superstk

Hey guys!! Once again, haven't been at the site in a long while. What I am trying to do over the winter is to fabricate a sheetmetal firewall panel in trunk are to separate the trunk area from seating area. Does anyone have an original trunk panel they can trace the outside to paper or cardboard and send it to me? I can then use this as a template for cutting so sheet metal. With rollbar cage installed, I'll probably have to make it from 2 pieces and either weld or pop-rivet them together. Haven't looked up the specifics for NHRA as to rules yet but....

This question may belong in another section but I need a tracing of the rear seat panel which is in trunk area. I want to create a sheet metal panel to isolate the trunk from seating area. I have an 8 gal. fuel cell in the trunk. Anyone have a panel they can trace for me? Thanks, Fred

Again, thanks for the replies. Looking at the setup, I measured the steering wheel and it is 15" in diameter. Looking at steering wheels, I'm considering a 14" wheel. I just can't see myself with a 13" wheel. 14" wheel will give me a little extra room on the window side to clear the roll cage bar at the post. Now I'm also considering changing the bucket seat to a racing bucket. Ahhh, I hate when the mind starts to consider new ideas. Just starts to cost more money.

Thanks for the reply's guys. Here's my next question then. Is th stock non-tilt steering column shorter than the tilt column? If so, who has one for trade. PS. I'm PM'ing Andre.

OK. Haven't been on here in several years. Still have my '71 Monte and am looking to add a quick release steering wheel hub. Before I purchase one, I want to ask a few questions. Can the quick release hub be installed on a tilt wheel column (stock column)? If so, will it extend further out from column or will it shorten the length of the column (w/steering wheel on). With the cage in the car and gaining a few pounds. I need something that makes it easier to get into the car. I've changed the side bar to a swing arm kit from Alston Racecars and I love it. However, the stock steering wheel seems like it could use a 1" reduction in diameter to make it more comfortable to steer with the cage being so close on the left hand side in relation to the steering wheel. Anyway, any suggestions or comments would be appreciated. Fred

OK. Finally got the chance to weigh the tires unmounted. Each 26x4.5x15 Goodyear Eagle front runner weighs 12.5 lbs. Fred

Front runners came in. I'll weigh them Sunday 6/27 afternooon when I return from Champagne,Il. Finally will get the opportunity to mount them on NEW Weld Pro-Stars I received for Xmas 2 years ago!!! Man am I behind. Fred

If I'm correct, I think they are 10 lbs each. As soon as they arrive, I'll weigh them and give you an exact weight . Hopefully, I'll have them by friday. Fred

Go with the Mallory 110 or 140. Quietest pump I know of. Tho a little pricey.

Ok. Purchased my Goodyear Front Runners. Got them for $278 delivered Free shipping and an extra $15 discount from Street Side Auto in Kansas City. I cannot find a better deal anywhere. 26 x 4.5-15's Finally!!!

How's everyone doing? Haven't been here in a few years. Lot's of life events in the last several years have kept me fairly busy. Still don't have much time but I'm trying. Got a question. What size front runners are you guys running on your Monte's? 26 x 4.5? Wanted to get a solid idea. Don't want to be trying out different sizes as these small guys are not cheap anymore. Thanks, Fred

For those who are familiar with the powerglide tranny's... 1. Did ALL powerglides from factory come with a kickdown linkage? 2. Did powerglides come with a vacuum module? My questions are related to a 1961 powerglide from a '61 Impala . It was hooked up to a I6 in that vehicle. I know these questions do not pertain to the Monte. Just some general questions before I plan on doing something for a friend. It's been a LONG time since I have visited the website. I see alot of the same old names here. How is everyone doing? Thanks in advance. Fred

Running on 6 or 7 cylinders usually means, you need to get new spark plugs and/or sparkplug wires. If your running the car in low 2 and winding the motor out trying to maintain a high speed (beyond 45 mph) your over reving your engine!Low 1 is usually good to 15-25mph, low 2 is usually to 45mph. Different situation if your running a racing tranny. If you leave the car in drive(D) you can't get it into drive(D)? REally sounds like you have a linkage adjustment problem. Fred

I think what your saying is you have 1 gear(low) and it works. 2 gear(low 2) and it works. But when putting it in drive it doesn't engage? If that's the problem, look at your linkage with someone shifting the gears(in park, engine off). See if the linkage is engaging drive(D). If not, you may have to adjust the linkage or replace it(may be worn out). Hope this helps. Fred

Remove the cover from the front of the tranny and check if it's not from your front seal. That one is a PITA to do. Have to remove the tranny to replace it. Fred

Dave, Short shaft for TB400. Fred

Diff housing cracked during a launch, means either the caps got loose or ring gear shattered or pinion broke internally. Sounds like you need a new or used rear end and all new parts intenally. 12-bolt or 10-bolt. If 10-bolt? Now is a good time to replace with a 12-bolt rearend. Keep us posted. Seen many rears explode at the track. It happens. Fred

If the rearend housing broke....you need to find a used replacement rearend. that is the first time I ever heard of a housing breaking unless it was raced. Tell us more where it broke. Axle tube to differential housing? Did it break or slip out of the differential housing? 10-bolt or 12-bolt? My curiosity has the best of me right now?

Kevin, Leave the driveshaft for the last thing to hookup after you get everything together. Then, insert the yoke into tranny and measure the length from center of u-joint to center of u-joint at rearend. That will give you the length for the driveshaft. Measure the driveshaft you have and see if it's the same. If not, shorten the one you have or if a longer one is needed, then buy one. Fred

George, Save yourself the hassle, take it or call the NAPA guys and see if they can install the new one in. If not try your local mechanic and have him do it. Make sure you tape the ends together until you're just about to install it. I've installed new ones myself in the garage and it's a PITA. You can do it. Here's an easy way. Need a bench vise. Get one socket that is smaller in diameter thatn the cap. Insert it in 1 end. Get another socket that is bigger and rest it on the other end face of driveshaft yoke area so that the cap will slide into the socket when you squeeze the entire assembly in the vise. Open the vise and remove the bigger socket with the cap inside.now put the small socket into the end where cap came out and put the big socket on the other em\nd and repeat the procedure. Remove the u-joint from in between the yokes and Reverse this procedure to install the new one. This procedure works but you can bend the yokes together, while squeezing them in the vise. Have had that happen. That's why I just go to the local NAPA guys and have them do it for me. Fred

How about a magnet on a stick? Or the flexable claw. If it went that far down. Well, it will be one thouroghly boiled/clean bolt the next time you rebuild the engine. I will never travel throughout the engine block. I don't think it will hurt anything. It may at some point come back up the passage and find it's way to the waterneck(highly doubtfull). Flip the car over and hope it comes out. Or worst case senario, pull the engine out , flip it over , bolt falls out, reinstall engine. Fred

17ft. 2in. ------------------ superstk's71MonteCarlo

I find that finding out who's who is asking questions of other car enthusiasts when you go to local car shows. Or local meets. Allot of car buffs have many opinions. It is the best way to find small shops that would otherwise be unknown. Also, you find out who NOT to go to. Saves allot of time and searching. Fred

Congratulations Lloyd! Now you can sand away at your forum duties. May I be the first to ask (since you are the Auto Body Repair Guy)to come to Chicago this spring and finish the details on my Monte? LOL Fred

In my fist setup I attached the factory tach to the MSD using their adapters and my factory tach ran slow or sometimes it would run backwards when stomping then go forwards. I then purchased a aftermarket autogage tach with direct hookup to MSD 6AL box lead and new tach works great. I determined that the factory tach is bad. Remember that the factory tach is 30+ yrs old.