enjoy taking it apart and learning how it works! Strong dislike scraping grime and scrubbing with brushes and paint stripper.

Ok valve covers and intake, clean, paint, gasket, bolt back on, no fuss no muss?

I hear ya. Slightly leaky gaskets is all. I figured while I’m this far in I might as well replace them. I’m thinking about it while I paint the frame. I might still just replace the two front freeze plugs and leave it there - start painting the block, leave the rest for next year.

Hi lads, so I'm weighing up my options. If the other post is option A, this post is option B, and I want to understand the steps (and cost) involved with each route before I decide the best way to go. Option A, I have to get her towed to the mechanic as is. So I need to keep her apart until I have all the rebuild parts I want. I need time to figure out what I want, and allow time for the order. I guess I need to save for it too!. Looking at a new cam, pistons, timing set, bearings, probably headers too. I'm just reading up on static vs dynamic compression. Want to get the most out of her while on e5 fuel (91 octane). It's a bigger project, might be further away than end of summer. Option B, if I can do the freeze plugs, head gaskets, and engine mounts myself while I have the engine apart, I can put it all together and send it to my mechanic for suspension work. Call it done for a year or two of driving with no leaks. I can live without performance enhancements for now. Worth noting I don't have an engine lift so I have to work on the engine in place. Pulling it = mechanic.

Can I pull the heads without disconnecting the AC? I have it moved over to the side but it’s all connected and I’m not messing with it. I haven’t done this before. With everything else removed can I just remove the distributor, plugs, loosen exhaust manifold and drain the oil?

Thanks Tom. That’s what you call deck clearance is that right? Do you use gasket maker or anything to help attach the gaskets?

I bought a set of Fel-Pro HS7733SH2 head gaskets thinking they are stock replacements, but they are .015” compressed. Can I use these for a straight head / valve cover gasket replacement or do I need to get stock thickness .039 gaskets? 350 sbc https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-HS7733SH2

some painted bits. I’m painting the power steering assembly too, it’s not easy to clean. Carb off next then I’ll really go after the engine

Love it. I have a new water pump - is there any wisdom in painting before it goes on? Should I paint behind it (looks painted already). Also, what paint did you use for the black engine parts - pulleys, brackets etc. I have an acrylic enamel 80% gloss and I hope it’s tough enough. I have 30% gloss polyurethane enamel for the chassis parts.

Haha thanks Andy, it's 'authentic'! Soon to be tidied up a bit though, just a little less rust and I'll be happy. Folks, is it possible to replace the freeze plugs without pulling the block? Can I remove the motor mounts one side at a time and get at the side ones? How about the back? I'm changing trans fluid & gaskets anyway maybe the time to get at them? Also, would you go poly or rubber for replacement motor mounts? Do I have the early style "tall and narrow" mounts? 1972 sbc.

ok guys here’s what I’m thinking - put me straight here if it sounds wrong… I’ve spent enough this year, planning an engine rebuild next year including a bigger cam, 3/4” wide Morse timing set, good flat top pistons and Clevite bearings. Keep the stock 487 heads. keep the quench under .040” So for now, replace the leaking freeze plug, clean & paint what I can get at, new v-belts, new pump, re-cored rad, some new hoses, put her back together and drive her to my mechanic to get the suspension done. Enjoy actually driving the car for the rest of summer! In short, do you think the time frame is acceptable, leaving the other freeze plugs for 6 months or so?

Yeah you might be right, gonna call him tomorrow and make a plan. Would you consider a new head gasket a rebuild? What else should he do while she’s on the operating table? he’s replacing all the suspension / steering mounts too

Antifreeze can’t stop the snowball! I might just replace the ones I can get at, paint what I can, and reassemble. I have to drive the car to my mechanic and I’m not sure he does engine painting. Maybe I can paint the back of the block when he has it out? @Dtret definitely leaking I’m sorry to report as for bigger engine - I’m thinking about a larger cam, talking to Cliff Ruggles about this. I might start another post for it!

Christ on a bike. I’ll get my mechanic to do it. What parts would I need - anything exotic?

Can anyone tel me what this circle is? It seems to leak a little fuel when I push it.

Ok no engine primer, that’s a relief. Do I need a clear coat on top of the engine enamel?

I’m gonna give it the POR15 treatment, I have the degreaser and metal prep, and 80% gloss acrylic enamel paint for the final coat. Would the pulleys survive rattle can painting, or is powdercoat the smart choice? Now that I think of it, Does the engine need primer before the VHT high temp paint?

Awesome, thanks Denis, now for lots and lots of cleaning!

@Canuck I think I saw a post where you did something similar, would you have any pointers at this stage?

I took the radiator out to get re-cored, and while it was out I decided to go at the engine. I have a couple of questions for you guys, and who doesn’t like a few bullet points?: • is it safe to power wash the engine after I scrape away the heavy stuff? I mean I’m not going to blast away at the alternator, holes will be plugged, and the harmonic balancer has grease that should probably be left alone. any other less obvious no-go areas? • Pulleys - media blast and Powdercoat the best option here? All satin black? • should I pull away the A/C, power steering assy, alternator to get at the block, and is it possible / safe to move them out of the way but still attached? I’m not draining anything else. • are there any important torque setting I need to know about when bolting everything back on? Crankshaft pulley / water pump / etc. • harmonic balancer - it looks like it has a gasket, do I need to replace, or is it ok to clean it up? Does it need new grease in there?

While I have you guys here - should the bottom of the shroud be tucked inside the rad mount (first photo), or outside and held on with clip (2nd pic)?