Steve G
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Posts posted by Steve G
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8 minutes ago, cbolt said:
That would be a fun one to pull out and fix up just to hear everyone complain about the opera windows. Totally worth the time and effort, at least in my opinion.
Also, I would love to know what is sitting beside it, some kind of mopar. Can anyone ID that car just from that tail light? Coronet perhaps?
The car next to it is a 2 door 68 sport satellite.
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Air leaks in a near 50 year old car when doing 130mph.....haha.. and frustrated enough about it to invest time in solving the issue.... i love it
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I work in a non-structural body shop and is considered essential.... really? haha....My commute went from 4 hours round trip a day to less than 2 hours. Some parts are hard to get due to lack of delivery, very few customers. I work in San Francisco so its strange to see a ghost town when just a month ago the streets were infested with people, bicyclists, cars, buses etc etc.
I never had to buy extra toilet paper thank god because there aint none. I did get extra eggs and cat food. my cat likes scrambled and I like meow mix.
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its all just words to help make a sale or make others jealous.... My Monte has been in the family since new... sounds cool but i have no idea how to justify asking more for it because its been in the family since new... unless im selling it within the family only. But that is almost kinda creepy.
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On 1/23/2020 at 7:26 PM, Jared Richey said:
I've seen some nice paint jobs that they left the lead in place and it will make the paint bubble in a few years. The problem with Lead it is you can have corrosion underneath it that you will never see.
Take the extra time to get rid of all the lead and make sure there is no corrosion hiding underneath. Most of the vinyl top cars didn't have solid lead seems, little in each corner.. they had some seam sealer most of the seam and that's even worse to think of leaving it in.
yep... many new fillers and primers will react with lead over time.
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The street rod shop i worked at 2016-2018 had piles of EBAY tubular control arms that customers had installed and brought to us to align and correct other issues... Almost every time they went back to stock or went with a legit brand.
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i have had a bunch of engines without hardened seats and never had one issue... i was pushed by a machine shop to have hardened exhaust seats installed in a set of heads once and one seat came loose.... disaster.. never again
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like-90 dry film pn# 10012 , the stuff is an amber clear color, cant paint over it, not for looks, use only after bodywork and paint is done on your car as it will contaminate primers and substrates. But is will stop corrosion 100% dead in its tracks, will not peel or flake off like paint or so called rust converters. I use 6-8 cans on a restoration after all the paintwork is completed.
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if only cars could talk.
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its for hiding dope.... push the bag up in there and have a broken wire attached to it so it can be pulled out.... Gotta love the high school days
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37 minutes ago, overdrive said:
Date of mfg of the Metro seals may be the difference. The newer ones may be the good ones.
Dan
this may be the issue...
only the ends are specific to the companies... the universal "roll of weatherstrip" part comes from only a few companies. if they screw up then all the companies (soffseal, OER, metro etc) get the same screwed up product.
I have totally given up on soffseal products and tracking down NOS weatherstrip is getting difficult.
I was able to buy the trunk seal from GM up till a few years ago. They still had some in stock. I couldnt believe it. Wish i bought them all
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Hello,
Im looking for a company that produces a trunk seal that actually fits without requiring me to jump on the lid to make it close. Not sure what has happened in the past few years but the chevelle and monte carlo trunk seals have grown 3x the thickness they are supposed to be..
Im only looking for trunk seals that close with ease on the first try
Thanks
Steve
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Im curious, have you experienced driving a vehicle with a Fitech system? If not you may want to find a car with one and give it a run. Internet advertisements and forum chat aside, In the real world it seems the Fitech systems really fall short of even sedated performance. At least thats what i have experienced.
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Thanks a bunch, you guys are great!... any thoughts on a single plane or dual plane EFI manifold (60 lbs+ injectors)? I am going to dive into the different software packages with the EFI controllers and examine the VE tables and make sure I can get fine resolution, hopefully 256 RPM increments from 500 to 2500 RPMs and 0.5 lb. resolution for the vacuum rows of the VE table , that would be 8x 25 effective rows of VE tuning capability to tame the idle and low end drivability... which may make a single plane meet my needs.... maybe....
Once again I appreciate all the feedback... Paul, now I'm thinking of a PWM controller on the dual electric fans too...
john
Holy smokes that seems like a lot of self abuse
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Really young,
Attached is a pic of me when i was about 11 or 12 and my first time racing my Oldsmobile R/C Nascar.
This was the first time i was racing in an actual race series where people toured all over the west coast. This was at a track in Bakersfield California.
When my car went through tech it failed because My car was setup to run Alcohol and had a header but the class I entered for the season was sportsman series and it was gas only with a muffler.
I was kinda bummed out but the guys that raced were all retired, most in their 60s and toured the country in big 5th wheel trailers and they took their hobby very serious.
The racers were confident that there was no way i could be competitive since it was my first time racing and i was 50 years younger than the other experienced racers they asked tech to let it slide. Tech was ok with it as long as all the racers (20 racers or so) agreed.
Tech had one stipulation that i cant block racers if they choose to pass me.
So during the race (100 laps) i had to fuel up early since my car was alcohol ... it caused confusion and everyone else pitted with me. A few laps after that i was already 6 laps down and in last place but was having fun, a nasty crash happened and took out about half the cars. Each race ran 10 cars at a time till the finals so now i was guaranteed at least 5th place. A few more crashes and some freak car problems left the track with only me and the national champion from the previous year. Since there was no chance of me recovering all the laps i lost the track officials told us 6 more laps and they will call the race. Well a few laps later the leading car snapped the driveshaft and left me all alone on the track. It was crazy hearing all the people cheering in disbelief. "do 6 laps and you win" i hear over the speakers.
I won 1st place on my first race.
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i suggest the Ricks Tanks with an internal pump, installed quite a few of them and had no issues at all.
The only safety cutoff i believe in is the low fuel pressure for obvious reasons. The inertia/impact switches become redundant if running a low pressure cutoff.
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hmmm..... you sure its not those rockers?
I ran a set of comp cam roller tip rockers on a 350 that looked identical to those... they always had a "click" sound to them as if the roller was tapping against its shaft.. like there was slack.
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the company that re-manufactured the A/C unit should give specs on how to add additional oil to the compressor if any. The r-134 conversion kit should give specs on the new amount of refrigerant used... some retrofit kits use far less 134 than the standard r12.
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i think the quality of all the companies are really hit and miss. I have never found an aftermarket seal company where i was totally satisfied. I usually pick and choose what im going to use from each company.
SteeleRubber is the worst in my opinion. I bought a $2000 kit from them for a lincoln and only about 40% of it was usable
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Well, I'm at a crossroads right now on which way to go as motor in my Monte. I've been planning on a 6.0 LS motor swap and now I am thinking either increase size(stroke) of my SBC or take on a Big Block (427) for it. I have most of the stuff for a big block, I could even go out to 496 with it. I know that my car is not numbers matching and won't ever get rid of it. Just need a little more excitement. I do need to change out the gearing in it (3.42 now to 3.73) for the overdrive trans. It's been 12yrs . Decisions, Decisions.....................Thoughts?
EH, another LS swap. Nothing like building up a 500hp engine to make it feel like a 300hp car.
Spend a tad more money and build up a nice small block or big block.
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Top picture is a picture of the parts brand new and the lower one is the one on my 1971 454.
The battleship part is metal and the flex tube resembles cardboard on the outside that is corrugated but is like a tin foil on the inside.
hope that helps
Darren
Thanks Darren , the top pic is identical to the one i need... i need the square-to-round part that slides to the bottom silver tin. If you know where to get this item please let me know.. or if you have one i got PayPal. Or i will gladly take the one off your 454.. if you cant get it off you can send me the entire engine with it.. thats a work of art!
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its the base i cant figure out.. and is the pipe a steel tube or flex tubing?
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the 402 i picked up is a 71 and totally original but the pipe that connects from the air cleaner to the exhaust shield is missing... i cant find a good pic on the net to figure out what i need. the exhaust shield has a rectangular opening for the pipe... yeah i need the thing that goes in the rectangular hole... thanks.
Oh boy.....SHE IS HOME!!!
in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum
Posted
Prototype? How so?