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overdrive

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Posts posted by overdrive

  1. Thanks. What does the special provision for oil cooling consist of? I only took these 2 photos while I had the engine apart. 

    The original owner that built this engine was a racer. He regularly raced a V8 Vega, but I know he raced my car at least once. A time slip was found in the console glove box. 

    Dan

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  2. On 12/11/2023 at 1:44 PM, backintime said:

    Hi Dan,

    Just read your post. I own a 1971 Monte Carlo 402 factory 4 speed .Primary color is original sandalwood with vinyl top. All numbers matching and yes I am aware that it is 1 of 80 produced .This car was ordered with A/C delete and is in as close to pristine as it can get. Car has been completely restored and runs very well. Last six of vin is 188715. I

    absolutely love this car as I have owned a 1970 and two 1972s in the past. This is the first 4 speed that I have ever seen other than the one that sold at Mecum last year for 90k

     

    Welcome, and thanks for the information. I hope that once you get a little more familiar with the site that you'll start a thread telling us more about your car and post the photos. Sounds like an excellent car. I had a '71  w/350 auto. that was Sandalwood with a brown vinyl top, black interior. What color is your top?

    What assembly plant built your car? 

    Dan

    • Like 3
  3. 2 hours ago, Chevy Dave said:

    Does a 4 bolt LS5 block have a different casting number than the 2 bolt blocks?

    No. Mine is 3963512, CPD, cast in late '69, installed in an early '71 model at the Leed's plant in KC. Not original to my car. The original owner lived in KC and was a drag racer. He's the one that put this engine in my car. 

    Dan

     

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    • Like 1
  4. On 11/22/2023 at 7:01 AM, Paul D Valle said:

    If it's a 4 bolt main block dated late 69 then it is a valuable 1970 LS6 BLOCK.

    Chris White, who restores '70 LS6 cars may want to purchase it.

    Good Luck

    My 454 block is code CPD, which is a '71 LS5. It's also a 4 bolt main block and it has a forged steel crankshaft. Some LS5s are 4 bolt. 

    Dan

    • Like 2
  5. I have a number of spare Quadrajets from various years. One of the '72s with the slotted arm like yours has had the arm twisted so the top of the arm is closer to the carb than the bottom is. I suspect that was done because someone had the same problem you have. The top of the linkage slipped into the slot and jammed. I can see how twisting the arm a little could stop that from happening. 

    Dan

    • Like 3
  6. Ron, I believe your linkage is installed backwards, or it's the wrong one. Also, the hairpin style clip you have is incorrect. Changing it to a new one won't cure the problem. These photos are of my '71 carb. The '72 and later carbs used a slot for the linkage to attach to. The hairpin clip and a slot won't work well together. The hairpin clips are for round holes. The earlier carbs have just a round hole  and the larger style clip that I don't know the name of, but a hairpin is ok with them.

    I think your linkage is going to hang up in that slot, no matter which style clip you use, unless the linkage is turned around. I'm not certain that would even eliminate your issue without seeing how it fits. 

    Dan

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    • Like 1
  7. On 10/6/2023 at 4:50 PM, Dtret said:

    Maybe. Let me check. What the heck is the dude on Facebook meaning that 70 is different?

    The outer brackets for the rear bumper are made from round tubing, or from stamped steel, depending on the model year. 

    The guy on Facebook has stripped and parted out dozens of first gen Montes. 

    Dan

    • Like 2
  8. Thank you for the kind words, past help, orders, and the confidence in my detent plates.  I'm sorry that you're having an issue with installing the detent. As you found, your aftermarket shifter isn't made quite exactly the same as an original. There are at least 3 different aftermarket shifters out there and the only one I know of that has changes that cause a problem with my early detent plates is the one that, if I remember correctly, has the RestoParts name on the box. The rear bolt hole in the shifter base is higher than the one in the original shifter base. This causes the rear of the plate to be too high and the crossbar can't get high enough to pull back to 1st gear. I've been adding a second threaded hole right above the original one to allow the detent plate to be used on that shifter base. If I am understanding your issue correctly, and this is the case, I can ship you another detent plate that already has the extra bolt hole for a RestoParts shifter. An option is for you to enlarge the shifter base bolt hole to let the detent plate mount a little lower in the back, if it just needs to be dropped a little bit. If the amount of lowering needed is very much, I would just drill and tap another hole right above the existing one. 

    I appreciate your continued support and I'm glad you found the "lost" parts. I stress in my instruction sheets to please call me with any questions. I'm serious about making every shifter with one of my products installed on it work just as good as mine does, and I can save a guy time and headaches. With there being at least 4 different 68-72 horseshoe shifter manufacturers, there are bound to be questions, and I'm here to help. 

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    • Like 8
    • Thank You! 2
  9. I haven't had much time to work on this car yet, but I changed the plugs and did a compression test. It runs and idles better, but now it seems the fuel pump is giving up. Suddenly, the motor is fuel starved when accelerating hard. That'll be the next change. 

    The Hurst Competition Plus shifter felt pretty sloppy. The car actually came to me with the original Muncie shifter, plus a spare one that had a part number written on it as if a salvage yard would have done.  I cleaned it up in the degreaser tank yesterday and it's in great shape. Gus changed to the Hurst in '74, so my guess is that he got the spare Muncie shifter from a low miles Chevelle that had been wrecked, but decided not to use it. The mounting bracket and braces were still attached to the Muncie shifter that he took out, and that shifter was worn noticeably more than the spare one was. I was able to remove the Hurst this morning and install the Muncie. It works great, and every piece of original hardware I needed was in the Hurst box. I forgot to take a photo of the shifter after it was cleaned up, but I'll get one with it installed. The rubber shifter boot was hard and it crumbled getting the Hurst shifter out, but a new boot came with the car. I'll be installing it soon. 

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    • Like 7
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