JUBAL

These are brand new primered fender skirts. Currently $370 at JEGS if they can get them. $250 plus $20 shipping to the lower 48 states. E-mail me at oldjubal@hotmail.com. Jerry in Virginia.

No one even lists the stock exhaust pipe replacements. NAPA does not; Walker does not make them; Dynomax made them at one time but no more. I can have them made but they do not get all of the bends correct. Yes, 2.5 at the resonators is what I was referring to.

Does anyone know a source for the stock size (2.5") and bends of a big block Chevelle or MC using the chrome stock tips? No one lists them except aftermarket and they don't have the correct bends from what I see. Thanks.

My M.C. was overheating at stop lights. Called radiator shop and he gave me good advice. He said if it gets hot at the light, but cools off going down the road, you have a bad clutch on the fan. The usual test is to spin it and if it stops you think it is OK. It is not. He told me to pull it and if there is oil on the front of the clutch it is bad. It was. A new one made all the difference, and you could tell it with the hood open. I like the fan clutch over a flex fan, as I had to make a decision and chose to go with GM's design and it works. Plus a chance to clean up the fan and paint it, which I had not done.

Dan, I'm sorry but I cannot figure out how to get my messages. Nor can I find instructions. I assume you got my messages and it says I have two replies, but for the life of me I cannot view them. Jerry

Thanks. Will do.

For years I've had one of the four spoke optional steering wheels hanging in my garage, waiting for the Chevelle I was planning to do. Having spent many thousands on the Monte Carlo, I thought it would look nice in the car. Pulled the old standard wheel and went to install it, but the horn actuator on the stock wheel had a lead wire and I did not have the parts to install the optional steering wheel. What do I need to convert mine so I can use the four spoke wheel and do you know where I can get the parts? I had no idea that it would be different. My first muscle car, a 71 SS Chevelle had this steering wheel and I really want to use it. Thanks for your help.

I bought mine from Year One. It sagged in the middle front for some reason but with two additional tab buttons I added two holes in the middle of the front of the hood and the problem was solved. Not correct but better than a sagging insulation.

Thanks.

In the excitement to get my hood insulation in when it arrived yesterday, I installed it using the square tabs. After I got through I looked in the box and there were the round ones, like the ones I pulled out months ago. Which are correct for a 72? Round? Both? Thanks in advance for the answer.

Thanks. Thirty years ago I used gloss black when it did not matter to me. Things like that matter more now.

I'm putting my '72 back together now, fresh from the painter. I'm not replacing my lower trim yet and want to clean up the trim. Is the black gloss or semi-gloss? On the back panel that goes across the tail and also the chrome above the tail lights. Gloss or semi-gloss? I'm trying to do it now so any immediate response is welcomed. Thanks in advance.

Thanks. The $400 price from Summit/PUI was for both front and back covers.

I see that Summit sells PUI seat covers for my 72 dark saddle bench seat car for about $400. Cheaper than OPG's covers. Any advice on quality or a place for a better price and product? Thanks a lot.

Thanks. I'm trying to avoid pulling out the fender and by myself my hand to way too big to get in there. I'm hoping to figure out if some other way will work, but it may come down to doing it that way.

I was of course able to get to the front trim clip and remove the nut. But I'm guessing unless one has access to the fender off the car you can't get to the back nut. So what is the trick to removing and replacing the trim without removing the fender, which I am not going to do? I have the trim off but the rear rusted trim clip with the rusted off spring remains in place. Do I grind that off and use a different type of clip, like the ones that go on the very bottom trim from fender to fender? Thanks in advance for your help.

Phosphate transfer to metal is essentially Parkerizing. I do gun barrels for myself, so it is not something that is hard to do with Parkerizing solution, a tank big enough, a heat source capable of 160 degrees, and a bead/sand blaster to prepare the metal. The only problem I can see is getting the accurate color GM used which I don't have a clue what that was. But military Parkerizing can be various shades of grey and can even be black and I imagine that is what the hinges were from the factory. Even though I could do mine myself, for the work involved in a driver, I think I'll spray. If you can find a shop that parkerizes gun parts, they could do it if they would. I see Dan found a plating shop to do his. Again, thank everyone for the help.

Dan, I see you are an IBEW Brother. Forty-four year member here. Jerry