snomobeelr

So here is a dumb Question. So Is a Roller cam Benifical for the street? Will I notice it? I was all ready to get one and still am. I called Lunati and the guy said to do a custom Grind and listened to what I wanted. The price for the Cam - The more expensive lifters he said I should use as the cam should tach up to 6400 and Valve springs is $1100.00. I dont mind spending the money to do it right and once. Just want to make sure I am not going overboard. Car is on the street. But like to have fun as everyone does. Also does anyone know if the Chevy 781 heads can use the Dual Springs? He was not sure about that.. The Cam he sugested I belive he said had " 558 lift intake and exhast & 228 / 236 Duration I belive.. Here is the build : TH-400 Stall ??? 1973 454 block Heads are 781 casting Oval port with the Large Valves CAM ??? 9 to 1 compression air gap intake 750 Demon 373 rear end

I Didn't think of the need to rebalance so Maybe I'll keep it at 9-1. The stall I have if I remember corectly is basically stock, 1200. So maybe just do the Roller Cam Lifters get matching springs and roller Rockers? Leave the compression. I always thought about a Turbo, maybe in the Future for that and I belive low compresion is good for that. I dont remember what type of head gasket is on there. What type of converter would I want?

Sorry for being long winded : I have motor and everthing else out of the car. Exhaust is definatly going to be Redone New. I was going to just clean up the motor and paint it, and replace the Performer Manifold with an RPM/Airgap intake. I originally had the Motor rebuilt in 1989/1990 maybe just answered my own question. It was Balanced heads are 781 casting with bigger valves 9-1 compression with a mild 280 Comp cam. Motor is actually on the 3rd cam. Engine maybe has 10000 miles on it. Before I pulled it to start restoring the car this last time my oil pressure dropped 10 PSI at Idle. Turns out the Sumps was not tacked in and had pulled out and dropped some. Any how Now I am thinking of going with a roller cam and thinking so far down smay just have the motor gone through cleaned new cam and maybe bump the compression up. Seening some of the other posts I see the Lunati roller cam is recomended so I will give them a call. Does anyone know a decent machine shop in the chicagoland area? Car is driven as a crusier like driving it and hammering on it around town. Dont get to the track.. I Also will need headers and see posTing on issues with proportioning valve. The set I had was Hedman 1 3/4 inch headers and no problem with the original location of the Proportioning valve. I will be getting new headers and exhast as well. Will new 1 3/4 be ok if I bump up the motor or will I need 2 inch.. I am also planing on a Torque Tech and or Pypes Mandrel bent exhaust. should that be 2 1/2 or 3 inch? Thnks you Current Build: 454 9-1 compression 280 Comp Cam stock heads 781 casting with larger Valves Air Gap RPM Intake Turbo 400 Trans 3.7. rear end

Dave, which Wilwood master cylner do you have? I had called summit and they said the Wilwood 260-8556-BK was for Manual Brakes. I ended up ordering Calipers from "The Right Stuff Detailing" they are GM calipers that are powedercoated for 179.00 for the pair.. Was thinking of sending my Mater Cylnder to get powdercated and rebuild it. I had really like that Wilwood 260-8556-BK. Ive got all new stainless brakelines I am installing.. Is it a pain to do that Adjustable proportion Valve? I aready purchased a new Brass one but have concern's since so many people have issues with headers and the Proportion valve. Thanks

I have a Mildly Built 454 , the conveter I have is basically stock from what I remember think it was a 1200 stall but not sure.. I am putting the Motor and trans back in so wanted to know if there is a better stall I should put in.. Also if I should just keep the stock Transmount or get an diffrent one.. Here is the build : TH-400 1973 454 block Heads are 781 casting/ Oval port with the Large Valves Mild cam 9 to 1 compression air gap intake 750 Demon 373 rear end

Getting ready to Motor and trans Back in. 454 Mildy built. Dont belive I want the Solid or the Poly Mounts as I do not want the Vibration. But what is a good manufaturer/Motor mount? Thanks

Hello, I have a Mildly Built 454 TH-400 with a 3.73 rear end. I Have all new Brake lines rear brakes and new Booster. So I am getting a new Master and front Calipers. I am debating on the stock type summit cast Iron calipers they sell that are PowderCoated. Or the Wilwood Dual Piston one's. Has anyone had any experience with the Wilwood dual piston's? Are they ok and are they worth the money or am I better off with the Cast Iron Brake Caliper Kit? I am going to get the Wilwood Master "Wilwood 260-8556-BK " Anyone know if I can use the Stock Master Pushrod with that? Thanks Wilwood 260-8556-BK : 1-1/8” bore - Wilwood Aluminum Tandem Chamber Master Cylinders 239.00 Wilwood Disc Brakes 230-3776 - Wilwood Master Cylinder Pushrods 8.00 ............................................................................................ Summit Racing SUM-BK201SR - Summit Racing® Cast Iron Brake Caliper Kits $200.00 Wilwood Disc Brakes 140-11290-R - Wilwood GM D52 Dual Piston Caliper Kits $375.00

Anyone know how to remove the Sector Gear? I have everything disassembled exept got the Sector Gear. It is misning a tooth so I am going to replace it if I can remove it.

WOW, I finally got it what a Pita. Thanks alot guys I appriciate it. I also finnaly found a picture of exactly where the casting was.. Thanks agian http://www.stolenandrecovered.com/howto/gmcyl.php

I removed the two-prong contact switch, But how/What do I "insert a thin tool into the circled slot to break the casting flash," Below from the car craft article http://www.carcraft.com/howto/56459/index.html http://www.carcraft.com/howto/56459/photo_05.html The two-prong contact switches your ignition-key buzzer on and off. Lift the switch straight up (don’t lose the spring clip that’s attached to it). To remove the ignition-lock cylinder, turn the key to Lock, insert a thin tool into the circled slot to break the casting flash, and push down to release the spring latch on the cylinder.

Not to sound stupid but what tab?

Got evrything apart, but can still not able to remove the Lock Cylnder. I followed the instructions on the car craft article but still not able to remove lock cylnder. Both articles below seem pretty good. But still having diffuculty. Any Ideas? http://www.carcraft.com/howto/56459/index.html http://www.buickperformance.com/tiltsteeringcolumnwobble.htm

Thanks, I got the tool and got the lock plate off. I removed the 1 screw for the turn signal lever and the 3 screws for the turn signal mechanism. So how fo I remove the Key Lock cylnder ? And there are 4 or 5 bolt head/Screwsdo I remove those as well ? Thanks

In processses of trying to disassemble my colum to cleanand paint it. Sterring wheel off. Cover and 3 screws ar off. Will need 1 new screw. Clip around shaft is off. I can not get the plate to come off. I have removed that wire clip around the shaft. I had to walk away before I broke somthing. Do I need to remove the KEY/Lock mechanism 1st? If so how is that done?? Thanks

I had same type of issue. My oil pressure dropped but drove it for a while. I puuled the motor (not for that reason) when I pulled the pan turns out the Sump/Screen was coming out of the pump and tilted down.

The car is totally apart but the motor I just cleaned up and replacing the Performer intake with a RPM Air gap Intake. and new oil pump since it is out. Keeping everything else the same. Engine has maybe 15,000 miles on it It was rebilt in 90. Cam has been replaced b4. Still debating between 1 7/8 or 2 inch full lenghth headers though.

Ok so Looks like I am probably going with your Suggjestions , hooker 2 inch with 3/2 collector hok-2455-1hkr ceramic 375.95 at summit. I called Jett Hott to see what there price is 2455 hooker comp 419.95 with the sterling coating . The exhaust I am now looking at the Torque Tech and Pypes 3 inch with the X-Pipe.. The funny thing is summit is actually cheaper on the pypes system than pypes directly?? Torque Tech : 3 Inch X-PIPE NO muffler 528.00 + 62.10 = + 230.00 for mufflers....... Total = 758.00 W/Shipping PYPES.......: 3 Inch X-PIPE/muffler 531.30 Shipping 45.00 = 581.00 + reducers 68.25...Total = 649.00 W/Shipping Summit Pypes: 3 Inch X-PIPE/muffler 429.92.........................+ reducers 56.95...Total = 487.00 W/O SHIPPING

Are the Hooker Comp headers 2 inch? Is that too much for my setup? 1973 454 block Heads are 781 casting Oval port with the Large Valves Mild cam 9 to 1 compression air gap intake 750 Demon 373 rear end.

Thanks David. What are the diffrence in the Mufflers?? Anyone know with my application do I need or will I gain anything by having a H-Pipe or a Cross Pipe?

Trying to decide if I need new hedders . Also which exhaust 2 1/2 or 3 inch. The car is going to be a crusier, but still want it fast as possible : ). It is a 1973 454 block, Mild cam , 9 to 1 compression. air gap intake, 750 Demon, 373 rear end. Heads are 781 Oval with the Large Valves. In process of putting car back together. My old hedders are Headman 1 7/8 or 1 3/4 I cant remember. They had the HPC coating on them . Some has flaked off over time since they have been on the car since at least 1990 and would need to be recoated. The headders are ok but if everything else is new dont want to place old headders back on. If I am to get new hedders would 2 inch be to Big?? I am looking at the Torque Tech Exhaust system and trying to decide if I should do the H-Pipe or the Cross over Pipe as well as 2 1/2 or 3 inch. With my set up is it worth it? Torque Tech 3 Inch : H-PIPE 423.90 45.00 SHIPPING 3 Inch : X- PIPE 465.00 62.10 SHIPPING 3" Super Dynomax/20" 230.00

Nope haven't painted it yet. Just ordered a new intake. I ordered the RPM Air Gap. Still need to get an oil pump and oil Pan. My oil pan is pretty bad, going to get a new one. So it may be a bit b4 I paint it. By the way, thanks for posting the Pictures.

It was Cheaper than Bondo ; ) Thanks for your input guys

Didnt know how to add pic's here so I added pictures of the engine to page 3 of my car domain page. I should have taken b4 pictures but i Didn't. Was planning on having motor rebuilt to clean it up. But looks like it will clean up well. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3329691/3

Since the engine is out I am cleaning it up. Going Orange. Any Paint Suggestions? I am going to get the RPM AIR GAP, if I cant afford the Black Powdercoated one it might get painted Orange as well. Do I bother to prime it ? Thanks

so the mount is closer to the Firewall and the 2 fingers face the Core support correct?