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Vaihlor

(Non-dues paying)
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About Vaihlor

  • Birthday 02/28/1984

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lorraine, France
  • Interests
    Movies, diffrents types of music (Rock, Industrial, Heavy Metal, Jazz, Pop), Mangas, Video games, History, Aeronautics.
  • Legal Name
    Zahner Julien
  • Occupation
    employee

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  • Junior Member
  1. you mean the valve that activate the warning light ? it stays in center after the bleeding
  2. Mineral oils are always better for these old tech engines, even for crate ones i guess
  3. yeah the 2nd gen have a totally different frame, so the rear has to be different to..
  4. I've personally experienced some issues with a brand new torque converter for my th350, Boss hogg brand it was, After only 1000 miles, it make an horrible scratching noise (but still working), after open up it seems to get some free play and some metal parts broke off inside and damaged the turbine... So this kind of problem could be not so rare with new parts...
  5. No my car was built in baltimore plant, was export in 2000's The last p.valve i've bought is for disc/drum setup. And that's after complete bleeding (no air bubbles in bleed tube), i've poor pedal, no great difference between before and after, i can't "feel" the brake pressure coming during the bleeding, usualy, when you do it, and works well, the pedal gets a lot firmer after the rear brake're bleed. in this case not...
  6. yes i did it, the one inclued in the kit seems to not work well.
  7. My 72 monte used to have power front drum brake (strange for a 72 by the way...). After an accident that damaged right front section, i've decided to convert to disc brakes. So i've brought a complete kit from MBM, no kind of problem to install it, but after multiple bleeding, i can't manage to get good brake pressure and good pedal always feel poor. Except if pump it but the pressure seems to fade away easily. -All brake lines are new -Rear brakes have been rebuild (wheel cylinder replaced), and correctly set -New master have been bench bleed, and tested with plugs (pedal get firm fast and the pressure can be maintained) -No leaks in the system -Combination valve have been replaced from the kit and seems to work well I don't really see where is the problem.... The only thing that can be in cause for me is the master cylinder bore size 1" from the kit, insufficient volume displacement for the car brake system, and i need an d 1"1/8 one thanks by advance for the advices and sorry for incorrect English meanings (i'm a french owner...)
  8. That's summit tech replies to me, it seems to be that, but i can't see what can i do for that ....
  9. Hi everyone, here is the problem with my transmission : I've rebuild it with a kit, totally cleaned up, and It doesn't work correctly at all. At the first start It was working quite good, but running a certain time with no sufficient oil, without any speed engaged (I was running my just rebuilt small block), at the second try, no speed works, except the first but wheels turned reverse ! After that I've disassembled twice the trans, changed the front pump, the trans, cleaned again, and It's always the same, no speed unless the 1st, reversed. I really don't understand what's the matter, insufficient pressure ? Dead converter ? (It's the old one) Please help me, Can't see the key of problem... Thank you by advance, and for reading my novel. Sincerely Julien
  10. Thanks for your replies, bt finally I found by myself at summit !
  11. My monty have a 10 bolts axle, and I want to know what Bearing / seals I have to take for it. Someone can give me the reference on Summit for it ? Thanks !
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