Crom Cruach

Can anyone confirm this is where the starter bracket fits - this bolt on the starter, and this threaded hole under the plugs? Also anyone know the bolt thread pitch / length I need ?

So, same but for longer? Chemical flush?

I ran the garden hose through with the engine running for 10 minutes, is that a good flush, or are you talking about a professional treatment Scott?

Local mechanic is advising me to replace the water pump, get the rad cleaned and sealed, and replace hoses. the water pump is likely the original. Looking at a high flow aluminum “Proform Parts 67265” from summit. Would you be inclined to go for this one, or an AC Delco, or even leave the old one in there? The coolant was getting out and it looked like overheating, but I found the overflow hose was blocked and it hasn’t leaked since. Don’t fix what ain’t broke, or preventative maintenance?

Update: 12 miles per gallon this morning on a 23 mile drive on hilly roads! Very pleased with myself, thanks for all the help guys. Also, the drive was out to a new mechanic, who had a corvette, 'stang, and loads of classic euro cars like Alfa Romeos and of course lots of beemers. He's going to line the radiator and replace the water pump for me, and do the suspension stuff. Making real progress.

Aha, I did clean out the fuel in the float bowl, hope that’s it, thanks

James If I knew what this meant I definitely would have done it! I took the air horn off and replaced the float and needle, and set up the float height as best I could to around 3 / 16ths. Maybe more like 7 / 32nds. new gasket, cleaned the air horn with carb cleaner, reassembled and now I'm not getting any fuel in the bowl. It's kind of bubbling on the outside. see video. can anyone chime in on what I might have done wrong here?

Genius.

Hi James, thanks for that. Drain the coolant to replace these yeah? I was afraid to take apart the carb but I have a gasket kit and a float so I might give it a go

I like it! I record every gas station visit with mileage, volume, and cost. It’s how I check how much fuel is left, until I replace the fuel sender and get my gas gauge working. black smoke is only on starting the engine cold, so the choke is fully engaged obviously. I actually wear a mask until I get it out of the garage! Once warm there is no smoke and she sounds great. It will stay on fast idle until I blip the throttle, is that normal? So I re-adjusted the idle mix, the idle revs, then dropped the advance back to 11°. Total got up to 30 at just under 4000 revs, happy with that. I’m guessing the mystery 3-way connector in my last post was a vacuum leak. Drives lovely, but need to get her to a pump when I have time to check mpg again. Snowball alert: is this coolant coming out of this hose? My new moroso rad cap is great (cheers Scott!) but now the pressure releases elsewhere! Should this not just come out the overflow? I did have the engine running for half an hour without driving…

I'm not sure my wife would approve 😂

I set it again to where it starts to hit 20 hgi and it’s 1.25 turns now. So it’s on the lean side of peak vacuum. I used the port in the passenger side, that hooks up to the air cleaner, is that correct? (It’s covered with tape here) Also the solenoid on the far left of the photo, should it have a vacuum connection? The old tube had a 3 way connector that was wrapped up badly in electrical tape. Was that supposed to connect to something, or did the last owner bodge something together because he didn’t have enough vacuum tubes to hand? 😂

Yeah original quadrajet on it. 1500 high idle comes from my engine bay decal (auto hydra-matic ). Is there a reason not to follow that? See photo. The decal also calls for 8° initial at 600 rpm, but I believe that modern fuel needs more advance. It is using manifold vacuum. I set total first at 36ish and that left me with 20 initial. Maybe I should dial it back a bit.

Hey Scott. I don’t know how to tell if the trans is in good shape but it seems to behave well. I haven’t changed the oil myself but the previous owner said he did. There is a small leak of red fluid, possibly the O ring for the trans dipstick? It’s the Original TH350 with 2.73 ratio. There is no tach to tell rpm when driving. would a quart of dexron trans fluid with 4 quarts oil change help to flush the carbon deposits?

Hi Tom. I have them 3.5 turns out, until I got max vacuum of 22

I know a Monte is not a Prius but 5 miles per gallon fuel economy seems excessively poor! Bone stock with AC. I can’t see any fuel leaking out, but I only drive it occasionally so it could be sitting for a week or so. Still getting lots of black smoke on cold start, but I have a lot of the basics sorted: 22 vacuum at idle 30 dwell 37 total timing at 4200 rpm / 20 initial 750 rpm in drive 1500 fast idle new wix fuel filter in carb choke seems to be operating normal clean spark plugs Where should I start guys?

Joe, glad I asked, I though the 'double lip' on the top photos was the least likely setup, nice one. James, the best thing I did yet was install the radiator drain plugs under the rear glass, I can't believe how it was just designed to hold water like that! thanks for the tips!

The metro trunk weatherstrip has a complicated profile, so It's not clear what parts go under / over, can someone tell me which of these 3 options looks like the correct fit? 1 2 3

I’ll check out US Amazon. 👍🏻

Brilliant, thanks all. Do you fancy sharing part numbers if it’s handy? Dennis leave that parts book in the attic 😂

Hi Scott, I’m guessing a lot of the parts are 50 yo so I want to replace anything worn out. My list so far is: shocks & springs, bushings (upper/lower control arms and anti-sway bar), ball joints, tie rod ends, travel stop bumpers and the idler arm. I guess I’m hoping to get them in a kit, instead of looking for them one by one. I don’t know anything about the parts or the brands so yeah I’m over thinking it. Interested to hear what you guys bought

Yeah rock’s website is great. Not pretty, but great! I think you nailed it Dennis, there’s cheap modern tat, then there’s way overpriced brand name but quality stuff. The middle ground is what I’m after and it’s hard to find sometimes. it’s like power tools. I do some woodwork. Festool are beautiful tools but silly expensive, but with the generic stuff you might as well burn your money. Bosch are good solid tools, the pro line still made in Germany.

So what brand would you recommend? Moog seem to do rubber ones. Bang for buck not premium bottomless wallet stuff!

Interesting Bruce. Another case of new not always better than old eh?

Hi guys, need your advice. I’m on a budget, but I want to replace the shocks with bilstein and the springs with moog. I need to know what bushings, ball joints, rubber, polyurethane etc I need to buy. as you probably know by now I’m in Ireland so I have to get everything in one clean order to save on shipping and time. Can’t get equivalent parts here except one source in Germany for poly: https://www.mufflershop.de/Shop/index.php?cPath=49_55_99_971&<osCsid>