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FASTSS454

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Posts posted by FASTSS454

  1. I have had several friends put 3.73's in their cars and they have taken them out because of the RPM's at speed. 3.42's, 3.31's or even a 3.08 (with a big block), made them happy. One put a 3.08 (big block car) and added a 700R4 and is getting 20mpg. 3.73 sounds sexy, but if you drive on the highway alot with a 3-speed automatic, it isn't all it's cracked u to be.

     

    Originally Posted By: Sam (Bones)
    I run approx 3400rpm @ 70 w/3.73's and a turbo 400 w/a 28" tire

     

    Ditto, I like the take off but hate the high revs at a sustained long run. You didn't mention if you have a 3 or 4 speed trans so that will play into the recommendations you get.

  2. Low pedal is caused by 2 things, rear brakes not adjusted properly or the linkage between the pedal and master not adjusted properly or incorrect parts. On the booster there is a pin that pushes the master cylinder and some are adjustable. The master cylinders have two styles of pistons in them one has a hole that is deeper than the other, if your using mismatched parts you will experiance to much play before the clearance is taken up.

  3. My experiance with hydro boost is it does indeed feel mushy when stepping on the pedal, I can push the pedal to the floor on most of them I have driven while in park, when moving you can't do that without flying through the windshield. It is just a strange feeling pedal, different from wht you are used too if you have never driven a vehicle with it. The only reason to convert to it is you have a radical cam that makes less than 14 inches of vac. The best mod I did to my braking system as far as pedal feel was a set of braided lines to replace the oem rubber ones.

  4. Hi Dennis. Here's the photos I have of the car from 1974/75...one pic shows the driver's side sport mirror but nothing on the passenger side and the other pic shows them on both sides. I was just a kid but I do remember my Uncle having the passenger side one added but not sure what it came from. I have my suspicions that it may have accidentally gone out in the garbage or something at the plant. smile

    MonteCarloAndBoatCirca1975.jpg

    MonteCarloCirca1975.jpg

    Cheers,

    Larry

     

    I have never seen another Monte with the sport mirror on the right side, I would love to add one to mine so if anyone has any info on doing it it would be nice to hear about what would fit.

  5. I've never had to do anything to a valve body other than install new parts from a complete transmission rebuild kit and install shift kits. You could call a transmission shop for their opinion of the possible problem.

     

    Here's what I'd do:

     

    Remove the dipstick and smell the fluid on it. Does it smell burned or is it just like nice new fluid? Does it look darker than new fluid?

     

    Remove the pan and check for friction material particles. If there is abnormal amounts of material in the pan, a new valve body will be a waste of money. Post a pic, if needed.

     

    If the clutch pack wear is the problem, you'll want to clean the old fluid from the torque converter, the cooling lines, and the radiator, no matter what transmission goes back in it.

     

    Dan

     

     

    Dan is right, I think it is a failure of the friction and steel discs, valve bodys just don't fail like this. Even if it was a valve body failure you would be stuck in one forward gear unless it fell off the bottom of the transmission.

     

    The B&M kit is a good item if you want to rebuild it yourself. Make sure you take lots of pictures as it comes apart so you know how it goes back together, and yes do a complete flush of the lines and cooler. I would spring for a new convertor or have a trans shop open it up and clean it out.

  6. To the OP keep the gap at .035 unless you are running HEI then open it up to .040 a MSD is just multiple sparks not higher voltage unless you use a MSD coil to, the voltage is set by the coil windings and the MSD is just the triggering device for the coil. E3 are just a expensive gimmick because we all know that electricity will take the shortest path to ground.

  7. Frame's totally stripped, so there's no weight where I could put a jack under the lower a-arm and do that instead. Plus I just don't feel comfortable doing it without the compressor.

    Ah that would explain why you needed the compressor.

  8. This was the post I was referring to.

     

    I put it in the one that says bat on it. How many wires do I need to hook up hei distributor to work properly.

     

    Not this one, sorry if you misunderstood my post.

     

    Originally Posted By: allchevy
    it's called a test

     

  9. I put it in the one that says bat on it. How many wires do I need to hook up hei distributor to work properly.

     

    You don't want it on a battery terminal because that one will be hot all the time. You need to find a terminal that is hot while cranking and hot when the key is in the run position and dead when the key is turned off. If anyone else waqnts to hook up a HEI you can use the factory coil positive wire but you need to remove the resistor wire from the circuit and supply 12 volts.

  10. The three prong limiter? God that brings me back to the 70's when I would have 4-5 cars with gauges on em at a time. I worked for one of the very few gas stations that did A/C work at the time. You can check it with a ohm meter but I don't remember which 2 teminals had to have continuity now, sucks to get old but I bet if you look at the wiring you can figure it out. The switch itself would just supply a ground when overheated to blow the limiter. One wire from the switch, one wire from the A/C controls and the third wire ran to compressor clutch. Very simple system.

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