overdrive
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Posts posted by overdrive
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Found this info for an LA built SS454 at chevellestuff.net:
June 4, 2009
Gentleman has LS5 build sheet for 1970 Monte Carlo looking for owner, VIN 138570L133719.
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No, I have no talent other than cheap humor
/quote]You have much more talent than you realize. It just needs to be brought out with a little training. And that's no joke.
Dan
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Great job, Mike!
It looks like the other tire was barely touching. "Originally Posted By: kc8oye
PHOTOSHOP!"
"Originally posted by Arsin:
Jealousy party of 1 your table is ready.
"That's great, Arsin.
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Stainless is great to work with. You can make a pretty beat up part look better than they did when new. (They weren't polished.) I bought a buffer when I restored a Mustang a few years ago, repaired the stainless and polished it all and took the hubcaps apart and polished them. I showed my son how to do the polishing when we restored the 71 Monte for him. A few guys in the local car club found out we could repair stainless and I took on a few jobs for them. I agree, it definitely takes alot of time, but I have a hard time charging a fair price. I always think I should give them a big break and I end up working for too little. I'd rather just work on my own stuff, but I haven't been able to tell them "no". Anybody else have this problem?
Thanks for the links!
Dan
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Hi Kevin. I wasn't posting to dispute you, in fact I didn't realize you had said anything about color. I hadn't read carefully. I was just looking for pics of the car and found this one.
Dan
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Here's another
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Here's a previous post about this. Click here
My new Delco shocks are black and they are not built the same as the originals. They have a metal sleeve that comes down over the rubber air bags and the originals didn't.
Dan
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I may try to open mine up from the back side and replace the rusted metal inside. Since I haven't looked at them for awhile, I'm not sure how well it will work, but I have nothing to lose. They're not useable now.
Dan
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1. Ask him where the air compressor is.
2. See if he knows where they mounted.
3. Does it even have a 12 bolt rear?
4. Check the fan shroud to see if it's for a small block or a big block.
5. Does it have a TH400 or TH350?
6. Maybe he'll let you check out the VIN
7. You could tell him to check out this site and post some pics of his very rare car. Maybe he would want to try to sell it here. I'm sure someone would educate him.
Dan
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Upgrades and routine maintenance always pay off well. Enjoy it. It looks great.
We've had so much rain this spring that I can't even park a car in the grass. A floor jack would just bury itself. It's raining again this morning and the front yard has had water standing in it about 70% of the time since Feb. We're ready for a dry spell.
Dan
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A 70 doesn't have that.
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It's looking great! You're in for a good time.
Dan
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Here's one, but I haven't used them.
Konik's Klassics sells them and also installs, so they should know about a good one.
Dan
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Did you finish the paint, Jared?
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I took a picture of a 71 SS rear panel today. The car was repainted once but they used the original color and didn't repaint that area. There's a tape line at the edge of the trunk opening. They only repainted the outer body surfaces. The trunk opening area was left as original.
Dan
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Allan, this is in my second post, 2 before your first one:
Quote:When I shifted into third at 5k the other day, the speedo showed 100. grinDan
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Nice work!
Dan
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It's not likely I'll run the Monte over 100. I know how loose these cars can get at high speeds, but I think with the gears and HP it's capable of running at least 135, but not with me in it.
The speedometer only goes to 120. Someone would have to have an aftermarket speedo or a GPS to check the top end.When I shifted into third at 5k the other day, the speedo showed 100.
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I tried this out Fri night on an empty, closed highway.
I was wondering how fast my 70 SS would go in second gear with the original 2.56 rear gears. I had guessed about 85 or 90 at 5000 rpm. Tires are 255/60/15s. I ran it up to 5k and then shifted and shut it down. I wonder what the top end would be? Does anyone here know for sure?
Seriously, I'm not going to try that. The Holley carbed motor is bored .030 and has an unknown performance cam with headers. I don't know much more as it was in the car when I bought it 2 yrs ago.
Dan
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I'm praying along with the rest, Robyn and Mitzi. I hope you're on your way to a speedy recovery. May God bless both of you.
Dan
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The spline sealant is more good advice. You can mark the nut and case to get the nut tightened back to the same torque value, if you don't replace the crush sleeve.
Dan.
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Sam, you can get the white tape at an electrical supply store or I can send you some. We use it to mark the neutral wire in 240v or less systems. They should have a couple of different widths available, 3/4 or 1/2.
Dan.
restoring/repairing steering wheel
in Restorers - Archive
Posted
I've restored a few and guys have been using JB Weld or Marine Tex for years, and now some companies are putting together repair kits so they can profit. The pc7 is probably a good product but I've never used it. Either of the epoxies I listed work great. Clean and degrease the wheel and use Nytril gloves while working to help keep it clean. You just need to open up the cracks with a file (or cutting wheel if the crack is in a flat area) and end up with a vee shaped groove. Drill small, shallow holes into the sides of the groove so the epoxy gets a good "grip". Sand and reapply and sand until you get the shape you need. Use masking tape to form a mold, if needed, to hold the epoxy in place until it sets up.
Clean and degrease the wheel, sand with 400, clean, degrease and tack rag, prime it, sand with 600, clean, degrease and tack rag, and paint with a good automotive base coat/clear coat or other durable paint.
Dan