Stroker-383

where is keisler located?

Okay, i heard a company in the neighbourhood saying that its possible, but takes a lot of money in reinforcing stuff ... The guy that sold me the engine told me he trashed 2 transmissions .. one was a 400r ( B&M reinforced - new!! ) that he trashed by flooring it in second gear when driving 50 mph , the converter couldnt take it and slipped like hell... then burned the trans.. The second one was a powerglide , that when installed he drove about 20miles with it, floored it at about 30 mph, and the trans blew apart... haha i was there and there was a lot of debree and oil... So he picked up the transmission parts, wrapped it, and gave it back to the supplier and given a ( under warranty ) new transmission ( powerglide reinforced, 2 gears ) .. but that transmission is sold ( damnit )...

Hey guys, Been awhile that i posted something regarding my project monte carlo because of several business progresses and expanding my own company. ( custom painting, motorcycle paintwork, pinstriping, goldleafing, etc. ) but now i've got the time again!! last January i've decided that im going to change my monte carlo with, what some call, an extreme set up. I found a used but excellent engine, that is going to replace my 383 stroker ( now about 500hp to the flywheel, after some modifications i did last summer ( 2012 ).. ( i blew my trans once, fixed it, then twisted my primairy driveshaft, fixed that and than smoked 2 sets of rear tires in about a month time ) Every time i feel the power of the car i want even more haha, so i bought a 496 cui big block stroker with a pretty wild solid cam ( comp cams, comp can lifters, holley 1000cfm carb, alu heads, ported and polished ) .. with about 680hp to the flywheel for that extra ( whoo ) puch* uch .. having a stroke when flooring it :-) ... Now the engine part is taken care of, i'm in search of a new tranny.. since the 700r4 cant handle that extra punch.. im thinking, a 400r powerglide will do the trick but maybe im thinking about manual shifting it!! With a muncie 4 spd ( anyone got suggestions on reinforcements or pakkage deals? )...or maybe problems and other things that might come up when building a set up like this?... also im now on a vacation , these past two weeks ( from 14 febr till 12 march ) in the area of daytona, florida, for the daytona speed week ( i saw the crazy and horriffing crash on friday , from the Z tower at the track and bought me a set of Goodyear Eagle racing tires ( 28x10 ) slicks for the car to drive as a daily ( illegal in the netherlands but who gives a f*&k ).. for that extra grip and smoke haha now it turns and goes, im in need of a full coil over kit for a 70/72 monte, ( QA1 or something else that i can work with or can ajust.. ) and a posi 12 bolt ( or 9" ) rearend. ( note: im going to box the chassis from front till back , and weld the complete body of the car trough and through for extra stiffness.. including fabricating a complete rollcage ) Im currently staying near daytona / orlando /miami for vacation/business and if someone knows anyone or a company nearby ( maybe 200miles from here , not a problem ) please let me know.. i prefer second hand parts ( used parts ), or from a junkyard or swapmeet just let me know. ( tomorrow im at bushnell, webster, car en vintage cars show ) and will be here nearby daytona untill 11 march. If you guys know anyone with that sort of part, please let me know! thanks!

Hi all, Its been a while since I've posted something here, but most of the "problems" are solved. First I pulled of the valve covers on the right side ( standing in front of the car ) because of the ticking noise was coming from that side the most. Immediately i noticed that one rocker arm was to loose, i looked at the center adjusting screw and noticed there were two small cracks inside the head of the adjusting screw, i think that is why it had to much space and made a ticking noise. so pulled out the old one, had a new one lying around and put it in, adjusted it again, also i checked the rest of the rocker arms and found two more with to much space... Also after doing the right side, i adjusted the left side, found three that were to loose, adjusted them as well, and what... She's running like a beauty! Also mounted the new spectre performance fabricated aluminum valve covers. Mounted the Autometer tacho ,pro comp, 5" with external shifter light etc. on the steering column. this is how it looked and looks. And yes guys, those old rusted out standard headers are going out and will be replaced by two ceramic coated hookers soon! Also i found a very nice link to some outrageous autocrossing projects that i have been on every evening and reading everything. Hope some guys know about this: Modifiers heaven!

Here are some pics of car with new wheels!!! Cragar 397 8 x 27 295/50/15 at the rear 255/60/15 in the front! installed the original clone steering wheel (cheap but cool) Simpson seatbelts not clone-ish, but we had a bad accident in 2001, with 3-point seatbelts en made 2,5 roll with a chevy suburban 1976... and ended up at the boddem of the car. So i want to be save now.. ( my moms in a wheelchair because of this accident... wasnt our fault btw ).. Next up: Ajusting the rocker arms ( roller arms ) , now i have the valve covers and fel-pro valve cover gaskets etc. more pics to come!

OK, What i dont get is, why if you remove your valve covers and start the engine you wont look like a "oil sweat and rigs" employee afterwords??.. You have oilpressure when you start your engine, and this oil wants to get "out". Also, I saw a few vids, how to adjust your rocker rollers (pushrods). So , this weekend i will try that, also will make a vid on how it sounds right now, and afterwords;)

Thanks for the information, Was planning on checking the rockers first.. Maybe that is what's making that ticking noise. If ajusting the rockers isnt getting the ticking noise away, i will take the intake manifold off, remove the valve covers, turn engine to first cil. outlet , and remove all of the rockers en pushrods.(offcourse turning the engine every time for a different cilinder) Then will take out all of the lifters. ( a lifter cant be "broken"... it is only possible that a small amount of coal ( exhaust black stuff) is in the oil, that is making the lifter "stick" and not expand. If this is the problem, i can clean them , but i'm thinking of buying a new set of roller lifters and matching pushrods. This will also take most of the friction between the camshaft and a flat tapped lifters away. I am thinking of a set of roller lifters with a tie-bar attached.. is this better?( i guess because of the connection between them they are better stabilized.? (+ But only when i can't get the ticking away with just ajusting the rockers )

Nope, The roof was raw steel with a clearcoat sprayed over it. Also about 20 inches from the bottom/up at the doors etc. are raw steel with a clearcoat. pictures:

Well, for the pictures , i have enough of them... Now, my girl is powered by a 383 stroker putting out about 420hp, thats at the flywheel , not the wheels. It has a stall converter ( not know what kind , still need to look that up, but it shifts amazingly fast and beautifull. ) I the future i want to buy a 502 cui or a 572cui and put that in...(crate)..but first, + rollcage ( exact replica of the tftf car) + Hoodcowl, homemade + interior sheetmetal etc. Well... i have the first setback already.. one off my hydraulic lifters is ticking (hanging) .. hope to get it ajusted..( how??) If that doesnt solve the problem, i will buy a complete lifter hydraulic roller kit ... ( will this fit ) Thanks

They are hooker headers, for the tires, in the movie they use Goodyear Eagle Drag slicks, costing approx $300 a piece.... so that isnt working(after one set). also they are illegal here. So the tires will be 295 rear , and sprayed big letters on Goodyear eagle.

Hi all, Its been a while, but i still have the monte, in my garage considering its winter. It is going to be a visual clone from the movie "The fast and the Furious" Tokyo Drift. interior etc. is going to be all the same. Last December ordered some parts at summit. It's going to sound mean as hell!! Still waiting for some other parts. ( - A arms front lower and upper ) Building in progress. ( Update: Got a small ticking sound in my engine bay since a couple of days, propably one lifter isn't moving, so ordered a set of lifters and a new hydraulic roller cam shaft...)

Hi all, It's been a while...but have done a lot of work on the monte, It's looking like this right now: Made some ajustments to the body, For those who are paying attention : I pulled out the turn signal lights in the front and rear fenders and closed them ( welded plates in ) Took some photos on a cool place nearby: Then i have a question: I'm looking for another rear axle ( diff set-up ), the one i have now is only spinning with one wheel ( if you know what i mean ) Does anyone know how i can solve this and burn with two tires i.s.o. one thanks

Hi all, It's hard for me to pull this string now, but i hope you will understand .. Also my regards to Mitzi for bringing this up. I'm saying this because i bought - as some of you know - Robyn's 1972 monte carlo. A really beautifull car . I found the car on the fgmcc forum , i wasnt a member then.. but was able to look into the forums. ( some of them ) ... I found in the "for sale / wanted" area , Robyns story, telling you guys he was selling his 1972 monte carlo. After searching the fgmcc forum and site , I found his email ... and was hoping for a quick reply . I got an e-mail, saying he wanted to sell the car, but he wasnt familiar with shipping the car to the Netherlands. I told him that we are familiar with shipping cars .( We bought a few cars , for friends .. also my dad/brother have several american cars ) Robyn sold his car to me , also with a lot of extra parts and accesoires .. spare hood / airco kit etc. ... For the specified "roll on - Roll off" shipping mode, the shipping company told us , that all loose parts or parts that don't belong in the car .. the needed to be shipped another time... That sucked for me offcourse but also for Robyn...I hoped for the best and the parts can be shipped another time. It's been a while now , i emailed Robyn in February about the parts , and we emailed a lot, again he was very helpfull and was trying to find a way to wrap the parts .( wooden box / cardbord ) for shipping. But at that time we were searching for a solution, Robyn past away. Again i feel bad about me asking you guys ... I have emailed Mitzi .. telling her that, if she isnt up to it yet , its not a problem at all...( I can understand , offcourse ). My question to you guys is: Maybe it's an idea , trusting you.. that we can help Mitzi , taking this problem out of her hands. Maybe someone is living close to Mitzi , that is a friend.. that can help. Again this is very hard for me , hoping i dont hurt anyone by asking this. Maybe someone close can ask Mitzi about this.. and help me . Thanks in advance, best regards Bram van 't Rood The Netherlands

Hi all, It's driving like a beauty again! Had some problems with my tires , so had to get some new ones .. same size etc. ( I have more grip now! ) Also painted the wheels , black ... Here are some pics of the car looking as it is now: Sprayed the trunkfloor with bedliner ( black coating, that's soft .. )

Hi all, Well after putting it back together a couple of days / weeks ago.. It's driving like a beauty again! Had some problems with my tires , so had to get some new ones .. same size etc. ( I have more grip now! )

Thanks alot , that makes stuff a lot easier. Looking at your bushing in the oil pump ... yours is even more tapped inside of the oilpump ... so i can just leave mine as is. I will read the install manual properly for installing the torque converter. Thanks for info

I think you misunderstood me : The bushing WAS sticking out for about 2 mm.(0,079 inch) .. I tapped it inwords... as you can see on the picture.. So do i need to pull it back out .. so that it sticks out for 0,079 inch or can i leave it like this .. ( Tapped in ... )? ( Thanks !! )

So the bushing can be left alone then : I can leave it like this ? :

Okay thanks all... So i will need to pull the bushing for the torque converter back .. about how far does it need to stick out?? What is there to damage .. the polyester / rubber white ring behind it , sits perfectly and has room... Now i just need to find a way to pull the bushing back

Went to the dyno about 3 weeks ago ..Pulled 412 horsepower. Took me 3 runs to ajust everthing .. had some trouble with "detonation"... ( Wrong burning time/ignition timing )and placed a air unit , from the dyno guys... that increased the power with about 20 hp. Also the tires made a lot of noise and wrong wheel grip on the dyno .. dyno had some slicks lying around .. Hooshiers .so put them on.. It's a real beast now ... Pulling rubber stipes till 3-rd gear

Well started an other topic about some issues i have... check it HERE!

Well i've checked everything so far .. But got a couple of questions. ( Sorry for all the info I am asking for, I appreciate it very much, got a lot of reply's ! Thanks all in advance ) . 1) First I pulled out the front seal , you can see this without seal on picture 1. There is a big aluminium ring inside of the oilpump. ( Pointed on picture 2 , with number 2 ) Picture 1 This alu ring is sticking out , about 2 mm.(0,079 inch), is this normal.. or do i have to slighty and gently tap it towards the gearbox so that it is even with the oilpomp edge? ( Check picture 2 - number 2 , where i've done just that ). Picture 2 2) Second : I've checked the torque converter for any rough edges on the shaft that is going in to the tranny. So far i can't find any big damage or even small damage isnt there . ( See picture 3 & 4 and it's pointed out again. The number 3 , is where the seal from the tranny has been ( i think ) after blowing it out of the tranny fit number 4 ). Picture 3 Picture 4 3) Third: Check picture 5, the rear seal ( As i called earlier : Seal thats between tranny and diff - i didnt know the name - Is leaking also... So i am going to change that to. The seal is pointed out on the picture with number 5 written on it... The green arrows and number 6 , is : - Is it normal that you can move the tranny axle up-down- and sideways ... (so in a radial way , not in a axial way) for about 0.157 inch ?? Picture 5 Hope that you guys can help me with this ... after knowing this i can build in the tranny this weekend ( sunday ), and driver hopefully on monday! Best regards and thank in advance! Bram

Hi all, I bought a new front seal, ( where converter seals of on tranny gear ) here at a local transmission shop ... they have enough. Also purchased the end gear seal ( from gearbox to diff ) Will try and mount those this weekend , and check if thats the problem.. Tranny shop says that i maybe need to use some filler rings or spacers to adjust the converter closer to the tranny, to let the seal, seal it perfectly.

I'm trying to replace the front seal of the tranny first... see if this will solve the problem... @ grease : Thanks , that would be great!

I'm reading this topic wondering , why some have a signature from Robyn ( The always happy seller ) that sold me his 1972 monte. Now i understand what it means. My condolences to the Lance family, Like others, I never met Robyn personally, but emailed a lot, buying his car . Always was a straight up guy. Will miss his humor. Was a true racing fanatic! Best regards, Bram The Netherlands