BobW

May 16

On 5/13/2024 at 11:04 AM, cbolt said:

Ill be looking for you to be like Col. Steve Austin and jump over buildings and the like with your new bionic knee.

Seriously, good luck tomorrow

7 minutes ago, willie said:

Good Luck Bob!!! Another friend of mine just had it done. They kept postponing it because he was 56 years old. They wanted him to make the 60s!! He is in the 3rd week after surgery and he walking without any crutches. Hope it goes as smooth for you Rob!!

Thanks for the well wishes guys. Surgery went well, hurts like hell, alreadystarted PT.They tell me the first two weeks are the killers and the secret to recovering quickly

May 13

4 minutes ago, cbolt said:

So my first step would be to remove the radiator and take it someplace that will do a proper flush and check. Doing it yourself, in my experience, only works if the radiator is mostly okay. The next step is the clutch fan.

Because your car cools back off when the A/C is off tells me the overall radiator coolant flow is adequate without the additional strain on the system with the A/C running, which puts a strain on the pulley system and quite possibly the fan speed.

Full disclosure though, I am just giving you a SWAG based on what you have said and don't take what I say as gospel. I had the same thing happen on my Ford after I installed an electric fan with a shroud and cured it mostly by removing the shroud which was impeding air flow at speed with the A/C on only, or so it would seem. That has never made a lot of sense to me, but there you have it.

That's pretty much my thought as well. There's a good shop in Orlando I trust.

It's gonna be a bit 'till I can get to that, total knee replacement tomorrow!

May 12

24 minutes ago, cbolt said:

Something sure isn't right. How had it been before, or has it always run hot like that? I guess my question is what, if anything, has changed?

I will say that here in Florida I really prefer the 160 degree t-stat over the 180. That is not me saying a 160 degree will solve your issue, but once you get it sorted you may want to change to the lower temp t-stat.

It sounds like a coolant flow issue. Once you go back to slow speed or idle does the engine cool back off?

Hi Jim, It's been running ~195* consistantly with both the mechanical and digital gauge., hardly any temp deviation. It was offroad from April to October for paint, etc. For the 3K miles I've driven the car, this is really the first time I've been running the A/C creating this issue. It will cool down while running slower, but very slowly. Turning the A?C off at speed and it cools back to 195 fairly quickly, maybe 2 miles.

May 12

2 hours ago, MC1of80 said:

Warm up the car, like after you take a trip. Lightly hold the fan blade and start the car (an assistant is recommended) if you can easily hold it it is bad. Also see if you can feel it wobbling on the shaft ( with the engine off).

There is no wobble with engine cold.

Probably be a few weeks until I get the chance to get the nickname "Stubby" as I'm having knee replacement on Tuesday.

May 12

@MC1of80

I verified the fan clutch function from a Youtube video, is barely rotates 1/2 turn when I spin it.

I did find this item listed and messaged if it is still available. Would this be a good replacement for my situation, or would aluminum be better?

May 12

1 hour ago, Dtret said:

Did you do an external flush of the radiator and condenser, meaning cleaning the garage out of the fins? Is the fan clutch operating properly? Is the fan placed in the shroud properly? Just a few easy things to check.

Yes fins were flushed. Fan is in the shroud, I 'assume' it is operating properly as it is always spinning and increases spped with engine. How would I check it's operation? Aside from when the A/C is on, the temp runs steady at all speeds with only a couple of degrees increase in longer stop & go traffic.

58 minutes ago, jft69z said:

Where is the temperature sensor located, near the water neck or cylinder head?

I tend to read 10-15 degrees higher at the cylinder head vs. the water neck area.

If you did an internal radiator flush, I'm guessing you did an external as well (blasted water or air from the back side to blow out all the dirt and bugs from the cooling fins)?

Temp sensor is by the water neck, thermostat does have a bypass vent.

Even though I've done a fairly good flush, the fact that there is still corrosion visible leads me to believe there is still blockage in the tubes.

May 12

I run a 180 thermostat and both the mechanical temp gauge and Dakota digital gauge register 195 for normal funning. Turned the A/C on for the first real run and it's registering close to 220 before I shut the A/C off.

Regarding the radiator in my 72 base 350, looking in the tank it shows 2 open rows closest to the fan and what could be a 3rd row with closed end. Is this a standard 2 row radiator?

I had a fair amound of corrosion showing on the open ends and did a chemical flush for about 3 hours of run time, followed by a tap water hose flush and distilled water flush for 1 hour run time. Refilled with antifreeze.

Running without the A/C still registers 195. Tried the A/C and it was running about 205 up to 50mph, got on the 4 lane running at 65mph and the temp quickly rose to the 220 mark.

The A/C was converted to 134a by the previous owner and the system is full, 15 lbs.

I'm thinking this radiator is just not functioning properly.

May 12

First, is this still available?

Second, the radiator in my '72 base 350 shows what appears to be three rows when looking into the tank, but only the two rows closest to the fanare open, while what could be the 3rd row is closed on the ends. Does your 3 row show all three rows open?

Thanks.

March 7

Is this the correct propotioning valve for my '72 disc/drum, small block? It looks like it will mount the valve on top of the frame to clear the headers.

https://chevelle.com/1970-72-distribution-valve-w-bracket-pv07/?sku=DV7007&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA6KWvBhAREiwAFPZM7qoGq0HwtjFtwSbNN8uP7Us1lqQuPO0uXXQuOTFT-l7h6xRAJgqqWhoCWqoQAvD_BwE

February 28

While I am happy with the kick panel speakers, I hoped I could do a bit better. Talked with a friend that does hi-power stereos. He'saware of my hearing difficulties and understands that pure volume is not the answer for me. He suggested I try some tweeters in the dash position, and he was right on! A pair of Alpine tweeters fit with no intereference and deliver the sound quality I wanted.

February 26

Finally got some pics showing the new thermostat housing and DD temp sender, plenty of clearance now.

February 26

43 minutes ago, DragCat said:

The PO installed these, I believe from OPGI. Aftermarket stereo, amp in trunk, with fade and balance they sound good. Maybe my parking brake pedal is out of adjustment but that's my issue, the pedal with the pad won't clear the speaker

On my install I was able to slightly trim the rubber on the pedal pad to clear the speaker.

February 26

8 hours ago, jft69z said:

As I also said on your FB post, when I asked about kick panel speakers a few years ago, someone here responded that they're great...if your ankles have ears. I didn't go that route.

I've had 4x6 Kickers in the front with 6x9's in the back. With my hearing loss (and exhaust) I was constantly adjusting the volume as cruising speed changes. I bought a pair of the speaker kick panels from Classic Car Stereos (https://www.classiccarstereos.com/1964-1967-chevelle-speaker-kick-panels-with-ac-65-pair-no-speakers.html?rrec=true) and installed them at the same time I installed a Dakota Digital dash. Needless to say, the 4x6 just barely fit with the DD dash, but, the magnet interefers with the volt meter (it pegged the needle).

Finished the install with the new kick panel speakers and no dash speakers. Took 40 mile ride today, and barely changed the stereo volume fromin town to highway. I'm very pleased with the new setup. I'm going to see about getting some small tweeters to put under the dash, hoping the magnet will be far enough away to not effect the volt meter, and give me some more clarity.

February 23

On 2/20/2024 at 12:49 PM, kpcsgasp said:

Where did you mount the computer? I found that on top of the glove box is a good location

Yep, that was the most convenient spot. I ran a 10-24 machine screw up through the glove box top to hold it in place, though I don't think the wires will let it move much!

I did end up needing a new gauge carrier, the old one had one crack that I noticed when I did led bulbs. It was so brittle the screw holes crumbled as I removed them! Fortunately NPD in Ocala has them in stock, 3 hour round trip and I was home with the new part.

Spent a lot of time reading the manual, verifying and re-verifying the wiring, along with cleaning up some previously installed wiring form an older radio. Only had to make one call to Daytona Digital to figure out how to get the readings I wanted to show in the tach LCD display. Everything else programmed and works as it should!

I'll get a pic of the new thermostat housing that shows the clearance of the temp sensor at tomorrow's car show.

February 19

Senders installed and wiring run through the dash. Biggest problem today was getting the speedo cable disconnected. Yes I pushed the spring clip to release it and then pushed the cable in and tried to pull it out. It just wouldn'tcome free! Finally grabbed it with a pair of pliers and levered it free!

Gauge panel is now out and ready for the change to the DD gauges. Still have to route the new sender wires inside the dash and clean up some other loose wires in the dash.

February 18

Yesterday's start of installation went fairly well.

Began by removing the 3 mechanical under dash accessory gauges to install the DD sending units and cables. Speedo and oil pressure senders installed easily. Temp sender not so much! The Jegs 4 bbl manifold has the sender directly under the hose, and the height of the sender doesn't clear the hose. Tried installing the sender in the side of the block but again, the height of the sender was within 1/4" of the header!

Solution: Found a 45* swivel thermostat housing on Summit, I'll get a pic when it's installed. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-371100

Today's plan is the get the old gauge panel out and get the wiring run to where I plan to mount the box on top of the glove compartment.

February 17

Car shows & Daytona rained out for the weekend, gonna install the Dakota Digital gauges.

February 15

Question for those who have installed the Dakota Digital gauge package.

I'm reading (& re-reading) the install for Dakota Digital dash and have a question re the fuel gauge.

DD says to run a ground wire as well as a signal wire from the sender & mount bolts. The sender is grounded to the body.

Have any of you run a new direct ground or wire pair to the DD panel?

Or did the gauge work using the current dash wire and a chassis/body ground?

January 27

I'm on well water that has some iron content. Softener system and filtration significantly reduces it but doesen't eliminate it. Distilled water always.

January 13

21 hours ago, Scott S. said:

Hey Bob,

When I replaced my steering box I just left the unit loose from the frame and there was enough play to get the rag joint in without pulling the steering column.

Mind you, it was a factory type box from a late model Grand Cherokee, but the dimensions should be the same.

Hope that helps, Scott.

Thanks, that's what I was hoping!

January 12

I just picked up a new CPP 50004 box (for $100!) and ordered a new rag joint.

Do I need to loosen and pull back the steering column for additional room to install the new rag joint when the new box is bolted in?

November 28, 2023

22 hours ago, Mike said:

I went with a dual diaphragm 10". Gives more surface area, so more stopping power. Also gives clearance for any engines with roller rockers.

Where did you find a 10" dual diaphragm booster?

November 14, 2023

I just went this route, my car was in similar condition!

Full right quarter, full roof, rear deck filler panel, right wheel house, right trunk drop down, full left quarter just to get the sail panel.

$2,300 in parts, $4,000 for install.....

No more rust!

October 11, 2023

26 minutes ago, cbolt said:

Looks great Bob! We need to meet up somewhere for a cruise in or something. Hey, are you planning on attending the Turkey Run this year?

I am sure there are car shows and cruise ins and whatnot in the Deland/Deltona areas which is roughly halfway between us and a not so bad drive.

Thanks Jim!

Not planning on Daytona, but there are some regular shows on Deland. I'll keep an eye on what's listed and get in touch!

I've got to make the time do do a build thread .....

October 10, 2023

16 hours ago, cny first gen 71 said:

Looking at it how hard would be to make something similar?

16 hours ago, BobW said:

Looking at the one I got from cbolt, I'm pretty sure I can make a brace for that side.

Cleaned up what I have and painted them. Figured out what I need for bolts and visited my local Ace store. I should get it mounted tomorrow.

Much thanks to Jim (cbolt) for offering the parts!

First step was finding a piece of tubing to use. Never throw anything potentially reusable away! This was a mount from a solar panel, had just the right bend!