Whons

Yes I do have lock up and it is wired up correctly. Still away from home. I will figure out my differential gear ratio when I get home by Sunday and let you guys on the forum know. Thanks Wayne

I get 12 mpg city and 18 mpg hwy. At 65 mph tachometer is at 2000 rpm. When I get home and figure out my rear differencle maybe someone can help me figure out a stall converter. Wayne

Edelbrock carburetor 750 cfm. Yes I had a good mechanic adjust the springs and other things in the valve body. He said he got it as streetable as possible.

My car has a 700r4 transmission. When the engine is at operating temperature from park or neutral it drops into gear hard. Then it shifts from 1st to 2nd at 15 - 20 mph, and it chirps the tires, it has that much power. It has 12 bolt posi. I'm still on vacation. So when I get back home I'll let you know what I think the gear ratio in the differential is. Just knowing this, does it seem like l need a higher stall torque converter. That Lemmon Squad didn't road test it. I wish I had a stock camshaft. I'll give you guys my rear gear ratio when I get home. Thanks again for any information. Wayne

Thanks for all of your input. Do you think a 2500 stall convertor is enough. where would you recommend getting one. I don't really know the definition of the stall speed. I'll have to wait till spring to get one. I have put $2000 worth of parts in it this year just to get it running good. I will be on vacation this week, so I won't be able to reply until Saturday. Thanks again Wayne.

would having the stock convertor make it drop into gear hard?

Ok here are my cam specs: Edelbrock #7102. Lift at cam Intake .325" Exhaust .340" Lift at valve Intake .488" Exhaust .510" Timing at .050 Lift Intake 10^BTDC Close 44^ABDC Exhaust Open 59^ BBDC Close 5^ ATDC. I am not used to what all this means.

Yes the camshaft was robbing too much vacuum for the power brake booster. When I got it the power brake booster and the master cylinder were shot, along with booth rear wheel cylinders. Front calipers were good. Replaced all bad components. Bled the brakes. Then I put in the best rotary vane vacuum pump, machined my own mounting plate. It's wired to the ignition. so that is what runs my brakes. It brakes great just like it would with a stock cam. As for the torque convertor I have no idea what it is or what it should have. As for the chrome trim, I guess the guy before me must have wanted a sleeper look. It even had rear fender skirts which I took off and sold. All the studs for the chrome are gone as are the openings for side marker lights. Those are the only place a plate was welded in, otherwise no rust or bondo anywhere. For the idle I just advanced the timing just a little and leaned out the idle mixture screws. I didn't want to increase the idle speed more. Now it will stay idling in gear. If anyone can tell me how to determine what torque convertor to use that would be great. I have access to a friends lift when ever I want. Thanks Wayne.

I have the cam specs. I don't know what the torque converter it has. I bought this car from Iowa. Hired the Lemon Squad to inspect it and they never road tested it, but lied on the report. I'm lucky the car never had any rust the paint is excellent and the engine was rebuilt. Transmission is good. I just had to deal with no brakes.

Hi, I have a 1970 Monte Carlo with a rebuilt 350 bored .030 over with a more radical camshaft. It also has a 700R4 Transmission. It runs great and idles ok when it's not in gear, but when put in gear the idle speed drops and sometimes will stall. Is there anything I can do besides increasing the idle speed. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the input. I get a little frustrated when I am trying to figure things out. Yes the system is converted over to R134. Eventually I will take it to an AC place. Maybe it is working properly, because the car never gets too warm.

Thankyou for getting back.

I posted a issue last friday about air conditioning. Over 100 people viewed my post and no one replied. Iwas hoping this would be good for answering Questions. I guess not.

On my 1970 Monte Carlo the air conditioning blows very cold, but every so often it cuts out for a short time then comes back on (not even long enough to let the inside of the car warm up) The refrigerant is full. I replaced the clutch cycling switch in the low line and made sure it was getting 12V. The camshaft won't allow the engine to idle when when the air is on, so I installed a dash pot to raise the idle speed when the ac is on and that works good. I wired it into the + lead going to the compressor. When the ac cuts out that dash pot also has no power which means the power to the compressor cuts out. These intervals are very short. Does anybody know if the ac system has a thermostat to cycle on and off? Thanks

Hi I am New to this site. I bought a 1970 Monte Carlo back in Dec. I live in Rochester NY and bought the car from Iowa. Cosmetically the whole car is in mint condition, No rust ever. Rebuilt 350 bored .030 over, 12 bolt posi. 700R4 Transmission. Hired the Lemon Squad to inspect it. The report came back all excellent. The Inspector falsified the report, said he road tested it. HE DID NOT. As soon as it came off the trailer, NO BRAKES. Had to replace power brake booster and master cylinder, and every thing on the rear. Had to install a rotory Vane Vacuum Pump, because of a radical camshaft. and get the Transmission adjusted $750. I called the Lemon Squad to complain and all they did was refund the inspection fee No Parts. Then they wiped out the inspection report from my computer and blocked me from even logging into their website. I was lucky and blessed that otherwise the car was in mint condition. Hope this saves someone. I will never buy another car unless I can look at it myself.