Lawrence71

Hi folks, Just took the Monte out for a ride after doing a variety of work (mainly ignition system but also an oil change); had been doing slow speed in town today with no issues, but tonight was showing the car off to some friends so got it up to 55ish with high rpm’s (aka punching it) and noticed the engine was running very high and was hard to slow down. It seemed like it wasn’t backing down on the gears after I got up to third. Even when I slowed down it revved high and taking my foot off the brake it would drive as if I’d had the throttle held. It took a lot of pressure to ensure that the car wouldn’t move forward while trying to slowly park back in the garage. Any ideas on what I should start taking a look at or likely culprits? Thanks, David

Thanks, good advice all around. I appreciate how helpful you all have been, and am sure I will have any number of other questions, so it’s nice to have a forum dedicated exactly to your specific car. Even the chassis manual covers several models and nothing beats being able to ask questions from people with experience. David

This is my first real project car so I’m getting my feet wet at the pace I’m comfortable with. If there’s something in the engine compartment I could tap into I’m all ears, just felt like taking the whole column apart so I could get to the switch wires was a little more than I wanted to if there were alternatives. Don’t mind spending a little money on it. Cheers, David

So I ended up doing some more research and Pertronix has a relay kit that takes the 6V from the old ignition switch wire and the 12V battery in and uses that as a switch to provide 12V when the ignition is on. For the life of me I don’t know why the person I talked to earlier there didn’t suggest that as a solution. So I think I get a best of both worlds here. https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-2001-ignition-power-relay-kit I will report back after I get and install it but definitely sounds like something in the direction I’m looking for, made expressly for this purpose. David

Good question; the wipers work but never tried the washer. (And the resivoir is old and crusty, so assume they pulled the washer pump out along with the AC.) based on the fact that it has extra instrument panel inside, headers instead of exhaust, aftermarket cab and missing AC would assume the guy I got it from was trying to hotrod it and cleared the unnecessary parts out for space, but don’t really have any vehicle history.

Hmm, got 11.3V out of this; wonder if that’s it? Not sure if that’s enough to run something that requires 12V or not.

Do you have pics of the throttle solenoid or where it’d be located? From what I read it was kinda put in place for helping with AC power draws or something similar. AC was taken out of this system so it might be free. Also this has a non-stock edelbrock 4-barrel carb so not sure what may or may not still be in use. I called pertronix and their recommendation was to just replace the wire from the ignition switch, so I think the booster is out (what I assumed would probably be the right choice). Anything else a candidate in the engine compartment? I tested a few random relays in the compartment but nothing registered in run mode. (A lot of this has had the engine painted so might be I could scrape some paint.) Thanks, David

Hi folks, I have a 71 and am trying to convert from a points ignition to an electric ignition. I have a pertronix flamethrower distributor however it appears that it requires 12V input at the coil. I checked voltage on the coil and as expected it is 6V due to the online resistor. Is it possible to use a voltage step up such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L90B3RI/ to get to the 12V or do I have to run a wire through the firewall and replace the ignition switch wire in the column? (Or something else of course.) I’m definitively concerned with something as critical as the ignition system using something like that since if something goes bad with it (and it will get continual use) then it won’t run. However someone had mentioned the idea at the local car shop and not running a new wire through the firewall, dropping the column, etc, has a some real appeal to it. Does anyone have experience with this and/or strong opinions on if this a good or bad idea? Thanks, David