snomobeelr

Ok so I am getting 3 inch Shock Extensions. Without the Shock extension from the top/Frame mount to the Pin/Shaft on the Differential it is 23 1/4 inches. So should I just get the longest shock I could Find? Below is what I have found. And the Extensions I ordered are 3 inches. Will that be enough? ............................................................................. Competition Engineering 2720 Rear Drag Shock Extended Length: 22.87'' ............................................................................. Monroe : For Towing & Hauling Rear Sensa-Trac Load Adjusting Shocks 58574 Extended Length 21.250" ............................................................................. Summit Racing® Drag Racing Shocks # SUM-G7702 Extended Length (in) 23.000 in.

So after a few weeks of PST seeing/checking if Bilstien made a shock that will fit they are saying no? Now I am going to have to try and find a shock that is 24 inches from top mount to the bottom mount pin, or do I use "Shock Extenders"? Or there is a hole above the current pin you can see it in the picture above, do I open that up and use that top hole for the mount ?

Anyone have Bilstiens on thier car. If so what is the part number and if you could measure the top of the shock to the mount. Actally if anyone could tell me what brand and part number for the shock they have would be appreciated. Also is your bottom mount under the Dif like in the picture of mine? Thanks

I Was afraid you were going to say that ; )

Thanks Guys. I was trying and trying last night. I ended up taping it up, have 2 coats on it now. I was getting agravated and didnt want to break it. It is loose though on the door , is there a way to tighen it up?

Anyone know how to remove the glovebox door lock? Thanks , Alan

Hey guys, Springs have actually been in the car for about 20 years when I had done the suspension. Never had a problem with the ride or the handling. I did those because thats how I like the stance of the car. I used to actally have real bad wheel hop until I bought and installed the No Hop bars. Ever since then it launched great.. When I did put the suspension back together using the same springs the fronts were a big PITA. But I also did not have the motor in when I reinstalled them. I bought like 20 bags of concrete mix for weight to get them back in. That was also a PITA because I returned the concrete when I was done.. If your interested I added some pictures to my car domain page where I am at with the car now. Bottom of page 3. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3329691/1971-chevrolet-monte-carlo/page-3

So I went and Measured it. From the top Mount to the center of the mounting stud it is 23 1/4.. Tried calling PST but have to call them back tomorrow.

The body is back on the frame. I dont belive it's a weight issue at this time since body on. I didnt have any issue with the front shocks. Ill have to get some pics of that and update it.

The car is on the ground. Actually on the wheel dollies in the rear. Heres somthing I forgot since Car has been apart and now reasembling. If I remember correctly the front and rad rear springs are for a 71 impala station wagon big block. If you look at the pic in my car domain you'll see the stance. I had the old shock (dont know why it bad) on a shelf and it is same size. I do remember having trouble installing those as well. Wonder if I need those stock extension , but dont really want to do that. I'll try calling the place tomorrow and see if there a diffrent shock or part number for that other vehicle.. Yikes http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3329691/1971-chevrolet-monte-carlo/page-2#33296910039

I'll have to check when I get home but I think they are all the way extended. Only thing I can think of is the rear sits higher than stock

I had ordered the 4pack = 70-51068 Belive they were : front = 55-r024b rear = 55-r022

Meant the mount was 3 to 4 inches past the mount for the shock. Car is on the ground. No straps on the shocks. Thanks guys

Sorry , have pics on Car Domain. Added a pic of the shock to it on page 3. I dont know how to add pictures to the postings here though. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3329691/1971-chevrolet-monte-carlo

Thanks guys, Definatly wrong shock then, Tried adding a picture but dont know how to do that

1st of all Merry Christmas & Happy Chanukah... Need some assistance. I bought new High performance Bilstein shocks for the car and have a question about the rear. I never thought about it previously with the other shocks. I had gotten a 12 bolt from a friend and it has been in there for years. I mounted the Tops first and the car is on the the ground. The bottom Mount of the shock the is about 3 inches over the stud/pin the bottom of the shock slides onto. So if I jack up the car to slide the bottom of the shock onto the pin/stud and put the car back down wont the shock be over Extended? There is another hole in the braket about 3 to 4 inches above where the current hole for the bottom pin/stud is. It is much smaller, but I can drill it out or is that not correct ? Thanks Alan

So I pulled the camshaft out thinking I would be able to decifer the numbers. Curious to figure out what I has since I can not remember. Nope. If anyone has an Idea please let me know.. I am leaning to go with the roller cam and keep the 781's for now. I like the Idea of the stroker alot. Just not sure with the expense of the kit and having block machined for it. So depending on what the machinist says maybe try and boost the compresion. Maybe new rods and pistons. But I will need to have it rebalanced then. So here are the numbers from the Cam. Thank You 182 p3 805-97 looking down the length of the cam it has 20 1581 d4 m other side of it = CWC

I think I have Rpms stuck in my head because she died off at 5800 and seemed like it she should have been going faster. So for some goofy reason I seem to be thinking if she tached up to 6200 to 6400 she would be better. I know goofy. So the 6400 isnt important what is is trying to get it right. So I know I still want the roller cam /lifters and rockers. I think I would rather do the stroker than the heads. I am assuming I cant just do somthing with Rods and pistons correct, has to be entire lower end.. What are high RPM's on a big block? 6500 and above?

Fist of all I do appreciate everyone's opinion and input and I want to thank everyone. I am restoring the car and the project snowballed as you all know how that happens. My original intent with the Motor was to just change the intake to an RMP air gap and clean up the motor, paint it and go back in. But since the motor is out and it was rebuilt so long ago 1989/1990 I am thinking I should have a machine shop go through the bottom end. If I do that of course I should get a new cam lifters heads cleaned up. I thought the Roller Cam is much better than a flat tappet so I want a Roller. But no facts, that is just what I thought. My friends said " why do all that and just change the cam it will be the same build ?". Said to use plastigauge to check the main bearings and if all good instead of spending the money on the machine shop do a top end kit and I would have about 540 HP for the a bit more money. The snow ball is turning into an Avalanche ; ) . The car will be driven no trailer Queen. And I do like to hammer it all the time. I would like a high 11or low 12 car and would like 500-550 hp if that possible. With just changing the cam and the intake I assume that won’t happen? If I do a stoker I am paying for the parts and to have it machined. If I I have it gone through and get aluminum heads I am paying for the heads. So I guess my question is can The car get to 500-550 hp with just the cam change and some work on the 781 heasd which already have the larger valves. But may need new valves as it appears the rockrs may have worn the tip of the valve. I also pulled the heads because I couldn’t remember what pistons I had. Turns out there TRW - L2399 0.30. So my main question is :Do I need the to stroker the motor and get roller cam to get to 500-550 HP? Do I need to get Aluminum Heads and Roller cam to get to 500-550 HP. Can I just have the the bottom end checked change the cam and get to500-550 HP? I also noticed alot of opinions on heads and was wondering if I do go that route has anyone used Pro Comp Heads? Or what heads should I get if I go that route? Or If I go stroker is there a certian Piston balancer/Flywheel I will need to get? Can I do a stroker on a 2 bolt main block? Agian thank you all for your insite and assistance. Anyone know this guy out of Michigan who sells pro comp heads on ebay? 1fastzmadman http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160687460513 ** Currently *** 73 454 Block 2bolt main steel crank trw? L2399 0.30 pistons 781 heads with larger valves RPM Air Gap Intake TH - 400 3.73 Rear end

Thanks, how long have you had the Sanderson's ? I pulled the heads off today and the Pistons are "L2399.030" when I google them they come up as TRW or Sealed Power Forged and block is 0.30 over.

I want it to have it all : ) . But know I cant. Honestly I want a fast street car that will pin you to the seat. Able to drive all the time and just plain have fun with. Would love to do low 11's but dont want a roll bar. I actually rather have a roller cam than the Aluminum heads. I already have the 781's with larger Valves. I would like the power band to be from 1800 to 6400. Before I pulled the motor and started on the car she would tach out at 5800 and seemed like I should have had more. So I what I want, my goal is a streetable car low 11's with a power band to be from 1800 to 6400. I would like 1 7/8 headers but usally only see 1 3/4 or 2 inch out there for full length. Would 2 1/2 or 3 inch exhause be better. I am going to go with the Torch-Tech or the Pypes not sure wich yet. Is that possiable with with a 454 roller cam and 781 heads and an RPM air gap intake and a 3.73 rear end?

Thanks alot guys. I was going with Lunati since I saw them referred to here alot. The guy I spoke to said to get the better Lifters, said they are quite a bit more 600.00 smackers but his opinion was I should get those. Any other Cam companies that do customer Grinds that I should look at? If I do go with an Aluminum head what type? My friend sugjested the Edlbrock but that was a top end kit and not a roller cam. With the heads it will come down to how much to go through and port vs how much a pair of heads would be. I think I had the heads ported/Polished when the motor was done. But that was so long ago (1989) I dont remember.. Thanks everyone

Thanks Guys.. I think I am have gone from motor cleanup to rebuild.. Only wanna do this once more. I had the Motor built in 1989, steel crank Balanced and all. I Changed Cams twice on it due to failure. One of my friends sugjested Advanced in Wheeling Il and I spoke to them and they sound pretty good. So I gonna stick with the 781 heads I have just have them freshened up maybe ported? They already have the larger valves.. I spoke to Steve at Lunati and think I gonna go that route with the Roller Cam. Is more expexnsive but no Break in for it. Gonna be about 1100.00 for Custom Grind Cam the good Roller Lifters and Valve Springs. I think I gonna do the Rockers Pushrods and Timing set through them as well. Keep it all one.. What do you guys think

I was thinking since I have the motor out now and still debating on cleaning up motor and new cam a rolller. I spoke to Steve at Lunati who sugjested a Custom Grind which sounded good said it would tach up to 6400. Then I was talking with My friend who thinks I should get the top end kit with Aluminum heads and cam and everything. He wants me to do the Edlbrock top end combo that is 2500.00 but it is not a Roller Cam.... The Lunati Cam, Better Lunati Roller lifters and valve springs for my heads came to 1100.00 so I am stilll debating wich to do.. Will still need a converter. More decisions now. What you guys think..

I never had a problem with the car stalling. Always moved pretty well. Just seemed to Tack up slowly and would tach out at 5800 to 6000 and I just want more. I was thinking since I have the motor out now and still debating on cleaning up motor and new cam a rolller. I spoke to Steve at Lunati who sugjested a Custom Grind which sounded good said it would tach up to 6400. Then I was talking with My friend who thinks I should get the top end kit with heads and cam and everything. He wants me to do the Edlbrock top end combo that is 2500.00. The Lunati Cam, Better Lunati Roller lifters and valve springs for my heads came to 1100.00 so I am stilll debating wich to do.. Will still need a converter. More decisions now. What you guys think..